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Need the width of a 4x10 splitter? board

mark

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I need the dimensions of the board that slides in the groove, in the film back of some older 8x10 cameras. I want to make one tomorrow. I can't figure out how to make the measurements.
 

JBrunner

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Hi Mark,

The 4x10 masking board for my Kodak 2D measures exactly 10" long over all by 4 1/8" wide.

It is 1/4 inch thick.

On one of the long ends there is a lip that extends into the board
1/16 x1/16" thick.

The other end has a lip that extends 1/4" into the board that is 1/8" at the base but has a 1/8 inch taper to an edge on the back (flat side)

Hope this makes some sense.

Best,

Jason
 

JBrunner

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I just had a brilliant idea. Its not quite an edge, but like half a bevel into the 1/8"


Viola!!!!
 

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photomc

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Mark, Jason is right on with his discreption....I had the same questions when I made mine last fall. Be advised that the back all seem to be slightly different size. The first one I made missed the depth of the groove, and it would not hold. Took a small 6 in ruler to seat in the groove and took measurements. If you can find the link here, you will see I use the Homer method of cut twice measure once - Doh!! BTW, I used the hobbie board from a local craft store to make mine with, worked perfect after a coat of flat black paint. Good luck!!
 

glbeas

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Now you've got me curious. What are these splitter boards and how are they used? I presume this is a different animal from a cutaway darkslide.
 
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mark

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Thanks jason. That is a perfect description.

Mike. I am becoming well aware of the differences in measurements. My lens boards are 1/8 inch larger than the 6x6 inch measurement people gave me.
 

photomc

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glbeas said:
Now you've got me curious. What are these splitter boards and how are they used? I presume this is a different animal from a cutaway darkslide.
Click to expand...

You are correct, just another way to change the format. From what I have learned, some like Deardorff, came with these boards (and other size). When you remove the back, and look at the inside of the back you will find that there is a slit/groove along each side - some even have a spring to help keep the splitter in place. The board is just cut to cover up the lower +/- 4 inches, put the back in place and then frame/focus and insert film holder. There was another thread were several people gave a step by step. Will see if I can find it and add the link.
 

JBrunner

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One cool idea, (that I have to credit Jim Galli for), is to make a lens board with the hole set to the top half for best coverage, after you shoot the top half, you flip the lensboard for max coverage on the bottom half.
 

Capocheny

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Mark,

Wouldn't the use of a cut-away darkslide be easier (and less expensive) than fashioning one of these splitter-boards?

Or, is there a huge difference in the functionality of what you're proposing and that of a cut-away darkslide?

Cheers
 

photomc

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Capocheny said:
Mark,

Wouldn't the use of a cut-away darkslide be easier (and less expensive) than fashioning one of these splitter-boards?

Or, is there a huge difference in the functionality of what you're proposing and that of a cut-away darkslide?

Cheers
Click to expand...
Not at all, the wood cost less than a $2 USD and it takes less than 10 min. to cut on a table saw. As to being easier...well that would depend on the person...with the splitter board you don't have to worry about the pulling the split darkslide out, and replacing with the full darkslide before composing the next shot.

Guess it is just a matter of which way one like/dislikes the flow. Both work equally well and the end result is the same. Some might say why bother with eitherl and just use a 4x10 camera.

 

JBrunner

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One advantage that the old grooved backs have, is that I also have splitter boards that go 5x8.
 
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