Hi APUG,
I've basically boiled my dev and cooked my film with that for a couple of minutes and fixed it directly from dev to fix without stop bath or water in between.
Thank you.
Thanks. It just seemed to me that boiling a developer then using it for film developing( temp might be important )might have some relevance to what you describe as the staining effect outcome. I just thought I'd ask the question to speed things alongWell it's not quite the point of what I'm asking but I don't mind. Boiled as in boiled to boiling point and developed for about 3 minutes then fixed without stop bath.
It's more the staining effect that I want to know about.
It would be neat to see a scan...
If it's useful I haven't stopped for 10 years and never noticed any staining. I tend to develop at room temp. Perhaps an accounting of the chemistry would be helpful. I believe that generally speaking the stain is an effect of silver reduction, which I suppose can be created with any strong developer under the right conditions. So, it sounds like severe silver reduction in those areas caused by temperature, chemical oxidation, or some such thing.
A scan of a print or???
Just out of interest does any photographic chemist here know what effect boiling developer has on its abilty to do the job it is designed for? It just seems incredible that boiling developer and presumably then using it at a very high temp to develop film only has a reticulation effect and then only that because the fixer is used at ambient temperature
Does this mean that we can boil developer, use it on film at very high temperature and then fix at an equally high temperature there is no effect on the film compared to developer and fix at say 20C?
pentaxuser
Thanks for that. 60C is hot but still 40c below boiling point. I thought you had said that you boiled the developer (100C) for a period( seconds, mins?) then developed film in the boiled developer( seconds, minutes after it had boiled)?I'm obviously no chemist but I regularly boil my lith developer to 60c to speed it up. it does lead to an increase in warm tones in the highlights, which I suspect is similar to what's happened to my film
^^
This particular roll of film was foma 400 developed in d76 which was boiled to boiling point.
Having printed a few of the frames today, I'd have to say that not adding images to this thread does not do it justice.
The results came out unpredictably good, something which could not be seen from contact sheets. Very grainy prints probably due to the amount of base fog, it rather adds to the surrealism feel of the thing.
All good!
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