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My first failure...

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I'm really disappointed. I thought that my developer held a lot longer as concentrate. I should have taken the time to read the bottle, because it only holds four months after opened, and I have lost two rolls. Bummer.
 
nope, not a failure - simply your first learning opportunity!

yes, it is a bummer and hopefully you will learn more quickly than i... actually i have found the journey to be fun, and you become more philosophical about the "learning opportunities."

welcome to photrio...
 
There's plenty more where that came from. I went through something like 12 sheets of film before I learned how to load a large format film holder properly. Needless to say, I'm pretty good at it now, having plenty of experience doing it just about every possible wrong way.
 
There's plenty more where that came from. I went through something like 12 sheets of film before I learned how to load a large format film holder properly. Needless to say, I'm pretty good at it now, having plenty of experience doing it just about every possible wrong way.

Yeah I went out shooting twice before I realised I was putting the film in the 4X5 holder upside down lol
 
Thanks for the encouragement..

Jim, I just got my first LF camera and was thinking about developing my first sheet in open trays in the bathroom. Is that do-able, or will the sheet resting on the bottom of the trays mess it up?
 
Thanks for the encouragement..

Jim, I just got my first LF camera and was thinking about developing my first sheet in open trays in the bathroom. Is that do-able, or will the sheet resting on the bottom of the trays mess it up?
Open tray development is probably the most common method used. If you do one sheet at a time, I suggest introducing it into the developer emulsion down, then flip the film over, push it to the bottom of the tray, and procede to rock the tray semi-randomly with the emulsion facing up. The tray should be at least one size bigger than the film (ie. 5x7 trays for 4x5 film) -- this prevents uneven development (edges tend to develop more in too small trays). Have fun!

If one never fails, one isn't trying hard enough.
 
Thank you, Raghu. You are absolutely right about the clip test. I will be doing that from now on.

I am ordering trays for LF development. Thanks for the direction, Vaughn.
 
My pleasure...Between here and the Large Format Photography forum there is a lot of experience to draw from.
 
I do tray development quite regularly these days - always one sheet at a time. I'm too clumsy to prevent multiple sheets from sticking, scratching or ending up all over the place except in the tray. Plus, it's easier to give each sheet the development it needs by doing them one by one.

What developer did you use that went bad on you? (I guess we all ran into something like that at some point!)
 
Testing long stored developers with a test strip of film (e.g. film leader) is a good habit. Like this, it has been many years since bad developer got me in trouble.
 
It only happens to me with images I can't go out and re shoot. Last flub was from not letting the reels fully dry. The film bound up and sections were touching each other. Of course on the best images.
 
Koraks, I was using Ilford's stuff, I can't remember which. It was liquid concentrate.

Can someone tell me the easiest way to test the developer? I assume you just use a piece of leader...?
 
Koraks, I was using Ilford's stuff, I can't remember which. It was liquid concentrate.

Can someone tell me the easiest way to test the developer? I assume you just use a piece of leader...?
Take piece of leader and put half of it into the developer for about half the recommended development time, then drop the whole thing into the developer for a further minute.
Rinse it in running water for 30 seconds.
Now put the piece of leader into a small quantity of fixer - say 2 ounces - and swirl it around for half your normal fixing time.
The result should be a quite dense portion of the negative, plus a less dense portion of the negative.
Edited for clarity - the negative and or the chemicals require the usual amount of agitation.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks, Matt. That is something I needed to know and will be doing from now on.
 
After 20 years in a clinical laboratory, I can say it is (or should be) standard operating procedure to write both the open/preparation date and the expected expiration date on every container, every time. Hindsight and all that.

Of course, the manufacturer's published shelf life is purely theoretical, which is why it is also standard operating procedure (sop) to run quality control materials to prove the reagents produce acceptable results before reporting patient results. While I always followed sop in the clinical lab, I can't say the same for my home darkroom - but you have got me thinking about it!

BTW there is poor suffering student in the medium format photography class I am taking who reports 12 out of the first 14 rolls of 120 film she tried to develop failed to produce usable negatives because she has a physical condition that makes it difficult for her to properly wind the film on the spools. (Now that we know, all the other students have volunteered to load her film for her.)
 
You should note that I've added a clarification. You need to agitate.
 
I was rebuilding my current darkroom, about 6-7 years ago. I was (re) assembling my enlarger table. I drilled a hole through a 50 sheet box of 16 x 20 Ilfochrome print material. Meh, at least I didn't waste time on outdated material. I had big plans for that when I bought it. :laugh:
I learned a long time ago, I'm capable of doing dumb things. I have never been arrested, and, so far, haven't done anything that a little money or a minor insurance claim won't fix.

I would celebrate. No real, loss. If you learn, and no one gets hurt. It's a win!
 
After 20 years in a clinical laboratory, I can say it is (or should be) standard operating procedure to write both the open/preparation date and the expected expiration date on every container, every time. Hindsight and all that.

I re-use most of my film processing chemicals, either through replenishment or according to the capacity recommendations of the manufacturer. I put masking tape on each bottle and write that preparation date on it (I'm already familiar with the manufacturer's expiration recommendation). For those chemicals which are re-used, I determine what the manufacture recommends in terms of capacity for the quantity I mix. I then round that number down by reasonable amount and work with that number.
So, if Kodak's capacity recommendation for my Kodak Rapid Fixer is 30 rolls, I'll use 25 rolls and write on the masking tape something like " ______________ of 25 rolls" on it.
Each time I fix a roll, I make a mark. So after 15 rolls, it looks like: !!!!! !!!!! !!!!! of 25 rolls

BTW there is poor suffering student in the medium format photography class I am taking who reports 12 out of the first 14 rolls of 120 film she tried to develop failed to produce usable negatives because she has a physical condition that makes it difficult for her to properly wind the film on the spools. (Now that we know, all the other students have volunteered to load her film for her.)
You should encourage that student to join here and ask for advice. There are people here - myself included - who have developed different techniques and tricks to permit enjoying darkroom work while not having typical abilities and skills. In my case, I have limited flexibility, dexterity and strength in my right hand, so the results you see of anything I do photographically are really left handed!
 
After 20 years in a clinical laboratory, I can say it is (or should be) standard operating procedure to write both the open/preparation date and the expected expiration date on every container, every time. Hindsight and all that.

Yup. Mine was 15 years in a crime lab, but the date goes on every bottle when I open it. It took me a year or two after leaving the lab to stop putting my initials each time, too. Many times, I will think I opened a bottle only a few weeks earlier and am proven wrong by a few months when I look at it. I also mark boxes of paper and film with the date of first use. Once I finish it, that helps me gauge whether I should buy a larger or smaller box next.
 
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