Need help diagnosing another issue.

cerber0s · Nov 22, 2020

I developed a roll yesterday that I shot with my nikkormat and had dark(light) streaks along the entire film. As I shot it using long exposures I figured it could be a light leak from the view finder as there was light from all directions.

I shot another one today using the Rolleiflex and see the same issues. Almost as if the fix didn't clear the middle of the film. Is that it? And if so, can I put the dry film back in the fixation bath.

cerber0s · Nov 22, 2020

Forgotto include the x-ray...

removedacct1 · Nov 22, 2020

cerber0s said:
I developed a roll yesterday that I shot with my nikkormat and had dark(light) streaks along the entire film. As I shot it using long exposures I figured it could be a light leak from the view finder as there was light from all directions.

I shot another one today using the Rolleiflex and see the same issues. Almost as if the fix didn't clear the middle of the film. Is that it? And if so, can I put the dry film back in the fixation bath.

Yes, you can refix the film. It does appear as if the dark band MIGHT be insufficiently fixed. Make sure you check the fixer before use (if its been used before) and fix for twice the amount of time that it takes to clear a test clip of that film type. (Longer for Tmax films)

Vaughn · Nov 22, 2020

Develop/fixing 120 on SS reels in a SS tank for a few decades, I have noticed that the tank needs good solid active aggitation...beyond normal developing aggitation...for 120 to fix well.

I take the tank in both hands and throw it over one shoulder (without letting go, of course), and then over the other shoulder, then repeat, pretty much constant the whole fixing time. My idea is to shoot that fixer through the rolls of film. Doing this with a double 120 SS tank in each hand is a work-out, though the movement is a little different. The double SS tanks have about 1.5 inches above the two reels, so there is good flow as the reels zoom back and forth.

MattKing · Nov 22, 2020

One suggestion - it helps if you more particularly reference the nature of your problem in the thread title.
Which film is that?

cerber0s · Nov 22, 2020

MattKing said:
One suggestion - it helps if you more particularly reference the nature of your problem in the thread title.
Which film is that?

I'll remember that, thanks. The film is Fomapan 100. I think I figured out what the problem was, it's basically me and I have a theory.
I've had problems with dust on the negatives as the film hangs to dry in the kitchen. A few days ago I developed a test roll and in a stroke of... eehh, genius..? I tried running the rinsed film a few times through 99% Isopropanol to chase the water away and it worked like a charm. I think what has happened here is that the water got expelled so fast it caused fogging under- or in the emulsion. Kind of like spilling hot water on varnished wood. Wetting the film again seemed to fix it.

I still have a problem with the edge of the film being under developed and had the same problem with the last roll of 120 film. I use the exact amount of developer specified for the tank with 120 film but it seems like I should probably add some.

cerber0s · Nov 22, 2020

Vaughn said:
Develop/fixing 120 on SS reels in a SS tank for a few decades, I have noticed that the tank needs good solid active aggitation...beyond normal developing aggitation...for 120 to fix well.

I take the tank in both hands and throw it over one shoulder (without letting go, of course), and then over the other shoulder, then repeat, pretty much constant the whole fixing time. My idea is to shoot that fixer through the rolls of film. Doing this with a double 120 SS tank in each hand is a work-out, though the movement is a little different. The double SS tanks have about 1.5 inches above the two reels, so there is good flow as the reels zoom back and forth.

Thanks! I'll be more firm next time

DeletedAcct1 · Nov 22, 2020

cerber0s said:
I'll remember that, thanks. The film is Fomapan 100. I think I figured out what the problem was, it's basically me and I have a theory.
I've had problems with dust on the negatives as the film hangs to dry in the kitchen. A few days ago I developed a test roll and in a stroke of... eehh, genius..? I tried running the rinsed film a few times through 99% Isopropanol to chase the water away and it worked like a charm. I think what has happened here is that the water got expelled so fast it caused fogging under- or in the emulsion. Kind of like spilling hot water on varnished wood. Wetting the film again seemed to fix it.

I still have a problem with the edge of the film being under developed and had the same problem with the last roll of 120 film. I use the exact amount of developer specified for the tank with 120 film but it seems like I should probably add some.

99% isopropanol isn't kind on the gelatin, can denaturate it.
Best way to get rid of dust (ie accelerate the drying process) is to use a film squegee, if you dare
A caveat: use it with rubber blades at room temp and after soaking the in wetting agent + water.

kevs · Nov 22, 2020

Alessandro Serrao said:
<snipped>
Best way to get rid of dust (ie accelerate the drying process) is to use a film squegee, if you dare
A caveat: use it with rubber blades at room temp and after soaking the in wetting agent + water.

Never use a squeegee unless you want tramlines neatly scratched into your film (bt;dt). Hang films to dry in a dust-free place. Dust spots can be later removed by re-washing in lukewarm water with a little wetting agent and a gentle rub with very clean fingertips (bt;dt) but you'll never rid your negs of the tramlines. The best place for the squeegee is the bin, IMO.

Rick A · Nov 23, 2020

Vaughn said:
Develop/fixing 120 on SS reels in a SS tank for a few decades, I have noticed that the tank needs good solid active aggitation...beyond normal developing aggitation...for 120 to fix well.

I take the tank in both hands and throw it over one shoulder (without letting go, of course), and then over the other shoulder, then repeat, pretty much constant the whole fixing time. My idea is to shoot that fixer through the rolls of film. Doing this with a double 120 SS tank in each hand is a work-out, though the movement is a little different. The double SS tanks have about 1.5 inches above the two reels, so there is good flow as the reels zoom back and forth.

Great way to attain proper agitation. I like that you use an over size tank for the reel.
Most people over fill their tanks which does NOT allow for proper flow dynamics to get good agitation. Stainless tanks are measured in fluid ounces, not in metric volumes. A single 35mm tank needs 8 fl.oz., and a 120 tank(double 35mm) requires 16 fl.oz. to allow for much needed air space that allows fluids to flow.

relistan · Nov 23, 2020

Rick A said:
Great way to attain proper agitation. I like that you use an over size tank for the reel.
Most people over fill their tanks which does NOT allow for proper flow dynamics to get good agitation. Stainless tanks are measured in fluid ounces, not in metric volumes. A single 35mm tank needs 8 fl.oz., and a 120 tank(double 35mm) requires 16 fl.oz. to allow for much needed air space that allows fluids to flow.

I have two old Nikor tanks, and one of them is about a 1/4" shorter than the other. The shorter one _cannot_ handle two rolls of film properly. That 1/4" of space transforms the development of the film from streaky to good, with the same amount of fluid present.

Need help diagnosing another issue.

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