NEED LIQUID DEVELOPER FOR ROAD TRIP

StoneNYC · Feb 15, 2013

Patrick Robert James said:
Yes. Sometimes I have used a hair dryer since I was leaving early in the morning and didn't want to wait for the negs to dry. Don't forget to take some string and some clips of some sort to hang your film. If you don't want to cut the film right away you can store it safely in an empty bulk roll tin. In fact since you are traveling light that might be the best way to go so the negs don't get damaged. Sleeve them when you get back home.

The only chemicals you need are developer, TF-4 fix and Edwal LFN. Skip the stop bath and wash aid (if you use TF-4). Keep life simple.

Are there any drawbacks to using TF-4? Why doesn't everyone use it and save steps?

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

markbarendt · Feb 15, 2013

StoneNYC said:
Are there any drawbacks to using TF-4? Why doesn't everyone use it and save steps?

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

Because TF-5 is even better.

StoneNYC · Feb 15, 2013

markbarendt said:
Because TF-5 is even better.

Not helpful since I don't know about either of those... Lol

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

markbarendt · Feb 15, 2013

Both are excellent Stone and share many qualities. Some say TF-4 lasts better, some believe that being a bit acidic it works better with certain developers. I like TF-5 better because I believe there s less smell and find no fault with longevity or action in my work.

markbarendt · Feb 15, 2013

My bad!

Thomas Bertilsson · Feb 15, 2013

cjbecker said:
Hc110 would be another choice. Or just buy the 1L bags of d76 and whenever you need to soup some film just mix one of the 1L bags and roll with it until its gone.

Good recommendation. From what I understand HC-110 was designed to be a liquid version of D76, so if that's what you normally use, HC-110 would be perfect. It's super concentrated, easy to mix, and lasts forever, even in high temperatures. The developer part is easy. The fixer would be more problematic in my opinion, since you need a concentrate that takes up more volume than film developer.

StoneNYC · Feb 15, 2013

Thomas Bertilsson said:
Good recommendation. From what I understand HC-110 was designed to be a liquid version of D76, so if that's what you normally use, HC-110 would be perfect. It's super concentrated, easy to mix, and lasts forever, even in high temperatures. The developer part is easy. The fixer would be more problematic in my opinion, since you need a concentrate that takes up more volume than film developer.

Wait is this true? Are they basically the same developer?

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

Thomas Bertilsson · Feb 15, 2013

Michael R 1974 said:
They are not the same developer and the formulation is completely different. But the differences in working characteristics are normally relatively small.

Thank you, Michael. That is what I meant to say. Man, it isn't so much what we do say, but what we leave out in assumption.

removed account4 · Feb 15, 2013

Thomas Bertilsson said:
Good recommendation. From what I understand HC-110 was designed to be a liquid version of D76, so if that's what you normally use, HC-110 would be perfect. It's super concentrated, easy to mix, and lasts forever, even in high temperatures. The developer part is easy. The fixer would be more problematic in my opinion, since you need a concentrate that takes up more volume than film developer.

fixer is ez
it is just a ovaltine jar with old fashioned hypo and a tablespoon ...

people always over complicate everything it is easy to keep things simple

StoneNYC · Feb 15, 2013

jnanian said:
fixer is ez
it is just a ovaltine jar with old fashioned hypo and a tablespoon ...

people always over complicate everything it is easy to keep things simple

What's in ovaltine that helps fix?

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

removed account4 · Feb 15, 2013

StoneNYC said:
What's in ovaltine that helps fix?

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

... its just a container for dry sodium thiosulfate in so you don't have to bring a 50lb bag with you on the road.

StoneNYC · Feb 15, 2013

jnanian said:
... its just a container for dry sodium thiosulfate in so you don't have to bring a 50lb bag with you on the road.

Oh lol! Thanks

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

mr rusty · Feb 15, 2013

I don't think you can get it in US, otherwise Ilford LC29 - the developer I use all the time. Mixes at 1:19 or 1:29.

Harry Lime · Feb 15, 2013

I would pass on Rodinal if you are shooting HP5+. Too grainy and Rodinal is not the best developer for medium speed films or push processing.

If you are renting a car, I would just mix up a some D76 and fixer using gallon jugs of water and throw them in the trunk. Be sure to label them as "Film Developer - Do Not Consume"

HC110 was supposedly developed for photo journalists developing their rolls in hotel rooms around the world. It is a thick syrup and a bottle will develop a lot of film.

You'll get about 15 rolls out of a 1L bottle of DD-X.

Ilford ID-11 (D76) comes in powder form to mix 1 liter. It's easy enough to buy a bottle of water and mix up a batch to develop a few rolls at a time. A few packs of ID-11 are also a lot easier to transport than bottles of DD-X.

I've developed a lot of film in hotel bathrooms. Usually I'll wait until I accumulate 10-15 rolls and then use up a full liter of something like ID-11 and fixer. That way there is nothing to store. If I do need to store mixed chemicals I stash them in my locked suitcase. Obviously you could put them in your car if that is how you are traveling.

MattKing · Feb 15, 2013

If you are careful, one 16 ounce (~480ml) bottle of HC-110 will develop 80 rolls.

This is assuming you are using the North American version.

Fixer is more of a problem, but then again "garden variety" powder fixer may be one of the easier chemicals to find.

You could probably source chemistry ahead of time and then mail it to yourself "General Delivery".

mexipike · Feb 15, 2013

When I used to develop in hotel rooms I always used HC110. I really liked it's results with HP5. I like the unpublished dilution H 1:64 and a semi stand development system. I used to get really great results at around ISO 1250. The negatives are grainy but crazy sharp (mostly accutance) and with a really beautiful tonal range. Great combo!

mgb74 · Feb 15, 2013

Where are the old Kodak Tri Chem packs when you need them!

I don't see chemicals so much the issue as whether the film will be dry enough (assuming you process late at night) to put in negative holders (in the AM). May depend on the indoor humidity level.

StoneNYC · Feb 15, 2013

mgb74 said:
Where are the old Kodak Tri Chem packs when you need them!

I don't see chemicals so much the issue as whether the film will be dry enough (assuming you process late at night) to put in negative holders (in the AM). May depend on the indoor humidity level.

Most hotel rooms I've been on have a hair dryer... So I'm sure drying (with care) won't be an issue

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

Mainecoonmaniac · Feb 15, 2013

I'm a big fan of HC-110. You can develop 1 roll at dilution B with only 1/4 of an ounce. More at high dilutions. My only qualm is you have to shoot at a slightly lower ASA. I've also used it for stand development at 1:100. The developer is very versatile.

PKM-25 · Feb 15, 2013

Without question HC-110. But it is rather thick so my method of dealing with that and not wasting concentrate is as follows:

I would get a small 50ML graduate and two 1L graduates. I pour the measured syrupy HC-110 into the 50ML graduate, then pour the correct amount of tempered water into one of the 1L graduates. I then take the empty 1L graduate and pour a couple ounces of the tempered water to pour the HC-110 concentrate into so it starts to dissolve right away and is not stuck at the bottom. I then take the rest of the water in the 1L graduate and keep pouring it into the 50ML graduate that still has some residual concentrate into it until I have basically cleaned out the small graduate and then pour the remaining water into the developer graduate...

Basically I use HC-110 at dilution B which is 1+31 and it lasts a long time and the negs come out really great. It has pretty much replaced D76 for me.

markbarendt · Feb 15, 2013

Harry Lime good comment on the capacity.

I do reuse my DD-X to extend the capacity, my 35mm tank holds 250ml so at 1+4 a bottle gets me 20 rolls without reuse. I've gone as far as 4 total rolls per 250ml batch, adding 10% extra time for each successive run. The OP would only need to re-use 1 extra run for each batch to do his 40 planned rolls. Just need a small juice bottle to store it over night or develop every other day.

hdeyong · Feb 16, 2013

In Canada, we drive a PT Cruiser, which has a lot of space to carry stuff, and being pretty experienced at this, have learned to pack efficiently. (We're house-sitters and travel around North America, Europe, the UK, etc, on a fairly regular basis). The idea of carrying an extra 1 litre bottle or two doesn't bother me, there's room for it. My first concern is making sure the film is processed and fixed properly, and washed correctly. It would be a luxury to use familiar materials, but the idea of mixing up powdered chemicals leaves me a little cold. For this trip, I'll happily settle for concentrates, some of which are probably just as good as D-76, anyway.
If, as Thomas says, HC-110 has the same characteristics and stores well, that's probably the answer. The best of both worlds, ease of portability and use, and the 'look' of the negatives I'm used to.

hdeyong · Feb 16, 2013

Thanks, PKM-25. I already have both of those graduates, and like I said, room in the car is no real problem, so I'll take them along and use your method to mix it up.
Rodinal looked like getting the nod, but if HC-110 gives the same characteristics as D-76, that's what I'm going with.

John Shriver · Feb 16, 2013

Yes, HC-110 is much more like D-76. You might even consider making the "stock solution", if the trip is only 40 days, that's under it's lifetime. Makes measuring a lot easier. Although the children's medicine dosing syringe method or measuring syrup works well.

Note that some places in the US and Canada have awfully hard mineralized water, so pick up a gallon of distilled water periodically, and use it for final washing and the Photo-Flo rinse, or you'll get horrible crud on your negatives.

jim appleyard · Feb 16, 2013

hdeyong said:
....Rodinal looked like getting the nod, but if HC-110 gives the same characteristics as D-76, that's what I'm going with.

Maybe both? It's only one extra bottle and both of them will easlily last for the entire trip and then keep going at home. They are very different devs, each giving their own characteristics to film.

NEED LIQUID DEVELOPER FOR ROAD TRIP

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