WGibsonPhotography
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Some missing info -
Exposure film speed - although if you got shadow detail, it should be at least enough. Not knowing exposure placement makes it hard to know what a "shadow" is.
Lighting / subject conditions - sunny, cloudy, inside, etc?
Seems like it would be hard to get shadow and highlight detail and miss the midrange - a scan would help, even of the neg.
I would print on grade 2, and see..
If you have shaddow detail then you have your exposure right
If you have good highlight detail then you have your development time right
(Expose for the shaddows & develop for the highlights - by some bloke called A Adams)
What is in between is almost wholey dependant upon the two above factors and the subject matter
However, the real test is - how does it print?
Martin
I developed my first roll of Delta 400 a few days ago. I used Rodinal 1:50 for 20 minutes with agitation the first ten seconds and then ten seconds every minute (suggested by DigitalTruth with agitation suggestion from the box of film). I'm actually suprised by the results. From what I've heard about Rodinal and Delta 400, I was expecting total crap.
It's hard for me to judge 35mm negatives, but there seems to be good shadow detail and highlight detail, but there doesnt seem to be a lot of midtones. Hopefully I'll get in to a darkroom pretty soon to make a few prints. I'll scan any prints I make and post.
if I am lacking in midtones, like I suspect I am, would less agitation help to bring out the midtones? I think I read somewhere that less agitation helps bring out the midtones, but I dont remember exactly what I read. Any suggestions is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
That's pretty grainy, but black and white tends to scan a bit grainily, and Rodinal makes no effort in hiding grain either. Decent results for your first efforts!
Rodinal is good with slow films (in my opinion) but it wouldn't be my first choice with a faster film.
Try a roll in D-76 or ID-11 diluted 1:1 (undiluted will be slightly less grainy but slightly less sharp). The grain should be much less noticeable.
I'd say your images are underexposed and overdeveloped for the scene contrast range you were recording. Printing an underexposed negative with enough contrast to make the lighter tones look right will give you a lot of apparent grain and some pretty harsh contrast. Rodinal is a good developer but it takes some time and experience to tame it. Rate your film at EI 200 and agitate very gently in the developer and see what happens. There's nothing wrong with IS0 400 film for portraits if the lighting, exposure and development are handled properly. It takes time and practice. You did well for a first effort!
Peter Gomena
I chose to do Delta 400 in Rodinal out of curiosity. I've read some posts here and elsewhere, and I've noticed that people really liked it or really hated it. That got me wondering what it looked like. Honestly, I like the grain, but I dont think it would look good in all applications. I might use this combo if I was shooting a heavy metal concert or something like that where I wanted a harsh look or if I wanted something impressionistic. If I was shooting wedding portraits, I would try to shoot Delta 100 or Delta 400 in D-76 or ID-11 as you suggested.
That's the perfect reason to try something. And now you know!
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