Based
solely on the evidence of the negatives:
I'm going to vote against agitation issues. Bromide drag due to underagitation causes areas of underdevelopment falling to the bottom of the tank under areas of high density, the drag is always in the same downward direction. Under agitation can also produce mottled negatives and negatives with areas of underdevelopment around highlights due to developer depletion. Overagitation causes denser areas on the edges of the negative due to turbulence but these denser areas line up with 35mm's sprocket holes. Underfilling the tank would cause areas of low density.
The distinctive feature of the dense artifacts are:
- They occur only on the margins of the frame
- The artifacts line up with dense highlights
- The artifacts don't extend past the frame into the rebate and they show up on both sides of the frame.
- They have the distinctive streaky look of a light leak from the margins of the film - always 'pointing' to the center of the frame.
All this points to a light leak of some sort and that the light is coming through the film gate.
One possibility is light leaking around the shutter at the top and bottom of the curtain, or, for vertical shutters, that the shutter isn't properly capped at the top and bottom of the blade travel. Very little light falls on the shutter while the mirror is down, but when a shot is taken the mirror is up for a period of time much longer than the shutter speed (at normal shutter speeds). When the mirror is up the closed shutter is subject to bright light that can leak around the shutter and hit the film. The effect should decrease with long exposures - obviously with a 1 second exposure the mirror up/shutter closed time will be trivial when compared to the shutter's open time -- and the light falling on the shutter will be dim - hence the 1 second exposure. Conversely, at 1/1000 of a second the mirror up time is ~100x longer than the shutter open time and a light leak around the shutter will have a greater effect -- at high shutter speeds the scene brightness is high and/or the lens is open wider and so the intensity of the light falling on the shutter when the mirror is up is greater.
However, if the camera has a horizontal shutter then I have trouble seeing how the problem could appear on both edges of the curtains, if the problem was on only one side of the frame then I can see it. Possibly if one of the curtains was creased or bowed down it's length. Examining the two curtains - before and after a shot is taken - should show any problem.
If the camera has a vertical shutter then I can see that a problem can cause the shutter to improperly cap at both ends of the shutter's stroke.
The OP, TTBOMK, hasn't specified the camera. That information might be helpful.