Negative to digital negative to silver gelatin.

[jmoche]

I have a huge collection of 35mm negatives, most of which are damaged in one way or another. They've all been scanned, and I'm able to "fix" them in Photoshop. While I can make a digital print, I thought it would be more authentic to create a digital negative and then contact print onto silver gelatin paper. After much experimentation and frustration with the Easy Digital Negatives website, I am finally able to create digital negatives that are properly curved for silver gelatin. And, I have managed to print photos that very closely match those that were originally printed by me 50 years ago. But... only sometimes. For every print that looks as it should, there are 9 that have serious contrast issues. Even when printed at contrast 0 on Ilford MG paper, they are very contrasty, almost litho in appearance. Keep in mind that two different negatives look fine on the screen, and when printed they both appear to have the same range of light and dark tones. But when printed onto photographic paper, one will look great and the second goes straight into the trash. Anyone else out there doing this? Are you having the same issues? I'm using an Epson 3880, ABW mode, and printing the diginegs on Pictorico OHP. Thanks! I've also tried an Epson 8550 and a cheaper alternative to the Pictorico. If there are suggestions out there, I'll give this another shot. Thanks!

 

[Lachlan Young]

This may or may not be relevant to the problem you are dealing with, but it's worth considering that you may be trying to deliver too high a density range for your requirements - you possibly won't need to print to the full scale of density that your printer can deliver. What are the luminosity numbers of the scales of the 'good' negs and the 'bad' negs?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Are you using an all black inkset?

 

[jmoche]

Are you using an all black inkset?

I'm using the Epson 3880 ABW setting.

 

[jmoche]

This may or may not be relevant to the problem you are dealing with, but it's worth considering that you may be trying to deliver too high a density range for your requirements - you possibly won't need to print to the full scale of density that your printer can deliver. What are the luminosity numbers of the scales of the 'good' negs and the 'bad' negs?

I don't actually understand your question. I can say that after working on them in PS, all of the images look similar with respect to highlights/shadows/brightness/contrast, and so do the digital negatives,

 

[Craig75]

I'd say first step is to print curve corrected stepwedge with each image.

If the wedge is correct but image is wrong then there is something wrong with the image.

If wedge is wrong and image is wrong then I'd think its either image has not had correct curve applied or printer is reverting back to some setting it shouldn't be on.

Obviously it shouldn't be doing what you describe and in my world it can only be wrong curve applied or wrong printer profile.

 

[jeffreyg]

I have a book that I haven't referred to in some time but if you can find a copy it might be helpful. (from 1999) " Making Digital Negatives for Contact Printing" by Dan Burkholder. I make digital enlarged negatives from scanned film for platinum/palladium printing and they work fine. Some tweaking from what appears on the monitor and digital positive print is necessary for some but overall it works very well.. Make and save your own curve at least for a starting point. I also use a 3880 and Pictorico Ultra Premium and set the paper type to "luster".

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

http://www.sculptureandphotography.com/