Need dilution adjustment HELP

[mark]

I mixed a working batch of fixer-the last in the bottle-and stupidly mixed it 1:4 when I should have mixed it 1:11. It is 1 liter of solution. How do I get it to 1:9? It is all the fixer I had left so remixing is not an option and it was my last empty bottle. I now have fixer for film but want fixer for POP.

 

[Nick Zentena]

The 1 litre you have now is 1:4. So that's

200ml fixer
800ml water.

Or 20% fixer concentrate.

You want 1:9 or 10% concentrate.

1/2 litre of the 1:4 mixed with 1/2 litre of water. Will give you

100ml of fixer concentrate
900ml of water.

I think that's right.

 

[juan]

If I understand what you've done (mixed 250ml of fix with 750ml of water) wouldn't you just add 1500ml of water to get to 1:9? I'm no math wizard, so I could be wholly wrong. But then again, unless POP is much different than silver gelatin paper, it's just fixer - I wouldn't think the dilution would need to be exact.
juan

 

[Ronald Moravec]

He wants 1;11, not 1:9.

200 ml stock now in 1 liter. Use 1/2 which is 500 ml containing 100 ml stock. You already have 400 ml of water and want 1100. Add 700 ml more water to it.

 

[Ian Grant]

He wants 1;11, not 1:9.

If you read it again he said he had meant to mix 1:11 but then he says he now wants 1:9

He knows best

But POP should be fixed in a plain Hypo solution not commercial fixer which will bleach the image extremely rapidly

 

[mark]

Yes I want 1:11

Plain hypo is best but regular fixer diluted way way down does a good job too. At least from what I have seen.

 

[Ole]

But POP should be fixed in a plain Hypo solution not commercial fixer which will bleach the image extremely rapidly

You're right there - I use commercial rapid fixer diluted 1+50 from working strength if the highlights are grubby! Any stronger than that and the bleaching action is too rapid and difficult to control, and tends to get blotchy.


Mark: If you want fixer for POP, try to get hold of "plain hypo", AKA sodium thiosulfate. Commercial fixers tend to contain too much other stuff, worst of all is ammonium. Bleaches your nice print right back to paper white!

 

[dancqu]

You're right there - I use commercial rapid fixer
diluted 1+50 from working strength ...

" ... from working strength ... " That would be 1:250 or
1:500? Either way that's more dilute than the 1:49 I use as
a one-shot with prints; P. Formulary's, nothing added. Dan

 

[mark]

I gave up. I will be pilfering some sodium thiosulfate from a kalitype kit and I will be ordering a big bunch because I hate running out and doing stupid things like this. Plus I will be doing things the way they are supposed to be done, instead of trying to cut corners.

 

[dancqu]

I gave up.

You gave up your dilution. You stopped at 1:4.
Finish the dilution. Add more water; 7 volumes
more of the amount of concentrate you
started with. Dan

 

[mark]

I did but it still bleached the print way faster than I have seen it do it in the past, and the toning brought nothing back. I honestly do not know what was going on. I just need to do it right.

 

[Ole]

As I said, Mark...

It's useful to know you can use rapid fixer as bleach with POP! It will bleach less if you tone the print before fixing, though...

But for "real" fixing, nothing beats plain hypo.