Need help with power issue.

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TheTrailTog

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I moved into a new place a couple months ago and finally set the darkroom up and am printing for the first time today. The new place is a great old farmhouse a little more in the country. Printing this morning I'm realizing a slight issue though, the power isn't quite consistent. There is some "flickering", for lack of a better term, which means it's been hit or miss with my enlargements. Is there any sort of voltage regulator or anything like that I could plug in to keep things consistent? Unfortunately this is not my place and redoing the wiring is not a possibility. HELP :sad:

Aaron
 

Nicholas Lindan

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Flickering power is due to a loose connection. Dimming and brightening that lasts a second or more and is 'well behaved' is poor power regulation.

If the problem is house-wide you need to get the power company out to check for loose connections - the problem may be inside your house and you will need an electrician. A power regulator will not cure flickering.

If the problem is confined to the enlarger then it is probably a loose lamp, bad lamp socket, bad power cord, dodgy timer ...

Not fixing a loose connection is the prelude to a fire. The loose connection may only burn a lamp socket, but it could burn down the house if it is located in a wall.
 

Lee L

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You might want to check the wiring in any case. I rented an old farmhouse in Virginia that had aluminum wiring. Over time the difference in coefficients of expansion and contraction of aluminum and some connectors can cause poor connections. Aluminum will also oxidize and cause poor connections. You can check connections along the path from the breaker or fuse box to your darkroom. There is anti-corrosive paste that you can use to improve those connections and prevent future problems.

The farmhouse I rented had a new breaker box, and the DIY landlord had put 20 amp breakers on all circuits, including older long runs of 12 and 14 gauge aluminum circuits. In other words, the entire circuit was a "fuse" and the breakers were pointless. Check your wiring, and perhaps just drop a new 20 amp dedicated line to the darkroom if it's OK with the landlord. My electrician charges between $50-$100 for this with attic access to both walls, with one outlet box. A new breaker would be additional.

Safety first.

Lee
 

Bob-D659

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You can also get "flickering" caused by other things in your house, fridges, furnace motors, electric heating units, pretty much any heavy load on your a/c power will cause a change in line voltage. This also includes your neighbours. First off buy a small digital VOM and monitor your line voltage.

If your new place has older wiring, it is probably undersized for current loads. It might be worth having a visit from a licenced electrician to get an informed opinion on your house wiring.
 
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TheTrailTog

TheTrailTog

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Thanks everyone for chiming in. The house is about 90% restored, with the room I'm printing in being part of the other 10%. The outlets are new and the breaker boxes are all modern but, not sure about the actual wiring. When the flickering was happening earlier it was pretty windy out. The wind has died down and the flickering seems to have stopped, for now. I have noticed it on other occasions as well, even on calm sunny days. Seems to kind of come and go. I was joking with my housemate that the place is haunted...LOL

Feels good to be in the darkroom again after 4 months without :D
 

Frank Szabo

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Thanks everyone for chiming in. The house is about 90% restored, with the room I'm printing in being part of the other 10%. The outlets are new and the breaker boxes are all modern but, not sure about the actual wiring. When the flickering was happening earlier it was pretty windy out. The wind has died down and the flickering seems to have stopped, for now. I have noticed it on other occasions as well, even on calm sunny days. Seems to kind of come and go. I was joking with my housemate that the place is haunted...LOL

Feels good to be in the darkroom again after 4 months without :D

I had a similar problem some years ago.

When it was a bit windy, the flickering would start. It turned out the be the service wire (the three-wire twisted stuff that runs from the pole to the house). Every time the wind blew, areas on the wire would chaffe and eventually rubbed some of the insulation off at the points of contact - the wires would then begin arcing.

Get some binoculars and inspect your lead-in. It's hard to see, but the notable feature is darker areas on the insulation and perhaps a shiny spot here and there. In this area, the power people use a TW-type aluminum wire (neoprene insulation) - rather easy for the wind's action to wear through. A better type is THHN (hi-temp insulation w/ nylon outer jacket and copper conductors) but the extra expense is such the company won't use it.

The service from the pole to your meter is normally a power company issue if this is the case. Call them, they'll come out to verify and replace the lead in wire in short order.
 
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Mike Wilde

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In darkroom fix

I am in a good power state in my house, but am not in control of when the washing machine is running, the fridge, freezer, dehumidifier or furnace fan start. Then there is the roller processor wash dry unit dryer, which cuts in from time to time. All of these can cause voltage fluctuations.

I run the darkroom on its own circuit, and the roller processor on a sepearate circuit yet again.

The best fix was a surplus find. A .25kVA ferroresonant transformer. It lives in the darkrrom now, and powers the enlarger and nothing else. For $60 it seemed a small price to pay for peace of mind, particlarly when I was learning to print RA-4 using roller tubes for the chemistry. The last thing I wanted was variations in bulb brightness from print ot print, when trying to figure in what direction to go with filtration for the next print iteration.
No exposition on transformer regulation could be called complete without mention of an unusual device called a ferroresonant transformer. “Ferroresonance” is a phenomenon associated with the behavior of iron cores while operating near a point of magnetic saturation (where the core is so strongly magnetized that further increases in winding current results in little or no increase in magnetic flux).


the tex that follows has been snipped from the "all about circuit" web site:

While being somewhat difficult to describe without going deep into electromagnetic theory, the ferroresonant transformer is a power transformer engineered to operate in a condition of persistent core saturation. That is, its iron core is “stuffed full” of magnetic lines of flux for a large portion of the AC cycle so that variations in supply voltage (primary winding current) have little effect on the core's magnetic flux density, which means the secondary winding outputs a nearly constant voltage despite significant variations in supply (primary winding) voltage. Normally, core saturation in a transformer results in distortion of the sinewave shape, and the ferroresonant transformer is no exception. To combat this side effect, ferroresonant transformers have an auxiliary secondary winding paralleled with one or more capacitors, forming a resonant circuit tuned to the power supply frequency. This “tank circuit” serves as a filter to reject harmonics created by the core saturation, and provides the added benefit of storing energy in the form of AC oscillations, which is available for sustaining output winding voltage for brief periods of input voltage loss (milliseconds' worth of time, but certainly better than nothing).

Ferroresonant transformer provides voltage regulation of the output.

In addition to blocking harmonics created by the saturated core, this resonant circuit also “filters out” harmonic frequencies generated by nonlinear (switching) loads in the secondary winding circuit and any harmonics present in the source voltage, providing “clean” power to the load.

Ferroresonant transformers offer several features useful in AC power conditioning: constant output voltage given substantial variations in input voltage, harmonic filtering between the power source and the load, and the ability to “ride through” brief losses in power by keeping a reserve of energy in its resonant tank circuit. These transformers are also highly tolerant of excessive loading and transient (momentary) voltage surges. They are so tolerant, in fact, that some may be briefly paralleled with unsynchronized AC power sources, allowing a load to be switched from one source of power to another in a “make-before-break” fashion with no interruption of power on the secondary side!

Unfortunately, these devices have equally noteworthy disadvantages: they waste a lot of energy (due to hysteresis losses in the saturated core), generating significant heat in the process, and are intolerant of frequency variations, which means they don't work very well when powered by small engine-driven generators having poor speed regulation. Voltages produced in the resonant winding/capacitor circuit tend to be very high, necessitating expensive capacitors and presenting the service technician with very dangerous working voltages. Some applications, though, may prioritize the ferroresonant transformer's advantages over its disadvantages. Semiconductor circuits exist to “condition” AC power as an alternative to ferroresonant devices, but none can compete with this transformer in terms of sheer simplicity.
 

Jim Jones

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I live in a rural house with old wiring, so voltage fluctuations are normal. A voltage stabilizer like Mike described provides consistant voltage to the enlarger. Mine is an old Ratheon voltage stabilizer, but Solar brand models seemed to be more common in years past. These simple devices are reliable: the Raytheon has been powered on for about 20 years with no problems. The Solar that proceeded it was also reliable until the darkroom burned down.
 
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TheTrailTog

TheTrailTog

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Thanks again for the help guys, though admittedly some of it is technically over my head :sad: I have a guy at work that I'm going to talk to today who used to be an electrician. See if I can get him to come over and help me out.
 

PHOTOTONE

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The advice to have the "electric company" come out an check your service is good. They are normally responsible for all wires up to and into your electric meter. It is not uncommon to have a faulty connection on the utility pole where the wires are connected to provide service to your house, as these connections are subject to all the weather elements. This kind of service call is free to you. If they verify that your service is good, then you can look to your house wiring from the meter into your circuit breaker/fuse box and elsewhere.

I have some rent houses, and over the years I have had every kind of electrical problem, from bad connections on utility pole, to bad breaker box connections, bad wall switches, bad outlets, etc.
 

Ralph Javins

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Good morning, Aaron;

An interesting topic.

The comments about the local power company's power lines are valid. If you have any observations about the weather conditions causing the flickering and power fluctuations, that will help them in determining where to look. Be prepared to be patient, and be willing to call them at reasonable intervals to see where you are on their job list.

One of the comments referred to the electrical power meter or "KWH meter" as being the point of division for responsibility. Check with your local power company or utilities commission about that. In many states, it is the "point of service" as defined in their tariffs that will apply. For our electrical services out here in Latte Land, it is usually the weatherhead with the three wires sticking out of it where the splice will be made to the electrical service drop from the pole, or from the conduit and junction box from the underground service feed.

A small point on the name of the very popular constant voltage transformer: Ask for a "Sola Constant Voltage Transformer," not "Solar." I prefer their CVS series. I also agree that the 250 VA or "250 Watt" size is very suitable for most enlargers. If your enlarger head has a higher power rating, adjust the constant voltage transformer rating upward also. I think the next size is 500 VA or "500 Watts." I have several of these from 60 Watts up to 2.5 KW. They work very well. Yes, they do get warm. Do not bury them so they cannot get cooling air. There are also other manufacturers. Topaz Engineering is one other I recall. The most common failure is the large metal cased capacitor or condenser inside on the tertiary or third winding. They are available for repair. If you keep them cool (again, do not bury), they will last a very long time. One of mine is from the late 1950's.
 

Polybun

If lights in your house get brighter, this is usually an indication of problems with the neutral feed line comming into the house. This is something the power company needs to look at.

In the mean time, a UPS should be able to condition things well enough to make enlargements.
 

Bob-D659

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Computer type UPS's like the $199 specials at Costco, only cut in if the line voltage drops below a certain value, the inverter circuit is not running all the time. Constant "ON" fully regulated UPS units are available, but they are not inexpensive. You would likely need a 1500 watt capacity unit as well, as a 250 watt halogen bulb has a very high inrush current at startup as a cold filament is effectively a dead short for a small fraction of a second until the bulb starts to warm up.

Bob, a network computer geek.
 

elekm

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I agree with having an electrician inspect the wiring. It will cost some money, but you can eliminate it as a possible source of problems. You don't want to have bad electrical wiring -- that's a safety issue.

One possibility is the use of a UPS (uninterruptible power supply). While sold for computers, they can be used to power any device. And an enlarger and timer will draw much less current than a computer and monitor, if your enlarger uses a standard bulb.

Basically, it's a huge battery, and whatever is connected runs from the battery, giving you a very stable power supply. The downside is that they don't last more than a few years.
 
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TheTrailTog

TheTrailTog

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Thanks again everyone. My housemate is going to call to have the electric company come out and inspect the lines. Personally, I don't think that is it. It seems to only be the upstairs that is occasionally affected. Never seen any flickering downstairs. Also, it's happened calm sunny days, not just stormy days like Tuesday. Just seems to me that it would effect the whole house if it was the line in??? We'll see what the power company says and possibly call in an electrician to take a look. I don't think we'll end up sinking much money into the issue though. While annoying, it only goes in little spurts. While printing the other day, it was fine the first 30 minutes, then had the flickering for 30 minutes, then was fine for the next 2 hours. The UPS is a possibility. I have an old Automega that uses a standard 75W PH111A bulb.
 
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