my first Ziatype

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Well, after finding a suitable solution to develop my own LF B&W film (JOBO tank used like inversion tank for 35mm), much experimenting with developing times, I finally decided that I'm brave enough to spend those few drops of Pd and last night I finally made my first Ziatype. My printing frame wasn't optimal (two sheets of glass), and I lost sharpness because of that. But never the less it was much fun, and I can see a new road ahead.

Now the problems: my printing times were ridiculously long (40 min), and that was with UV exposure unit with UV tubes! Now, here are my observations: I added 1 drop of tungstanate solution, because I prefer warm tones. And it precipitate immediately. I tried to mix things a bit, but solution still wasn't clear. Today I read a few things from archives of this forum, and it seems that heating is in order for tungstanate solution. I also added a drop of 5% dichromate, and again from reading archives of this forum, I found out that dichromate causes loosing of a sensitizer. Are any other problems that can cause such a dramatically prolonged exposure times?

Thank you
Marko
 

photomc

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Marko, Good for you...keep at it. The Zia's depend on the humidity of the paper in order to develope...so if your paper was to dry, or the environment was very dry that would account for the long print times. I have printed the same negative back to back, in the morning - the first came out perfect, the next seemed like it would never develop..the only difference was the humidity. Best thing to do is humidify the room and try to keep it around 60-65%.

Oh yeah, adding the dichromate will add to your developing times....try to dilute some of the 5% and see if that helps. Or just try the negative without it for now. And use a good paper, like COT320 or Platinotype...it will save you furstration later.

Good Luck.
 

nze

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Hi

You should add tungstate after FAox but not after palladaium. So you should put the ferric drop than add the tungstate , you will see a white precipitate, just mix a turn your glass a little and it will dissolve , than only when it is dissolve you ma ass the palladium.

But how many drop of ferric did you use and what is the concentration of your tungstate solution.
Dichromate add contrast but generate longer printing time. but once again it depend on the ratio a 5% drop is a lot for 2 drops of ferric but few for a 48 drops ferric print.

So your drops count may help us to give good answer.

regards
 
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marko_trebusak
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Thank you for your help! Christian, my cout was 6 drops of AFA, 6 drops of LiPd, 1 drop of 40% Tn and 1 drop of 5% ad.

Ah, yes I forgot: I'm using Arches Platine paper - for now.
Marko
 

nze

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Hi Marko

5% drop in the 6+6 xolution you make give a good punch in the ontrast but I guess that without it will get 20 min exposure instead of 40 min.

Another thing to talk too is that bichromate add contrast and give some warmth too and tungstate lowered contarst and add warmth. Using both of them will give quite warmer print with normal contrast.

you may try to master the contrast you need for such neg with a 21 step stouffer , it will save you time.
 
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marko_trebusak
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Thank you again Christian! I'll experiment further, and first thing to try will be to add tungstate before palladium, and to increase humidity in paper. As for contrast and colour, I'm after warmer colour and it seems that I got contrast right (using step wedge).

Marko
 
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