Negatives for cyanotypes

drgoose · Nov 24, 2014

I am starting to play with cyanotypes and I am trying to figure out what the negatives should look like. As far as I understand I need low contrast negatives which should be overexposed and underdeveloped but my question is how much of each, I normally shoot my film at 1/2 box speed ans develop it with the published times. is a good starting point to shoot it with 2 stops overexposure and say 75% of standard developing?

jeff.blackwell · Nov 24, 2014

There are a couple methods. One is to use digital negatives, search for Burkholder's book on the subject. The second method is to go into the darkroom and use ortho paper, developing an interpositive then an enlarged negative. You'll need to read up on using a Stoffer step wedge to gauge contrast. I typically used Dektol diluted to 1:32 for the traditional darkroom method. In the end, unless you want your negatives to ONLY be good for cyanotypes and similar alternative processes, you'll want to shoot them as you normally do and then generate a second negative that is appropriate for cyanotypes.

drgoose · Nov 24, 2014

I am shooting 4x5 and 8x10 so i dont need internegatives. I want to print the in camera negatives.

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drgoose · Nov 24, 2014

I am planning on shooting two sheets of the same scene, one expose and developed for silver gelatin snd one dxposed and developed for cyanotypes

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Rick A · Nov 24, 2014

http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/iron-based-printing

Scroll down to the section on requirements for suitable negatives.

BAC1967 · Nov 24, 2014

I created cyanotypes by semi-stand developing color negative film with Rodinal. Specifically I shot Kodak Gold 200 film expired August 2001 at 1/2 the box speed. Developed in Rodinal 1-100 for 1 hour with 3 inversions after 30 minutes. This is what I got after reversing a scan of the negative. The negatives did look quite dark.

Michael W · Nov 24, 2014

In my experience thinner negs work best.

Negatives for cyanotypes

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