My new mint $300 M3.. Couple of half frames.

[ToddB]

Hey guys, I took my new M3 out for a stroll last weekend and noticed after developing there was a few Half frames at the start of the roll, it settled down and produced solid frames after that. The lady a got it from said it hadn't been shot for a few years. So I hoping that a couple rolls might work out any sore muscles. I know a CLA probably might be best, however, I'm little short funds to get it done right away. So.. What do you guys think? Think it will settled down? Shutter speed sound perfect by the way.

Todd

 

[mdarnton]

If it continues, it's a shutter curtain tension problem, but it may just have needed some exercise, too. I inherited an M4 that hadn't been used for 15 years or so, and it was doing the same thing for a while on 1/1000, but eventually it loosened up

 

[ToddB]

Good to know.. I have it with me today with no film in it. I may dry fire a few times to give it some exercise.

Todd

 

[Saganich]

Agreed. The minute you get mad at the thing send it for a CLA.

 

[Hatchetman]

could get worse when cold. put it in the fridge.

 

[ToddB]

Dry fired this about 40-50 times. Didn't see an obvious problem. Maybe that's all it needed. It's like the Tinman, just need to wiggle the joints a little.

Todd

 

[pdeeh]

So.. What do you guys think?

My guess is that's why it cost $300

 

[David Lyga]

My opinion is that mechanical clockwork does not need exercising, ever. I know that some will dispute this 'heresy' but it is true.

The 'exercise' has done nothing other than temporarily loosen the gear grime, but that curtain slowness will come back with time. The timing gears must be gently flushed with a solvent (I use lighter fluid). The trick is to not get any in the RF area (unless you wish to remove the top to clean it after you wet it!). Gently squirt some directly onto the escape mechanism and timing gears, then quickly turn the body over to let it drip out. (Of course, this is done with the bottom off.) It should (hopefully) be filthy liquid that comes out. You might also try squirting some fluid onto the shutter button and film advance mechanisms, so that it flows directly to the bottom and comes out. Doing this with the body slightly slanted AWAY from the RF area will keep the liquid from entering the RF area.

Of course, Todd, if all the speeds seem OK, even when that body is very cold, the problem probably emanates from the first curtain not moving fast enough to avoid capping. One of those two curtain-tension screws must be tightened a little, as time (probably decades) can lessen the strength of those curtain springs. - David Lyga

 

[ToddB]

I really didn't think the lady knew what she had and the value of it. I got hell of a good deal. Being that camera was setting around for while without being used, it was bound to be a little picky. I was watching the shutter curtain on every shot and butter smooth. every speed works as it should. Timer works great. Advance lever is smooth as silk. Even if I sent it to Youxin for CLA ($180.00) I'm still money ahead.

ToddB

 

[ToddB]

Talked to Youxin,

He had me do a couple of simple test. Using a bright light, look through the back of the camera and have the light shinning through the front of the camera. Firing the shutter, you should have the light be visible each time. It didn't. Needs a body CLA. Going through my piggy bank now.

 

[nanthor]

Please do not squirt anything into the shutter button! You will end up paying for it with more than a CLA, trust me. Bob.

 

[ToddB]

I'm letting Youxin do the work.

 

[Fixcinater]

Should be quite nice after he gets done with it.

Post photos when it's back!

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

Dont play with bottom screws , they are expert business.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

My opinion is that mechanical clockwork does not need exercising, ever. I know that some will dispute this 'heresy' but it is true.

The 'exercise' has done nothing other than temporarily loosen the gear grime, but that curtain slowness will come back with time. The timing gears must be gently flushed with a solvent (I use lighter fluid). The trick is to not get any in the RF area (unless you wish to remove the top to clean it after you wet it!). Gently squirt some directly onto the escape mechanism and timing gears, then quickly turn the body over to let it drip out. (Of course, this is done with the bottom off.) It should (hopefully) be filthy liquid that comes out. You might also try squirting some fluid onto the shutter button and film advance mechanisms, so that it flows directly to the bottom and comes out. Doing this with the body slightly slanted AWAY from the RF area will keep the liquid from entering the RF area.

Of course, Todd, if all the speeds seem OK, even when that body is very cold, the problem probably emanates from the first curtain not moving fast enough to avoid capping. One of those two curtain-tension screws must be tightened a little, as time (probably decades) can lessen the strength of those curtain springs. - David Lyga

Whenever I tried the same, it works for a while but comes back rather soon, 24 hours to a week. David is correct

 

[daleeman]

Youxin is the way to go.
He made my father's IIIf RDST like new and my M2 is just outstanding.

 

[McFortner]

With me, anything more complex than a box camera shutter I send off for CLA/repairs. I wouldn't try to fix a Leica/clone for all the tea in China. Those things are too complex for the amateur IMHO. At $300 plus probably the same or less for a CLA you still got a steal.

 

[summicron1]

Dry fired this about 40-50 times. Didn't see an obvious problem. Maybe that's all it needed. It's like the Tinman, just need to wiggle the joints a little.

Todd

It could be a stiffness issue. Let it sit a couple days and fire it at a high speed with no lens and the back open, hold it toward a light and see if it caps on the first shot. If not, ur good to go. If so, spend the Bux on a clean from Youxin Ye .


If you want a reliable camera that will last a long time it should be serviced anyway. It will cost less than $200 if it doesn't need parts.