Need flash!!

[Mirko]

Hi, I'm searching for a cheap flash to use with my Kiev 88, something like Sunpack or Metz, also without any automatic integrated sistem...

Any advice???

Mirko.

 

[benjiboy]

Metz 45 CT1

 

[Ralph Javins]

Good morning, Mirko;

OK. Metz 60 CT1. Honeywell-Heiland Strobonar 600, 700, 800. Nikon SB-1. Almost any of the handle grip or bracket mounted large electronic flash units from the 1970s.

However, you can use one of the electronic flash units with an integral light metering auto mode, such as the Vivitar 365, Sunpak 522, 544, 622, Honeywell-Heiland 770, 882, and several other similar models. They do think the world looks like an 18% gray card, but they do not rely on any TTL light metering or other communication with the camera; something the Kiev 88, 88CM, Hartblei, or ARAX will appreciate. If the negatives you get are not what you want with a particular electronic flash with an Auto mode, adjust the ASA dial on the flash to get the negative density you want from that flash.

 

[yulia_s_rey]

i once bought a disposable camera, ripped her open: saved the film, lenses & springs along with a perfectly good flash unit.Remove the battery- You must be careful as the capacitor will have a charge (about ~200V!) and I discharged it beforehand...be veeeerrry careful I wouldn't do this unless you have experience with electronics. The flash unit comes out as one piece, I made a plastic case for it using an watchbox and some modeling glue. for a $5 flash +a free roll of film it's worth it: if you'd like to the diy way it was more a proof-of-concept thing, but it still works after +6 months.

 

[jp498]

If you want to use a grip/bracket like Ralph talks about...

Even a newer flash like a vivitar 285hv or nikon sb24 or sb800 can be fully manual with different power level settings and work with pc cord adaptors. The 285hv has an often missing adaptor cord, and the sb24 has a pc connector on it I think. The sb800 isn't cheap, but mentioned for it's backwards compatibility.

 

[PentaxBronica]

Definitely look at the Metz 45 range. I have a CL-1 which came with rechargeable battery and charger for £30 from ebay. The NICADs could probably do with replacing but they will hold a charge and power the flash well enough.

Bought the CL-1 as the early CT-1s can have a scarily high trigger voltage, and I can't help thinking this isn't good for even mechanical film cameras in the long term.

 

[Ralph Javins]

Good morning, Mirko;

PentaxBronica does have a good point about being concerned with the flash trigger voltage. On many of the older electronic flash units from the late 1960s and the 1970s, there could be a couple of hundred volts of DC on those termnals. With the old metal contacts in the bodies and lenses of that time period, this was not a real problem, other than some metal erosion over time. With our more modern cameras with built-in electronics, often you can exceed the safe voltage levels of the electronic circuitry. This will be expensive. A real quick and effective cure is to use something like the Wien SafeSync device between the old electronic flash and the new camera. Then, no problem.

And, the modern large handle grip electronic flash units with the Auto light sensing systems also do have an "Off" or "Manual" switch position to turn off the internal light control system, and convert the unit back to a fully manual electronic flash unit. My Vivitar 365 and Sunpak 544 flash systems will do that.