Any diopter with the 18mm threads will work. The FM/FE/FA series diopters work, but won't work with an accessory shoe. That said, unless you're shooting flash, or plan to mount the 21/4 Nikkor-O or one of the early fisheye lenses to the camera, there's no need for the accessory shoe, which actually kinda messes up the clean lines of the FS, FT, and FTn prism housing.
Any diopter with the 18mm threads will work. The FM/FE/FA series diopters work, but won't work with an accessory shoe. That said, unless you're shooting flash, or plan to mount the 21/4 Nikkor-O or one of the early fisheye lenses to the camera, there's no need for the accessory shoe, which actually kinda messes up the clean lines of the FS, FT, and FTn prism housing.
I actually once deleted the hot shoe from an FT2 to turn it into an FTn that accepted newer batteries.
Here's how it looked:
All three had the FTn style nameplate. The chrome one was a stock FT2. The modified FT2 in the middle, and the FTn was stock, except for the advance lever and self-timer lever, which came from the modified FT2 body. Other than the different shutter release collar, the black lens release button, later shutter speed ring, black topped depth-of-field preview button, threaded PC socket, and the trim ring below the rewind crank, it looked almost exactly like an FTn. Only other difference was the slightly chunkier prism housing on the top cover.
Well now the mystery deepens. I use a +1 diopter on my FM2 and it's just fine but when I try to use a plus one diopter on the Nikkotmat it's doesn't work right; there is something wrong or different about the camera. I think it is because on the nikkormat you take off the existing diopter and replace it while I'm in FM2 you just add to it by screwing the corrector into the existing diopter.
I'm fairly sure the default diopter power for all Nikon viewfinders since the F is designed to be a -1. Most bodies sold with a screw-in eyepiece which were just plain glass and didn't change the diopter strength. If the eyepiece doesn't have any markings on the edge, it's just glass. The mark on the diopter is the final effective diopter of your viewfinder when it's installed. So, your +1 diopter is actually a change of 2, from -1 to +1. I use an +0.5 diopter, since I wear reading glasses with a +1.5 power.
The diopters (marked on the edge) are supposed to replace the plain eyepiece. No reason to stack one on top of the other, unless you like it that way.
I've had almost every manual-focus Nikon body and many of the Nikkormats, and have used the same power diopter on all of them.
I'm fairly sure the default diopter power for all Nikon viewfinders since the F is designed to be a -1. Most bodies sold with a screw-in eyepiece which were just plain glass and didn't change the diopter strength. If the eyepiece doesn't have any markings on the edge, it's just glass. The mark on the diopter is the final effective diopter of your viewfinder when it's installed. So, your +1 diopter is actually a change of 2, from -1 to +1. I use an +0.5 diopter, since I wear reading glasses with a +1.5 power.
The diopters (marked on the edge) are supposed to replace the plain eyepiece. No reason to stack one on top of the other, unless you like it that way.
I've had almost every manual-focus Nikon body and many of the Nikkormats, and have used the same power diopter on all of them.