Need Help with D-76

RattyMouse · Dec 15, 2014

Hi All,

I have to develop a lot of film in the coming days and the developer I'm going to use for much of it is D-76. I've only used this developer once before so I need some advice from those with more experience.

The film that I am going to develop is mostly Neopan Acros. It is not clear to me how to decide whether or not I should use D-76 straight or dilute 1:1. Cost is of no concern to me so I'm not trying to stretch out my developer at all like that. I don't care for the longer development times of the 1:1 dilution so my preference is to not dilute. However, I do not know how dilution affects grain, contrast, sharpness, tonality, etc.

Can someone give me guidance on the differences of diluting D-76 with regards to properties such as these?

Finally, I have a LOT of DD-X in the house and was planning on developing my TMAX 400 using this developer. If you had your choice would you use DD-X or D-76?

Thank you very much!

Richard S. (rich815) · Dec 15, 2014

Here's a number of photos using Acros in D-76. Times, temps, dilutions and agitation in the titles:

https://m.flickr.com/#/search/advan...otos_IS_1_AND_mt_IS_all_AND_w_IS_38698047@N00

Edit: link works now!

Xmas · Dec 15, 2014

People used to drop off film at the chemist.

Bill Burk · Dec 15, 2014

I use D-76 at 1:1 for around 13 minutes, so I can't tell you how it compares to stock.

I'm pretty comfortable with that development time.

As for contrast, time in developer affects that.

tkamiya · Dec 15, 2014

I've done both (stock and 1:1) and quite frankly, there weren't appreciable (or even noticeable) difference.

I usually use stock as long as development time is greater than 5 minutes. If not, I dilute but for the sole purpose of process uniformity.

Gerald C Koch · Dec 15, 2014

Is there a developer with which you are more familiar? The reason for the question is that it is never a good idea to try something new with important negatives. Now D-76 is pretty straight forward but everyone's process is a bit different. First develop a roll that is the least important to you.

RattyMouse · Dec 15, 2014

Gerald C Koch said:
Is there a developer with which you are more familiar? The reason for the question is that it is never a good idea to try something new with important negatives. Now D-76 is pretty straight forward but everyone's process is a bit different. First develop a roll that is the least important to you.

I usually use HC-110 to develop my film but have run out and do not want to buy a new bottle. I think D-76 is the natural developer to move to and should not radically change how the film looks. I'm just not sure of how to dilute D-76.

From other responders it sounds like 1:1 is the way to go.

RattyMouse · Dec 15, 2014

Xmas said:
People used to drop off film at the chemist.

People also used to respond to queries with relevant answers. Those were the days.

RattyMouse · Dec 15, 2014

Richard Sintchak (rich815) said:
Here's a number of photos using Acros in D-76. Times, temps, dilutions and agitation in the titles:

https://m.flickr.com/#/search/advan...otos_IS_1_AND_mt_IS_all_AND_w_IS_38698047@N00

Edit: link works now!

Flickr is blocked here in China but I can look at this when I am at home and will do so later.

RalphLambrecht · Dec 15, 2014

Xmas said:
People used to drop off film at the chemist.

That's how most of my film got ruined until I started to do the development myself.I don't miss the chemist at all

gone · Dec 16, 2014

I would ditch the T-Max and go w/ Tri-X in D76 full strength. Never been a fan of T-Max. BUT, recently I saw some shots on the gallery here with T-Max in T-Max developer and they were just perfect. Beautiful stuff.

If you don't want to experiment w/ developers and testing and what not, that's why I suggested Tri-X in D76. It's just a great combination, and you don't have to be exact w/ things. It will nearly always tolerate creative misjudgements w/ developing and exposure.

I wouldn't mind flickr being blocked here. Hate the "new" flickr.

RattyMouse · Dec 16, 2014

momus said:
I would ditch the T-Max and go w/ Tri-X in D76 full strength. Never been a fan of T-Max. BUT, recently I saw some shots on the gallery here with T-Max in T-Max developer and they were just perfect. Beautiful stuff.

If you don't want to experiment w/ developers and testing and what not, that's why I suggested Tri-X in D76. It's just a great combination, and you don't have to be exact w/ things. It will nearly always tolerate creative misjudgements w/ developing and exposure.

I wouldn't mind flickr being blocked here. Hate the "new" flickr.

My film has already been shot so I am not looking for recommendations on that front. I mentioned TMAX film not developer. I have the following films already shot: Neopan Acros, TMAX400, Delta 400, and Delta 3200. I have two full bottles of DD-X and was planning on using that to develop my TMAX400, Delta 400, and Delta 3200. My thought was to use D-76 to develop the rolls of Neopan Acros. It seems that there are no real strong advantages to developing at full strength so from the replies here in this thread, I am going to use 1:1.

RattyMouse · Dec 16, 2014

APUGuser19 said:
Good choice. D-76 is the ketchup of film developers. You can pour it on everything.

Yeah, but who dilutes their catsup 1:1??

LikeAPolaroid · Dec 16, 2014

tkamiya said:
I've done both (stock and 1:1) and quite frankly, there weren't appreciable (or even noticeable) difference.

I usually use stock as long as development time is greater than 5 minutes. If not, I dilute but for the sole purpose of process uniformity.

The difference is evident on the prints. Don't trust the scanner.

RattyMouse · Dec 16, 2014

LikeAPolaroid said:
The difference is evident on the prints. Don't trust the scanner.

Well what are the differences then? I need to know as I'm starting to do my developing tonight, about 4 hours from now. So far no one in this thread but you has indicated that there are any substantial differences between stock and 1:1 dilutions.

ericdan · Dec 16, 2014

Why not buy another bottle of HC-110 ? It apparently lasts forever, so no worries about it going bad before you use it up.
That being said I use D-76 1:1 for everything except Delta3200, which goes through Microphen.

LikeAPolaroid · Dec 16, 2014

RattyMouse said:
Well what are the differences then? I need to know as I'm starting to do my developing tonight, about 4 hours from now. So far no one in this thread but you has indicated that there are any substantial differences between stock and 1:1 dilutions.

You'll get a better defined grain in 1+1 and a slightly longer tonal curve.

Stock contains 100g/L sulphite which works on the grain pretty aggressively. You get less grain but less defined too.

RattyMouse · Dec 16, 2014

Better defined grain=sharper image?

RattyMouse · Dec 16, 2014

ericdan said:
Why not buy another bottle of HC-110 ? It apparently lasts forever, so no worries about it going bad before you use it up.
That being said I use D-76 1:1 for everything except Delta3200, which goes through Microphen.

Because I wont be in China long enough to use the whole thing. I plan to move back to the US during 2015 and don't want to waste half a bottle or more.

ericdan · Dec 16, 2014

I have half a bottle of HC-110 and don't know what to do with it. I think I like D-76 1:1 better.

Xmas · Dec 16, 2014

RattyMouse said:
Better defined grain=sharper image?

Yes both bigger grain & sharper edges
But not detectable difference unless you shoot brick walls only.

tkamiya · Dec 16, 2014

LikeAPolaroid said:
The difference is evident on the prints. Don't trust the scanner.

I actually have a darkroom (you know, a room with an enlarger?) and do make prints in the darkroom. I still don't see much difference with prints up to 11x14 from 35mm. I've heard of grain difference and tonality difference. I do not see them.

I also have a 40x microscope. I don't see the difference there either.

What actual difference do you see?

Thomas Bertilsson · Dec 16, 2014

Acros shot at EI 50 in D76 straight for 6m30s @ 20*C is a really nice combination. Prints like a dream. I tried 1:1 and didn't really see any difference. It just took longer.
Capacity wise I use ten rolls per gallon concentrate. If you need 500ml per roll you'd get about 8 rolls at 1:1. Same difference, so I don't even see an economic advantage to diluting it.

Others may have other experiences.

LikeAPolaroid · Dec 16, 2014

tkamiya said:
I actually have a darkroom (you know, a room with an enlarger?) and do make prints in the darkroom. I still don't see much difference with prints up to 11x14 from 35mm. I've heard of grain difference and tonality difference. I do not see them.

I also have a 40x microscope. I don't see the difference there either.

What actual difference do you see?

I do know what a darkroom is. But thanks for explaining.
Now, the grain difference is of course dependent on what film you use, agitation pattern, temperature. I am sure you know all of this.

Now - I see differences with HP5 and TriX which are the only fast films I use. Prints have a different "impact", more defined especially in the microcontrast.
On slower speed films the difference is less visible.

palewin · Dec 16, 2014

If you read Kodak's data sheet for D-76, it says right in the first paragraph, "for greater sharpness, but with a slight increase in graininess, you can use a 1:1 dilution of this developer."

I personally trust Kodak's own knowledge of their product best. I've also used D-76 1:1 on 35mm film for at least 30 years, having decided I preferred it to Microdol or HC-110 for that format. For larger formats I prefer PMK or Pyrocat HD.

Need Help with D-76

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