NEED LIQUID DEVELOPER FOR ROAD TRIP

hdeyong · Feb 14, 2013

In a couple of months, my wife and I will be on a 40 day road trip, doing a 'lap' of North America through the US and Canada. I'm planning on shooting about 40 rolls, and want to develop it as I go along. Having 40 rolls to do when I get back is bad enough, but then I have to fly back to France, which makes it worse. Besides, there's something adventurous about souping film in a motel bathroom.
I generally use D-76, but I'd need to make up and carry 10 litres, which I don't want to do. It will be HP5+, mostly at 200, a little bit at 800.
What's a good all round concentrate liquid developer for a situation like this?

nicholai · Feb 14, 2013

I'd bring Rodinal (R09) - its really concentrated, usually 1:50, but also 1:100 or 1:25, depending on whatever.
Check out the massive dev chart:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=HP5&Developer=Rodinal&mdc=Search

Jesper · Feb 14, 2013

Any highly concentrated one-shot developer would be fine.
I would use R09 as well.

markbarendt · Feb 14, 2013

I'd go with something real easy to mix like DD-X (1+4).

Don't know where you are flying into but you will probably need to find a store that will have what you want on the shelf when you arrive.

removed account4 · Feb 14, 2013

sprint developer ? its easy to use, and mixes 1:9
or caffenol c, the ingredients are available at your local grocery store
and its as easy as 8 oz. water + 4 tsp. instant coffee + 2 tsp. washing soda + 1/4 tsp vit c.
i haven't used salt water to stabliize film instead of fixer but from all reports
you just need a super saturated salt solution and it takes a few days ...
and when you return home you can wash and refix them.
no need to take any photochemistry with you on your trip

cjbecker · Feb 14, 2013

Hc110 would be another choice. Or just buy the 1L bags of d76 and whenever you need to soup some film just mix one of the 1L bags and roll with it until its gone.

rwreich · Feb 14, 2013

You're pretty brave to travel around to different hotels with chemicals souping in the bathroom! I'd be nervous that someone in housekeeping would report me for suspected Meth-lab activity. I know it would be a challenge to develop 40 rolls when you get back, but I wouldn't want to have to keep up with the negatives, chemicals, & gear in a car full of travel bags. It sounds as though you'll be spending most of the trip in the bathroom, anyway;-)

I'm sorry, I do not intend to be rude - I wish you the best on your travels!

removed-user-1 · Feb 14, 2013

If I was going to do this and wanted a liquid developer, I'd use Rodinal. I'd carry a bottle of TF-4 fixer as well - this cuts down on the other chemistry somewhat by eliminating stop bath and hypo-clear. But, caffenol is not a bad idea, the easy-to-find ingredients aren't likely to set off any false alarms with hotel staff. Film developing equipment might seem a little "funny-looking" to the uninitiated, so I would keep it in my luggage when not in use, just to avoid any unexpected conversations with the local authorities.

Hate to sound all paranoid about it. :/

removed account4 · Feb 14, 2013

rthomas said:
If I was going to do this and wanted a liquid developer, I'd use Rodinal. I'd carry a bottle of TF-4 fixer as well - this cuts down on the other chemistry somewhat by eliminating stop bath and hypo-clear. But, caffenol is not a bad idea, the easy-to-find ingredients aren't likely to set off any false alarms with hotel staff. Film developing equipment might seem a little "funny-looking" to the uninitiated, so I would keep it in my luggage when not in use, just to avoid any unexpected conversations with the local authorities.

Hate to sound all paranoid about it. :/

i'd label all your stuff " photographic film developer " " "photography film developing tank " " photography fixer"

whenever i send sumatranol kits to people i label the heck out of the ingredients and packaging
these days people have wild imaginations. and seeing they are finding meth labs in golf course porta pottys
it wouldn't be out of the ordinary for someone who has no clue to ... have no clue

presspass · Feb 14, 2013

Another vote for DD-X. It works wonderfully with HP5+ at 400; I've never tried it at 200 but there are times on the Ilford website for 800. It is available in the U.S., especially in a camera shop near a college that has a photo or art curriculum. Good luck.

jim appleyard · Feb 14, 2013

...if you like the look of Caffenol...

Try it at home first. Actually, that goes with any dev.

David Lyga · Feb 14, 2013

What I would do (and this is measured in ml, not grams): 10 ml sodium sulfite, 1ml metol, 3ml HQ, 2ml sodium carbonate, mono (washing soda). Put all together in a liter size PET plastic bottle (Gatorade). Add about 750ml water. Cap bottle and shake vigorously for about one minute. Add water to make one liter. Don't worry about oxidation with the shaking because it won't happen. Store in PET plastic. If using one-shot, dilute enough 1+1 before use. If using as stock you will be surprised how long it lasts without replenishment if you give a little extra time after the first four rolls. Naturally, for the one shot you will have to either add marbles to the stock (a pain) or transfer to smaller bottles (glass or PET plastic).

If you want to be REALLY efficient, don't even mix up the whole liter. Take the time to measure (with a razor, just like a cocaine dealer!) the dry chemicals into maybe eight equal amounts for each chemical and then place each dry mixture into a small baggie (again, like a drug dealer) so that you use one baggie for each roll (or, 'fix', like a drug addict). - David Lyga

250swb · Feb 14, 2013

You are going to be carrying a lot of bottles of DD-X if you want to use it at the standard 1+4 dilution, although it is very flexible yet also very expensive. Perhaps better would be HC110 or Rodinal, both able to uprate or down rate the ISO depending on the results you want. Both of these are also able to withstand poor travelling conditions of hot and cold in half used bottles without going off.

Steve

eclarke · Feb 14, 2013

Another vote for the Rodinal..

EASmithV · Feb 14, 2013

i'd stick with rodinal or hc-110

John Bragg · Feb 14, 2013

Rodinal if you like it gritty or HC-110 for a smoother look and feel. Have a great trip anyhow.

Eric Rose · Feb 14, 2013

If you are coming to Calgary give me a shout. I have a darkroom you can use while you are here.

Patrick Robert James · Feb 14, 2013

I have done this a few times. I always use Rodinal, but I already use it. If you want to soften the graininess you can always add ascorbic acid or sodium sulfite. I haven't done this myself, but many have said it works. I believe there is an article about it on Unblinking Eye.

removed account4 · Feb 14, 2013

you could probably just bring 3 vitamin jars each with metol, sodium sulfite and borax ... and a teaspoon ...
its easy to make d23 and ozwald adams used and loved it ..

fra · Feb 14, 2013

And what about Pyrocat?

http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/

Standard dilution is 1:1:100, plus very easy to get within the US at many merchants. Actually I think you can get almost anything within the US, don't know how it is on Canada but I assume it's much easier than in Brazil where I live (btw, I'm now buying from Photographers Formular and they ship almost everything).

EDIT: corrected wrong statement on toxicity, it's lower than standard pyro developers but still toxic.

jim appleyard · Feb 14, 2013

fra said:
And what about Pyrocat?

http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/

It's non-toxic and standard dilution is 1:1:100, plus very easy to get within the US at many merchants. Actually I think you can get almost anything within the US, don't know how it is on Canada but I assume it's much easier than in Brazil where I live (btw, I'm now buying from Photographers Formular and they ship almost everything).

Non toxic???

fra · Feb 14, 2013

jim appleyard said:
Non toxic???

Oooops VERY SORRY, my bad.

lower toxicity is correct, not what I said.

hdeyong · Feb 15, 2013

Thanks folks. Some good ideas, but it looks like Rodinal is getting the most votes. I also like the ideas that it's one-shot and will stand being warm in a half full bottle.
Thanks a lot to Eric Rose. We'll be in Calgary for a couple of days, staying with my wife's brother, and I'll give you a call. By that time, I'll probably be sick of bathrooms.
I'm thinking to take a separate box, like maybe a cheap plastic toolbox, and put in a bottle of something like Rodinal, concentrated liquid fix, wash aid, stop bath, photo-flo, the tank and reels, thermometer and a few plastic bottles to hold working solutions while they're being used. Everything will be in factory labelled bottles. If it's a night to develop, I'll just grab the whole thing and haul it into the room and go to work. The next morning, the dried negs can be cut and stored in sheets.
Is this kind of what you did Patrick R James?

StoneNYC · Feb 15, 2013

David Lyga said:
What I would do (and this is measured in ml, not grams): 10 ml sodium sulfite, 1ml metol, 3ml HQ, 2ml sodium carbonate, mono (washing soda). Put all together in a liter size PET plastic bottle (Gatorade). Add about 750ml water. Cap bottle and shake vigorously for about one minute. Add water to make one liter. Don't worry about oxidation with the shaking because it won't happen. Store in PET plastic. If using one-shot, dilute enough 1+1 before use. If using as stock you will be surprised how long it lasts without replenishment if you give a little extra time after the first four rolls. Naturally, for the one shot you will have to either add marbles to the stock (a pain) or transfer to smaller bottles (glass or PET plastic).

If you want to be REALLY efficient, don't even mix up the whole liter. Take the time to measure (with a razor, just like a cocaine dealer!) the dry chemicals into maybe eight equal amounts for each chemical and then place each dry mixture into a small baggie (again, like a drug dealer) so that you use one baggie for each roll (or, 'fix', like a drug addict). - David Lyga

David, of all people ... Haha

Don't do this, at least if he used something labeled, anyone who would be suspicious would be able to google the name listed on the bottle and he wouldn't be arrested, if you are just carrying a bunch of empty non-branded bottles, you're sure to be suspicious and most likely have everything confiscated.. Lol

Another vote for Rodinal!

~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

Patrick Robert James · Feb 15, 2013

hdeyong said:
Thanks folks. Some good ideas, but it looks like Rodinal is getting the most votes. I also like the ideas that it's one-shot and will stand being warm in a half full bottle.
Thanks a lot to Eric Rose. We'll be in Calgary for a couple of days, staying with my wife's brother, and I'll give you a call. By that time, I'll probably be sick of bathrooms.
I'm thinking to take a separate box, like maybe a cheap plastic toolbox, and put in a bottle of something like Rodinal, concentrated liquid fix, wash aid, stop bath, photo-flo, the tank and reels, thermometer and a few plastic bottles to hold working solutions while they're being used. Everything will be in factory labelled bottles. If it's a night to develop, I'll just grab the whole thing and haul it into the room and go to work. The next morning, the dried negs can be cut and stored in sheets.
Is this kind of what you did Patrick R James?

Yes. Sometimes I have used a hair dryer since I was leaving early in the morning and didn't want to wait for the negs to dry. Don't forget to take some string and some clips of some sort to hang your film. If you don't want to cut the film right away you can store it safely in an empty bulk roll tin. In fact since you are traveling light that might be the best way to go so the negs don't get damaged. Sleeve them when you get back home.

The only chemicals you need are developer, TF-4 fix and Edwal LFN. Skip the stop bath and wash aid (if you use TF-4). Keep life simple.

NEED LIQUID DEVELOPER FOR ROAD TRIP

removed-user-1

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency