Neopan 400 and XTOL 1:1???

Sorry to ask this question. I know the answer is here but I can't find it.
Developing Neopan 400 in XTOL 1:1...how long? The data sheet for Neopan 400 says straight XTOL at 68deg. for 6.25min. The XTOL data sheet says 1:1 for 9.75 mins.
I had a pro look at some of my negatives and he immediately said they were underdeveloped. The lettering in the borders is still mid gray. He said that the lettering should be charcoal or black.
That is one of the reasons I have had so much trouble with contrast and flat negatives.
I have been using 9.75 min. in a small hand tank.

I do about 10 mins at room temp, which for my darkroom is about 75F.

The ULTIMATE source for Xtol ???

Uh, Kodak.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j109/j109.pdf

EVERYTHING THERE IS TO KNOW about everything.

BTW, 9.75 minutes expects agitation every 30 seconds. If you agitate every minute, you need to add about 20% to the time.

If 9.75 is too flat, just develop the Neopan longer. If the 400 time is flat, use the 800 development time.
(don't change the exposure)

Don't expect dazzling whites from this combination.

df and I have been having on going conversations about Neopan 400, especially in Xtol. Personally I like the combination, mainly because I've been using it for years now and am used to it. But during our talks it seems maybe HC-110 might be a better developer for ME anyway. So I'm in the process of trying that combination.

Anyway, Xtol 1:1 and Neopan is a great combo, but like df said, the shoulder of Neopan doesn't allow highlights to blow out (or sing!), especially in Xtol. Some people will treasure this feature. I develop in Xtol 1:1 for 9.5 minutes at 70 degrees.

The lettering in the borders is still mid gray. He said that the lettering should be charcoal or black.

Click to expand...

I wouldn't judge the exposure or development of a negative based on the edge numbers, unless you are planning to print the edge numbers. Judge by how the negative prints.

I'm one of the ones that treasures the Neopan shoulder during the harsh Texas summers.

stradibarrius said:

...That is one of the reasons I have had so much trouble with contrast and flat negatives.
I have been using 9.75 min. in a small hand tank.

Click to expand...

First, I always use the Kodak info as the reference point I adjust from.

This gives me the ability to use Kodak's data to adjust for temperature differences. (My darkroom will swing from 65 to 75 degrees and take the chemical temps with it.)

Second, if you think your negatives are flat and you are finding them hard to print, by all means add more development time.

Third, when I add time I generally move up in Kodak's increments, i.e. from 400's times (N) to 800's (N+1) or 1600's (N+2). This simply keeps me from rewriting my own chart.

N+1 and N+2 times are my "norms".

I just slipped into my darkroom and placed a couple of rolls of NP400 on the light box.

All of the rebates and rebate markings are sort of grey, not solid black.

Under a loupe you'll notice that they are an electronic lettering type of image.

My negatives are quite good, so I don't think the grey(ish) colouring of your rebate markings is a good guide with this film.

The times given by Fuji are standard reference times and basically where you should start from. Without getting into the technical stuff too much, it appears your negatives are not quite contrasty enough for you.

Fine, well develop a bit longer and you will see differences immediately.

How much longer, well it's a bit like the length of a string. However you could try 11' first, if that doesn't work try 12'30", if you are still not happy then 15'.

Don't change anything else in your procedure, otherwise you will not know what has caused any changes.

I myself (generally) develop NP400 in D76 1+1 for 12'45" at 20ºC. I am using a diffused enlarger and this suits my work regime and cameras.

Xtol is a slightly stronger developer than D76 but I don't think overall, it is that much different.

Mick.

My standard agitation is constant for first 30 and the 5 sec each 30 sec interval. I am going to shoot a roll today and process it at 800/N=1 and see how that works. My Kodak XTOL chart shows 11.5 min. at 68 deg.
I also have just received a bottle of HC-110. I have never used HC-110 before so I am interested to see how it works with Neopan 400.

1. Don't ever judge your negative quality by how prominent the edge markings are. What's important is in the area of the actual exposure.

2. If you want more contrast in your negatives, develop them longer.

3. Print your negs often to fully understand the effect your changes have. Contact prints are fine.

Keep trying. Xtol will work. HC-110 will work. It depends a bit on what you're trying to achieve. You can usually fine tune either developer to make it do what you want it to do. If you're used to Xtol, keep trying with it for a while before you switch to HC-110. That will help you make deliberate changes where you are in control of the changes made.

- Thomas