Need advice on shutter for Kodak Vestpocket Autographic

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Just picked this up today. I think it's had the bellows replaced, they appear to be 100% and not dried out, no pinholes or separation. Lens is pretty clean, viewfinder needs a cleaning.

Biggest issue is the shutter is sticky, sometimes works, sometimes not. It doesn't look too difficult to clean based on what I can find on the net. Sounds like a spanner wrench is the first order of business, but when I look up spanner wrench for a camera what comes up looks like it could take out the bellows, lens, and do a lot of other damage with one false move. Then too, I've seen a few tutorials that say to attack it from the front by removing the screws on the lens board.

Any help? I definitely want to use the camera.

DSC05215 (2) by telecast, on Flickr
 
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I have replaced the bellows on one of these cameras, but it has been a few years since I last did it on this model. Ordinarily I would disassemble my example to confirm, but I currently have a partially exposed roll of film in it. If I recall correctly, you won't be able to access the working bits of the shutter without using a spanner to remove it from the lens board. Removing all the screws on the front panel will allow you to detach the scissor struts, remove the front panel from the shutter assembly, and detach the speed and aperture scale from the shutter, but there is then a cover plate for the shutter which is held on by three screws fastened from the rear of the shutter. Thus, you need to remove the shutter from the lens board before you can access these screws.

You should be able to remove both the front and rear lens elements before detaching the shutter from the lens board, in order to prevent damaging them. I actually prefer to use a watch crab with the pinions ground flat rather than a conventional lens spanner, as it reduces the risk of something poking through the bellows. Something like this:
https://www.sciplus.com/spanner-wre...MIo-bg2Ies7gIVE4dbCh18ZQmbEAQYBiABEgJEcvD_BwE

Once you have loosened the retaining ring a turn or two, you should be able to use a wooden stick or such the rest of the way, further reducing the risk of damaging the bellows. Although, of course, some care must be taken in the process.

If you haven't seen these, May I suggest you look into them:
https://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=vpauto
https://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=kodakbb


By the way, your example looks to be a higher end model, having a doublet rather than the ordinary meniscus lens. Good Luck.

If you have any further questions, feel free to inquire.
 
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Brownie_Holiday
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Thanks so much! I will investigate that tool, it looks a lot safer than the other one!

I did find that site and bookmarked it for reference. Thanks for the info on the model. Based on the serial number it's later, probably 1926. The latest patent date is 1923.

You aren't that far from me, I'm just south of Ann Arbor.
 
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OK, nevermind then. The information above is correct. I mentioned some incorrect screw positions and then edited my post.
 

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Brownie_Holiday
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OK, nevermind then. The information above is correct. I mentioned some incorrect screw positions and then edited my post.

Thanks. I've ordered the wrench you suggested, will dive into this more after it arrives. I note that there are no screws holding the scissors truss to the lensboard, they are rivets. Do you know if that wrench will work through the rear of the camera with everything still attached? I am thinking the depth may be an issue. There are 8 screws on the front of the camera, 4 directly on the bezel that surrounds the lens, and 4 more around it. I'll study it some and keep poking around.

This 1917 manual may be of help. https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Inter-Lens-Shutters-1917.pdf see page 30 for the Kodak Ball Bearing shutter. There are many variants of this shutter, all work/service basically the same.
I use this style spanner for all my camera work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOME-Spann...548282?hash=item48ef6d133a:g:IpUAAOSwuEZfiobW

Good stuff, thanks! The thought of using that spanner wrench around the bellows and lens scares the crap out of me! If I do need to order one, at least I know which one to get.
 

shutterfinger

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The bellows should be flexible enough to give a 90° turn then reposition and turn another 90° until the retainer will unscrew by hand. The notched slot tips with the slot in to the retainer or the straight points will work best in this situation.

The balls are 1/16 inch/.0625 inch. Clean the balls, the curved rods and the grove they sit in thoroughly, then give them a sheen of light machine or clock oil.
 
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With the struts riveted you will just need to be more delicate in removing the shutter assembly. Remove the retaining ring from the back, then extend the front panel, the bellows will stay in the body. Then, remove the four screws on the black panel and the whole shutter assembly, lens and speed/aperture plate will remove from the back.
 
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Brownie_Holiday
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What should I use for a cleaning solvent? The repair manual says Benzene, can't find that these days. What alternative? I've heard the blades can have shellac on them, so that eliminated alcohol.
 
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Brownie_Holiday
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After I ordered the little watch back remover I got to poking around for a cheap set of small needle nose pliers and some tweezers. I found this kit at Harbor Freight for $8 with...surprise...the same tool. I'll give it a shot hopefully this weekend.

image_6731.jpg


Watch Repair Kit, 8 Pc. (harborfreight.com)
 
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Brownie_Holiday
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Well, that didn't work. The blades aren't long enough to lock into the slots in the ring before the body of the tool contacts the camera body. Another 1/8" would've done it.

So, now do I wait for the other tool to come and see if it works, or just order the one shutterfinger posted?
 
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