My Hasselblad V-system Maintenance

[Flashcam]

My Hasselblad repairman at Samy's only said us the 1 second time. He never talked about the two springs that you posted about.

 

[BrianShaw]

There are two different timing trains, in a manner of speaking, which I think are sensible to both be exercised if one is exercising shutters.

 

[Flashcam]

The info I heard came from a Camera Rep years ago when CF lenses were pretty new. He could have called them "different mechanisms". I think I would listen to someone who has opened one up by this time tho. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[Flashcam]

I understand about doing more photographing than exercising shutters. Over the years working in the studio was nearly continuous work, each constructed image was followed by almost an afterthought to record it on film. Then pushing on until the books were finished. Striking out into the sunlight is sort of a new endeavor these days. Thanks for the reminder. Inspiration for a new project just happened this last week!

 

[BrianShaw]

The info I heard came from a Camera Rep years ago when CF lenses were pretty new. He could have called them "different mechanisms". I think I would listen to someone who has opened one up by this time tho. Thanks for pointing that out.

The Compur and Prontor shutter diagrams and overhaul instructions are in several places on the internet. You can look at the parts diagrams. It’s not just springs that move as a shutter operates. It’s the timing trains and levers that can also get gummed up.

 

[BillBaileyImages]

Ralph isn't an amateur:
View attachment 374718




That being the first edition, of course.
I'd be prepared to bet that cover photo was taken with a Hasselbad, although not necessarily by Ralph.
It is one of my most used references.

An incredible, and super-accurate, volume that is on the top of my reference list.
Just received the 6th edition of The Practical Zone System by Chris Johnson. Less technical than Mr. Lambrecht's masterpiece, but helpful and clear also.
Looking forward to lists of folks' favorite reference works.

 

[Flashcam]

There was some great information from Dean Collins on processing B&W with three Hasselblad backs for a commercial shoot. Low, Normal, and High contrast. It included artificial lighting and mostly was for shooting People. The whole system works out very well.

 

[Flashcam]

There was some great information from Dean Collins on processing B&W with three Hasselblad backs for a commercial shoot. Low, Normal, and High contrast. It included artificial lighting and mostly was for shooting People. The whole system works out very well.

The "system" was actually about methods of manipulating lighting for manual tone control during capture, to enable standardized results before the film gets to the darkroom.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

"love for these technical and optical marvels" - perfect phrase. Same here. I am an amateur in photography but a pro in GAS. Thats why I am contemplating stuff like a SLX (which noone loves), a R7 (which I really dont need), a TLR (which adds no value to what I am doing).

Still, the question of a scheduled exercise regime is a valid one. Are 5 "actions" enough? What about film transport etc.?

What about a more holistic rule such as "every camera and lens (for leaf shutter systems) has to do through one film every three months"?

(I also need to remember to take out the dark slides when storing the empty film backs...)

whytaking out the dark slides?

 

[logan2z]

whytaking out the dark slides?

I've heard that leaving the dark slide in for long periods of time leads to compression of the light seal at the dark slide slot which can cause light leaks. Not sure how much of a problem this really is, but I generally leave the dark slide out of my Hasselblad film backs unless I'm removing the back with film loaded.

 

[chuckroast]

You're smart, but my ownership of Hasselblads is more love for these technical and optical marvels than 'need. That's why I don't mind exercising them at least once a quarter to avoid issues. I'm starting to do the same with my mechanical Nikons from the 1970s now for the same reasons.

I do it to every camera in my stable within 6-8 weeks

 

[Sirius Glass]

Interesting method. I usually go through the entire range of speeds and apertures. So you rather recommend to fire the 1s more often? Sounds plausible, since this is often the speed where problems start. Could you elaborate on the mechanical background for this?

When one sets the 1 second the escapement counts down the maximum number of counts thus exercising the complete span of time and gear movement.

 

[chuckroast]

When one sets the 1 second the escapement counts down the maximum number of counts thus exercising the complete span of time and gear movement.

Yes, but firing at all speeds exercises the speed selection rings on the lens barrel. It's not just about moving the shutter itself but all the attendant mechanics. I also use this time as an opportunity to exercise the aperture selection ring with the DOF preview engaged to make sure the blades remain clean, and to inspect the glass for any sign of maladies. Excessive? Probably. But it's harmless and makes me feel more betterer ...

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I've heard that leaving the dark slide in for long periods of time leads to compression of the light seal at the dark slide slot which can cause light leaks. Not sure how much of a problem this really is, but I generally leave the dark slide out of my Hasselblad film backs unless I'm removing the back with film loaded.

I'll have to watch that.

 

[itsdoable]

C and CF lenses have a single main spring. There is a low speed and a high speed escapement. 1sec speed will run the low speed escapement the most, anything above 1/30 will run the high speed escapement.

There are 2 things that cause leaf shutters to stick, 1) resinification of the oil (ie: becoming thick) and 2) oil on the leaf blades. Thick oil happens with time, and the quality of the oil used - no amount of exercise will stop that (just like ... age!). Oil migrating to the blades happens for a number of reasons: heat, too much oil, a lot of use, etc...

I test my lenses at 1 sec - as that's where it sticks first. If it's starting to hesitate, I'll schedule a CLA. I don't, per-say, exercise them, because that just wears them out faster. Besides, they get a lot of cycles as I've been stitching captures with a DIY IR digital(!!) back.

I've been leaving the dark slide out since the 80's(!!!) - the thought was that compressed foam tends to stay that way and the light traps use compressed foam to press the metal film shut when the darkslide is removed. However, Hasselblad used pretty high quality foam, so this was not really an issue - and any compressed foam that did not reseal the light traps had probably been in there for more than 10 years and needed replacement anyways. However, the 3rd party replacement foam used today is quite suspect, as goes gooey in a year. Most of the OE Hasselblad foam took 30 years to go gooey...

That's what I do.

 

[chuckroast]

C and CF lenses have a single main spring. There is a low speed and a high speed escapement. 1sec speed will run the low speed escapement the most, anything above 1/30 will run the high speed escapement.

There are 2 things that cause leaf shutters to stick, 1) resinification of the oil (ie: becoming thick) and 2) oil on the leaf blades. Thick oil happens with time, and the quality of the oil used - no amount of exercise will stop that (just like ... age!). Oil migrating to the blades happens for a number of reasons: heat, too much oil, a lot of use, etc...

I test my lenses at 1 sec - as that's where it sticks first. If it's starting to hesitate, I'll schedule a CLA. I don't, per-say, exercise them, because that just wears them out faster. Besides, they get a lot of cycles as I've been stitching captures with a DIY IR digital(!!) back.

I've been leaving the dark slide out since the 80's(!!!) - the thought was that compressed foam tends to stay that way and the light traps use compressed foam to press the metal film shut when the darkslide is removed. However, Hasselblad used pretty high quality foam, so this was not really an issue - and any compressed foam that did not reseal the light traps had probably been in there for more than 10 years and needed replacement anyways. However, the 3rd party replacement foam used today is quite suspect, as goes gooey in a year. Most of the OE Hasselblad foam took 30 years to go gooey...

That's what I do.

I replaced a light trap in an old 220 back I got for almost nothing a year or two ago. So far, no signs whatsoever of foam breakdown. Similarly, foam light traps and mirror bumpers I've replaced on 35mm bodies have lasted many many years.

Microtools is a good source of foam material (or was) but I bought a precut kit for the 'Blad back from this guy on eBay:

55000+ SOLD NEW HASSELBLAD LIGHT TRAP SEAL SET my copyrighted Instruction | eBay

Happy to share my over 50 years experience of working with Hasselblad.Sold over 55000 sets of trap seals. A HINT FOR CHECKING YOUR TRAP SEAL: Naturally, if you have random light streaks across your film, you have a light leak and bad seal set.

www.ebay.com

 

[warden]

I replaced a light trap in an old 220 back I got for almost nothing a year or two ago. So far, no signs whatsoever of foam breakdown. Similarly, foam light traps and mirror bumpers I've replaced on 35mm bodies have lasted many many years.

Microtools is a good source of foam material (or was) but I bought a precut kit for the 'Blad back from this guy on eBay:

55000+ SOLD NEW HASSELBLAD LIGHT TRAP SEAL SET my copyrighted Instruction | eBay

Happy to share my over 50 years experience of working with Hasselblad.Sold over 55000 sets of trap seals. A HINT FOR CHECKING YOUR TRAP SEAL: Naturally, if you have random light streaks across your film, you have a light leak and bad seal set.

www.ebay.com

Chuck I tried the copyright instructions guy too and didn't like the quality so I went with these instead, who were suggested by my local Hasselblad tech. I think they're better, with a more accurate fit.

Hasselblad Light Seal Trap Kit Same to Original With Tool & Screws NEW---AMANDA | eBay

New LIGHT TRAP SEAL KIT for All HASSELBLAD V System 500/200 Film Back with Instruction is identical to Hasselblad original. Free tool and parts (one screwdriver and two smisall screws for the back) incuded.

www.ebay.com