Need help with Conley Anastigmat Series VI adjustable front cell?

[Mark G MacKenzie]

Hi group. I just got my new (to me) Conley full plate field camera #201. It came with a "Conley Anastigmat Series VI F 4.5 6 1/2 x 8 1/2 No. 14747 Equivalent Focus 9 1/2 Inches" in an OPTIMO shutter Patnet June 14, 1910. The best news is that the shutter works, a bit slow and maybe a bit sticky but it definitely works.

The lens appears to be a simple two cell (each with one element) design. I can get the rear cell off for cleaning but the front cell won't budge. During the examination of the front cell area I noticed that there was a witness mark on the cell barrel and opposite on the front cell extreme forward ring a "0". By grasping the front cell barrel lip and turning it counter clockwise the front cell will turn through an arc of 90 degrees ending its travel with a number "5" opposite the witness mark. The front cell is graduated from 0 to 5 through the arc of 90 degrees.

I haven't cleaned the lens yet and the ground glass leaves a lot to be desired and will be replaced so I can't look through the lens and turn the front cell.

What is this feature for do you think? I am wondering if it is some sort of portrait lens with a selectable degree of softening.

Second question. Should this front cell be able to be removed by turning it out? My hands won't budge it and I don't want to get out the soft belt wrench just yet.

Any help in identifying this lens and its features so I can use them intelligently is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Mark MacKenzie

 

[darinwc]

Does this lever change the position of the front cell at all?

 

[Mark G MacKenzie]

Conley Anastigmat Portrait Lens

Hi. There is no lever which causes the extreme front portion of the front cell to move. You have to grasp the front of the barrel (cel) lip and twist. It is very tight but definitley made to do this.

I managed to find that Cooke produced ca. 1908 ? through 1913? a lens known as the "Portricar" which was normally sharp and you twisted the front cell front to obtain the desired degree of portrait softness.

I went back to my lens and used it as a simple magnifying glass and watched the sharpness of the image as I moved the front cell from the "0" marking through the range to "5". There was a marked softening of definition. So, I am pretty sure that this is the explanation. I have yet to find a mention that Conley produced such a lens. The Optimo shutter carries a patent date of 1910 and the Wollensak name.

I think this is going to be a definite keeper. I just have to figure out how to get the main front cell off the shutter for cleaning.

Regards

Mark MacKenzie

 

[athanasius80]

Mark,
I have the Conley catalog of 1913 upstairs and remember off hand that the series V was convertible and the series VI was not. I'm fairly certain that Conley series V was the same as Wollensak Velostigmat series I. Your series VI lens sounds like the Velostigmat series II lenses that were designed for a sort of variable soft focus. I've no idea how to take it apart, but someone who knows early Wollensak should be able to help.
Good luck!

 

[jimgalli]

I believe you'll find that what you have is a Wollensak Velostigmat Series II with the adjustable defocus feature in the "Conley" wrapper. If that's correct you'll find that you have 2 cemented cells at the rear and 2 singles at the front. The entire front barrel should spin out of that shutter though. Try making yourself a couple of rubber 'grips' from an old inner tube. Shown in the 1913 catalog with thanks to Seth Broder for providing these. Go easy on the Optimo though. They are nice useable old shutters.

 

[Mark G MacKenzie]

Conley Velostigmat Portrait Lens

Hi Jim. Thanks for the information. I agree with you.

I am concerned about removing the front cell. By training and by inclination (the lens is MINE!!) I am careful when taking things apart. However, I am flummoxed (sp?) with this one. The lens is quite dirty on the interior spaces. The rear can be readily accessed. I am cautious about cleaning the rear of the front cell by working through the shutter as the iris leaves appear to be paper and the shutter leaves either rubberized paper or something like ebonite (?) and even at their most open position are vulnerable to physical damage.

I will try the rubber grips idea. I have a special non-marring belt wrench which works very much the same way and may work up to gently trying this. Are there any other suggestions I might try myself?

I really wish to return this lens/shutter to full or nearly full working condition for period photography and because it deserves to be preserved and used.

Thanks for all the advice so far

Mark MacKenzie

 

[jimgalli]

Hi Jim. Thanks for the information. I agree with you.

I am concerned about removing the front cell. By training and by inclination (the lens is MINE!!) I am careful when taking things apart. However, I am flummoxed (sp?) with this one. The lens is quite dirty on the interior spaces. The rear can be readily accessed. I am cautious about cleaning the rear of the front cell by working through the shutter as the iris leaves appear to be paper and the shutter leaves either rubberized paper or something like ebonite (?) and even at their most open position are vulnerable to physical damage.

I will try the rubber grips idea. I have a special non-marring belt wrench which works very much the same way and may work up to gently trying this. Are there any other suggestions I might try myself?

I really wish to return this lens/shutter to full or nearly full working condition for period photography and because it deserves to be preserved and used.

Thanks for all the advice so far

Mark MacKenzie

Mark, 'Grip" it well behind the part that turns. That part is fragile, but the barrel behind there isn't. When you get it freed, you'll see a screw sticking out sideways inside that is the stop at the end of the 1-5 travel. Remove it and unscrew the 2 glasses from each other. Once you've got the glass in 3 seperate groups, drop them in some hot soapy detergent and leave em alone for several hours. The detergent will do it's magic. Then rinse, dry with your softest old cotton towel, and re-assemble. Voila. That's a nice old lens. I'm looking for one.

 

[Nathan Smith]

As far as restoring the shutter, contact (there was a url link here which no longer exists) , our resident APUG shutter expert. She does great work at a remarkable price and will take the time to make sure that your shutter is working correctly.

Nathan

 

[Mark G MacKenzie]

Conley Velogstimat

Thank you people for all the tremendous help. I am doubly rich, first in the camera and lens which is a piece of history I can use and therefore touch the past and secondly, in wealth of shared experience you have given me. Thank you.

I will be very cautious about gripping the barrel only. Although I am in Canada I am seriously considering sending the shutter to Carol which would be my first experience in professional shutter cleaning.

While the shutter is away perhaps I will restore the camera to an appropriate using level.

Regards

Mark MacKenzie

 

[Mark G MacKenzie]

Removing front cell and maybe a surprise

Following Jim's advice and that of others I used a rubber belt grip soft wrench and by gripping on the barrel portions was able to free the barrels from the shutter. I am amazed at the close fitting thread cutting and fit tolerances Wollensak used at this time.

Jim. The front barrel when freed from the lens does not have a screw to permit the separation of the two front elements. It actually appears that the rear element of the front cell may actually screw out however I will have to come up with something quite secure but gentle and capable of gripping a small foot print to do this. I am not going to do this unless the cleaning of what glass surfaces I can get to now doesn't do the job.I don't wish to damage the lens.

If the adjustable Velostigmat front element design always had a screw perhaps this is a variant?

I also looked into the Optimo shutter and lightly cleaned/buffed by hand the brass timing piston to good effect.

I will post some pictures later for those who might be interested.

Thanks to all who have helped.

Mark MacKenzie