Need advice on buying a TLR.

FWIW, my TLR is a Ricoh Diacord that I bought an a photo forum (don't recall which one) for about $50. Some thoughtful soul before me removed the controls for the meter and bolted on a plastic disc to cover the hole--the the selenium cell is still there with its little pop-up cover, which is good for impressing the youngsters. Getting to the point, it serves me perfectly well. I like its character, though I also like a FED-2 with collapsible Industar so take it with a grain of salt.

I took this photo using 120 Delta XP2 in a Yashica 24. I had also just flocked the lens/film box. I can't tell the differences in terms of sharpness comparing shots I took with 220 and 120 film.

WARNING on the Yashica shutter: DO NOT try the self-timer. this is the red-dotted lever at the bottom of the lens. Just avoid it for now. two reasons:

One, the shutter will be seriously jammed if you activate the self-timer when the flash sync (middle right yellow dot lever) is set to M. There is a physical mechanism designed to prevent you from doing this, but it doesn't take much to over-ride it. Again, DO NOT USE the self-timer if flash is set to M.

And knocking that little lever to M is not difficult!

Two, the self-timer is often dirty and dragging. Although you can often just push the lever until it winds down and releases finally if it does drag, just don't chance it for now.

Take a look here:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

a pretty good deal.

Freestyle sells 220 film, but keep in mind the extra hassle of developing it yourself -- special reels and so on -- commercial? Just make sure they know what you are giving them.

As to which camera -- for all TLRs check for shutter operation -- slow speeds should sound smooth and snappy, self timer should not drag (although nobody ever uses them so this is not critical except a draggy self timer shows that other parts of the shutter are also needing service). Check that wind mechanism is smooth and sure---make sure, as you focus, that the lens panel all rises away from the body of the camera evenly, that it is not out of alignment. Dents and dings are a huge red flag.

Rollei or Yashica? You save a bit buying a Yashica, and the lenses on the newer ones especially are very good, but the extra you pay for a Rollei pays dividends, although service also costs more. Compur shutters tend to not age as well as the Seiko ones on the Yashicas if ur looking for an older camera that can get by without being serviced right aweawy, but when a Compur shutter has been serviced it is heaven.

All these cameras are 30-50 years old, so you pretty much better plan on having it serviced if not already. Essex in New Jersey is good.

I picked it up for $45. Lens has some thin scratches, the X/M lever is broken, the name plate is a bit loose, and the shutter is a bit slow. Focus is working, body is in good condition, and it winds and stuff! I haven't tested out the meter yet since I need to get a new battery cap. The shutter speeds tend to be consistently a BIT slower than normal. The half second ends up like 3/4ths second, the 1/4ths second ends up like 3/8ths second. The 1 second speed is the one that's REALLY messed up. It consistently gives me about 1.5 seconds, but sometimes it goes super fast and sometimes it sounds like the timer gets stuck and goes for like 4 seconds. I did get quoted on a CLA for $85 dollars in a local shop and I think I might take that offer after a few rolls. And thanks a bunch for all the help and advice guys!



Ran a roll through it. Just noticed the film counter is broken and it doesn't stop when you wind it. So I kinda just wound through a whole role of film. The winding is also squeaky. I guess I'll take it somewhere to have it quoted. Otherwise, I guess I just bought myself a nice paperweight!

UHHHHH....too bad...thought you were taking a roll with you---well--there you go--next time you will--learning experience...you may want to just call the dude up an undo the deal--if he's a right guy he'll take it back unless you made some "as is" deal with "no returns".

I wouldn't even bother getting a battery cover--just put any old plug in there that fits flush and stays put--hardware store or cork screw it in--the meter is almost certainly dead on that thing--they do not last AND not worth getting them fixed.

johnielvis said:

UHHHHH....too bad...thought you were taking a roll with you---well--there you go--next time you will--learning experience...you may want to just call the dude up an undo the deal--if he's a right guy he'll take it back unless you made some "as is" deal with "no returns".

I wouldn't even bother getting a battery cover--just put any old plug in there that fits flush and stays put--hardware store or cork screw it in--the meter is almost certainly dead on that thing--they do not last AND not worth getting them fixed.

Click to expand...

I was! But I forgot... big mistake.. And I did call the guy back, not to return it, but just to ask if he knew about the problem. He told me some weird thing about changing the pressure plate (This is a Yashica-24) and hung up....

But I guess we all learn from mistakes!

wow...if he told you THAT, then he knew enough about it to know it was junk

well...good thing he only got you for that much...save you trouble being a repeat customer in the future

man....it's people like THAT that ruin things for everybody--don't get discouraged, but this IS kind of your fault, though.....next time....do what regan said "trust, but verify"....no cash till you TEST it...shoot that roll!

Do not make another mistake: unless your "local shop" that quoted you $85 for a CLA works on TLRs and does so a lot send it elsewhere. Or you can likely add that $85 to the money you already wasted paying for a broken Yashica. Adds up fast.

Being cheap is always more expensive in the end. Pay more to get a good camera from a reliable source and pay more to get it worked on from a proven well-known TLR repair person. It cost more but is much less expensive....

Does the camera use a film sensor to operate the counter? And, if it does was the film loaded properly?
Squeaky is normal for other yashica tlr's
The shutter may improve by working it.

Can you tell I don't know Jack about this camera?

On my 124, there is a lateral shaft (side to side) with a gear on the left end underneath the takeup spool. The gear (and therefore the shaft) is turned by the rotating film on the takeup spool. I believe - but am not certain - that this shaft operates the film counter. Because it's operated by the film it's, in effect, measuring distance along the length of the film and is therefore not impacted by diameter of the film on the takeup spool.

If I'm right on this, the issue could be with lack of contact between this gear and the film. Not likely (more likely an issue internal to the wind mechanism) but worth a look.

Regarding the $85 CLA, what does that include? My guess is that it is for a CLA of the lens/shutter and won't address your issue. So verify. If $130 ($85 + 45) gets you a properly serviced and functioning TLR, you're still OK.

But based on a estimate for a 124G I got a few years back, Mark Hama charges something around $175 (going from memory, so don't quote me on this) for a CLA. However he goes through the entire camera and provides a warranty. He probably does charge a premium, but I'd say most of the difference is due to the scope of work.

Alternatively, you might try reselling it as a parts/repair camera. There are a few "repair hobbyists" out there will to pay $20-40 for the camera. You can try here on apug or on the Favorite Classics repair forum (http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi). You might even find DIY instructions there.