I fear that it really didn't get enough light to even produce a latent image
I have seen images around the net indicating people have successfully pushed Arista/Foma 400 to 3200.
When only looking at the Arista you might think "yeah, there's maybe some image here", but compared to HP5 you can see that truly nothing came out. These are same camera, same place, same settings, same lighting.
My best guess would Dilution B at 20 mints
If you have light tight darkroom you can try a test buy scarfing a strip of film, lower it into the HC 100 bit by bit every 5 mints for 6 strips and see where you can an image.
Hazarding a guess, metering probably comes into play. The people who successfully 'push' this film to 3200 may be taking meter readings for the shadows and then say they've metered at 3200
Yeah, so that's one of the reasons I'm now shelling out the cash for HP5+
It's interesting that two films of the same nominal speed are so different when pushing to this extent (assuming that they were metered identically)
several folks have previously posted that they find that the Foma Family gives them slightly less shadow detail, and they use a personal EI of 200.
There is no remedy for underexposure.Forget about (semi)stand entirely in this situation, it's about the worst technique that could be used. It won't push anything.
But that doesn't matter because from the look of your negative almost nothing was recorded on film. 20min in dilution A is quite a lot so I think you already got to the point where the highlight are at a somewhat reasonable level, and it's the best you'll get. Pushing does next to nothing on shadows, it's only a way to bring the highlights where we want them.
There is no remedy for underexposure.
The MDC lists Foma 400 (same as EDU) at 3200
While not suitable for darkroom printing, surprisingly thin negatives like yours can be recoverable via hybrid process. You didn't mention what you are going to do with them.
There is no remedy for underexposure.
I think this might be the real answer to why people are claiming it works to push.
I do have an LED enlarger head, so maybe I can decrease the power enough to eke out a little detail.
This film must be "thin" even in the best of cases.
The paper won't make any more contrast than it's inherently capable of, regardless of the light source or its power. Also, a bright source and a short exposure will do exactly the same as a dim source and longer exposure as long as you remain within the boundaries imposed by reciprocity failure. Scanning is your best bet to make the most of whatever detail you've got, especialy because you can easily at the same time suppress the very dense highlights.
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