@earlz work is indeed great, and his recipes do work. I have been playing with Fomatone MG Classic paper. Kodalith 1:25 creates beautiful orange tones but no trace of infectious development, whereas Jordan's formula creates yellowish highlights and beautiful blacks from strong infectious development. I will get a box of Ilford MGV soon, since this seems to create nice prints with Jordan's formulas, too.
Hi! Sorry I've been gone for a while. Also, it's Ashley now
It's great to know that some people are starting to mess with my formulas and confirm that they do actually work and I'm not crazy afterall. I can't even count the number of times I've argued with people about the results I get being supposedly impossible.
Personally what I've been enjoying lately is doing "DIY Lith" which is basically just mixing my own lith developer from raw chemicals just before usage in the darkroom. I do this using % solutions so that I don't need to worry about mixing or stirring for a long time (hydroquinone especially can be annoying). The solutions I use:
* 10% hydroquinone dissolved in either DMSO+propylene glycol or just propylene glycol. DMSO is non-toxic but does smell awful. Hydroquinone is extremely soluble in DMSO. PG alone requires heating to dissolve
* 10% sodium sulfite in water
* 10% potassium bromide in water
* 10% sodium hydroxide in water (1% citric acid is good to keep on hand if you overshoot the pH though). 20% potassium carbonate is easier to handle but more expensive and has a little bit less character
* 1% PEG-3350 in water (sold as MiraLax in the US)
An example usage of these would be something like:
* 30ml hydroquinone solution
* 12ml sulfite
* 5ml bromide
* 13ml hydroxide
* 8ml PEG-3350
* all added to 1L of room temp tap water. Pre-rinse all modern papers before development
These solutions are very easy to mix and use, but it can take some patience figuring out the best way to use them for your creative aims. I love being able to formulate a specific developer with a specific aim for each image. The worst part of this is that without formaldehyde, it is thus far not easily possible to formulate a long tray life developer. Most formulations I like will last only 1-2 hours, some last just 30m. However, I'm able to use papers and achieve results which I've not seen from any other off the shelf lith developer including EasyLith, LD20, and Arista Lith Premium.
Ilford MGV RC is my favorite paper to work with as well. It is easy to handle and extremely flexible in terms of the results you can get depending on how you formulate the developer and process the print. Fomaspeed RC is actually pretty fun too, it gives cold and grainy tones. For fiber, Fomatone MG Classic is excellent, and Fomatone FB (non-classic) can give good results usually (some finishes don't work though? still not 100% sure). Ilford Warmtone sometimes work but is a real bear to work with. I've yet to figure out why it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. Specifically it'll fail due to snowballs. The number of modern papers which are easy to work with are still fairly limited, but at least it's more than just Fomatone Classic available. Also using my custom formulations as a second pass developer is something I've been doing lately which is really fun. I really like using a copper sulfate based bleach for this.