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"Native Printer Density" or NPD - Digital Negatives

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mkochsch

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Oh it would take a stretch of -20 to -30 weather here in Winnipeg to force me back into working wouldn't it? :rolleyes:

Just thinking out loud. Here's the idea:
It's (yet) another method for calibrating the printer to the process/negative using the combined black CcMmYK inks. As such it's probably a good choice for gum bichromate and classical cyanotype where density requirements are usually not as demanding. But, that said, it may work for other processes too depending on the printer and the inks.

The method takes the opposite approach to finding a blocking colour. It says "let's leave the printer alone". Just let the printer print at whatever density it wants to print at when you're using combined inks to make black. (We will assume the printer prints with too much density for your given process).

For example, when your inkjet printer prints a 100 per cent black patch (the white point of your print) it can create an opaqueness of something in the order of 1.8 logD with your UV lights. Your emulsion however only requires 1.05 of the scale to use its properties fully.

If you just print your negative straight out with no adjustments we all sort of know the scenario. After establishing a standard print time you come up short on the highlights. In desperation you try over-exposing to try and salvage some of the highlights because overall the negatives range is to long for the emulsion.

If you printed-to-process a stouffer step-wedge and a digitally generated 101 step-wedge on OHP together you would see the stouffer wedge gets its highlight at step 10 or 11 on a T3110 or/and around step 7 on a T2115. And for the purposes of our demonstration let's say the digital step wedge turns white around step 68 on a 101. Here's where the miracle of the curve dialogue steps back into the scene.

You open curves and "lift" your white point for the print up to 32 (see attached image) and apply a "straight line", What you've effectively done is limit the tones which will print. You've "padded" the highlights on the image (see bracketed area "A") on the histogram "pulling" them left, toward the shadows like an accordion player moving the bellows inward.
View attachment 204

Now this doesn't eliminate the need for a tonal adjustment curve. That still would need to be calculated in the usual way. BUT it starts and ends your adjustment curve in the lower-left and upper-right corners. It's two visits for the curve

I can almost hear the screams of "but you're losing tones!!". Maybe with an 8-bit file yes, but maybe not with a 16-bit file they don't seem to be an issue with this technique. To prove this you can open a 16-bit file and use curves to pad out the image. Then after you've applied this go into the Levels command and "fix" the image by tightening up the white point, keep repeating. You would think that you'd get the pumpkin teeth (or some call it picket fence) in the histogram right away but you don't! I didn't see any after five or six iterations of curving off and highlights and then resetting the white point.

Simpler. A throwback, sort of. Less futzing with the printer settings possibly. The advantage (if indeed it is an advantage) to this method is it eliminates the step of selecting and applying a blocking colour for those users who don't require a lot of UV blocking power in their process. Also, printing with combined CMYK inks might more evenly drain the inks from your printer. I seem to blow through a lot of Magenta carts and Yellow when I'm printing digital negatives, which is fine if an when I need a lot of density. There may also be a resolution advantage because the dot count of combined CMYK may be higher per inch. The disadvantages, less potential blocking. If the blocking colour is too black you may revert to a situation where the highlight are printing defacto "black ink only". Questions?

~m

p.s. ...and honestly Native Printer Density is not a hidden anagram for anything. :D
 

sanking

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Simpler. A throwback, sort of. Less futzing with the printer settings possibly. The advantage (if indeed it is an advantage) to this method is it eliminates the step of selecting and applying a blocking colour for those users who don't require a lot of UV blocking power in their process. Also, printing with combined CMYK inks might more evenly drain the inks from your printer. I seem to blow through a lot of Magenta carts and Yellow when I'm printing digital negatives, which is fine if an when I need a lot of density. There may also be a resolution advantage because the dot count of combined CMYK may be higher per inch. The disadvantages, less potential blocking. If the blocking colour is too black you may revert to a situation where the highlight are printing defacto "black ink only". Questions?

No questions, but a comment. That work flow sounds very much like how I started out printing digital negatives with the Epson 2000p. I was totally new to digital at the time so had no idea how to adjust for the best blocking color, so I just used composite black. Turned out that the Dmax by UV light of composite black was about log 3.3, so the correction curve had to be very abrupt, which clearly resulted in the loss of some tones, but I was working with 16 bit files even then. But my curve was not all that precise either since it was one of the cookie cutter curves that I got from Dan Burkholder's site. With all that bagage I still was able to make a lot of prints that looked pretty good to me.

Later I learned from Mark Nelson how to make my own correction curve for whatever process. This was in the pre-PDN day when I was still printing with composite black. This, plus the ability to predict the best blocking color, makes the production of good digital negatives much easier, and the results are better IMO.

Sandy King
 

E Thomson

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Hi, I've been lurking here for a while and have been circling around alt processes for a longish while, somewhat haphazardly accumulating something passing for knowledge in the area of digital negatives. I'm finally ready to take the last steps. Quite a while back I picked up Burkholder's material and absorbed it as best I could without actually putting anything to practice. Now, coming back to it, I see the field has leaped ahead in many ways and perhaps I'm glad I let things mature a bit before jumping in. In particular, printers.

I now have a HP 9180 and have familiarized myself with initial results on Pictorico OHP. I have a plate burner with collimator and vacuum table. I'm interested in photogravure with ImagOn film and also in an obscure alt process called temperaprint, which is similar to gum. ImagOn is definitely UV-intensive; I don't yet know how to characterize temperaprint.

My question is more a request. Would someone please characterize Mark Nelson's product for me? I hear the general tone of respect with which people refer to his product and I get a general idea that he is selling an approach which amounts to a system. And that the system involves a thorough method leading to a digital negative optimized for a particular alt process. Would someone please flesh this out a bit for me? I get a sense of thoroughness from his site but come up a little short on detail. Will his approach suit my needs, with respect to the printer I own and the processes I want to explore?

Thanks for anything, and I look forward to membership here.
 
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Joe Lipka

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reck -

There is a lacking of detail at Mark Nelson's site because the detail is available when you purchase his system.

I started out pretty much the same way you did, via the Dan Burkholder method for digital negatives. What I found was there were two components to a digital negative, a color portion and a density portion. If you click on the mkochsch user above, you can get to his open source digital negative website. Using that and the posts you can find on this site, you should be able to get your digital negatives from theory to practice in short order.
 
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