My first day out with my speed graphic and some questions

Well I went out today with my speed graphic for the first time. I went down to the beach since I knew it was going to be packed and I figured I would bring my camera to test it out. I decided to focus three photos on the ground glass and take three photos using the rangefinder and shooting it handheld.

I have just developed my negatives and I notice there is some strange stuff going on with some of them. As soon as they are dry I am going to contact print them and scan the prints to put them up here. I think it might be from light leaks of the film holders but I am not sure as I am kind of new to using film holders.

Anyway my main question is how do you read the focus scale on a speed graphic. I am confused as how it works. I understand that when I have both the infinity symbols lined up it is focused to infinity. But if they are not lined up how exactly do you tell what is going on. I am kind of confused and I cannot really find anything on the net that explains it well.

If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

I also noticed when carrying that thing around in the public people stop to ask you what it is. Everytime I was setting up for a photo somebody would ask me.

Scan and post. --

Most film holders, I immediately upon purchase retape the hinges. I have about 50 4x5 and maybe 30 5x7 and a handful of 8x10 film holders. I have tossed out a couple over time because of light leaks I couldn't do anything about or bent parts. Be sure to be able to match up negs with not only which holder they came from, but which side of the holder until you are sure about them all being light tight.

Jeff Searust said:

Scan and post. --

Most film holders, I immediately upon purchase retape the hinges. I have about 50 4x5 and maybe 30 5x7 and a handful of 8x10 film holders. I have tossed out a couple over time because of light leaks I couldn't do anything about or bent parts. Be sure to be able to match up negs with not only which holder they came from, but which side of the holder until you are sure about them all being light tight.

Click to expand...

Yeah making sure I know what negative was in what holder is a good idea. Too bad I didn't think about that today. I figure tommorow I will cut down some photographic paper to 4x5 size and put one in all my holders then put them out in the sun for about two hours. Then check those sheets and then flip the holders over and do the same. What kind of tape would I need to get as I did notice tonight when removing film from one holder it felt a little loose and the tape was coming off?

How did you develop your films?? Did you tray develop them or do you have tank or what?? I have a Crown Graphic that I have loaded 10 sheets and shot 7 of them now and when I finish the last 3 I want to develop them. I was originally going to tray develop them but one of my friends said he would never tray develop because he thinks that they will scratch each other. I have read in books on tray developing but I have never talked to any one who has done it.
Did you shoot your Speed with the rear shutter or just the front shutter?? What lens do you have on your Speed??

Maybe I should try and tray develop the first 5 and see how it goes. Sorry I am just a chicken when trying new things like this.

On your Speed, is your range finder calibrated to the lens you have?? My Crown's range finder is way off from this lens that I have. I believe the last owner changed lens frequently as he had boxes of them.

Is your Speed a 4x5 or one of the little ones, a 2x3??

cj8281 said:

How did you develop your films?? Did you tray develop them or do you have tank or what?? I have a Crown Graphic that I have loaded 10 sheets and shot 7 of them now and when I finish the last 3 I want to develop them. I was originally going to tray develop them but one of my friends said he would never tray develop because he thinks that they will scratch each other. I have read in books on tray developing but I have never talked to any one who has done it.
Did you shoot your Speed with the rear shutter or just the front shutter?? What lens do you have on your Speed??

Maybe I should try and tray develop the first 5 and see how it goes. Sorry I am just a chicken when trying new things like this.

On your Speed, is your range finder calibrated to the lens you have?? My Crown's range finder is way off from this lens that I have. I believe the last owner changed lens frequently as he had boxes of them.

Is your Speed a 4x5 or one of the little ones, a 2x3??

Click to expand...

It is a 4x5 speed graphic and I tray developed all 6 at the same time. I have one with a scratch on them but that is probally because I need to cut my fingernails. I have a 4x5 pinhole that I made a while ago that I have shot and never had any problems with tray developing those negatives. I do hate doing it in the trays because I have to use my bathroom hunched over in the bathtub. Eventually I will get some kind of daylight developing solution like one of those rotating drum things, but that is way off in the future.

I also did three photos with the focal shutter and three with the front shutter. I did alot of paper negative tests with alot of the different focal shutter speeds to check my exposure so I wasn't wasting film and they all came out with good exposure. The rangefinder is also calibrated to the lens which is a kodak ektar 127.

Here are the three photos that were messed up. Pardon my dirty scanner as I normally don't scan photos. But I have adjusted the curves a bit to make it more pronounced as to what is wrong.

DEFINITE light leaks in the bottom two.

what size tray did you use btw for developing you 4x5 film? I've always found that using 1 size up(say, 5x7 or 8x10) for 4x5 or 5x7, and a 11x14 for 8x10 film.

I'm also seeing some remnants of fingerprints on the film. This can be from loading, grab the film by the edges. I've ALWAYS found that having CLEAN dry hands is best before loading any size film, from 35mm(onto the developing reel, same with 120/220)-8x10 into holders.

-Dan

The bottom two have light leaks into the image, and the top has them just on the edges. The bottom one looks like it was not seated properly into the back. This is either operator error or a warped holder. They all look like they have development issues, especially the first one. I have never had the best results doing multiple sheets at once in the same tray. If you want to tray process multiple sheets at once, I would make or purchase a tray insert that holds the sheets separate from each other. (Some people call these "sloshers," though I don't understand the term.) I have made mine out of strawberry baskets, but there are pre-made plastic ones as well.

Bookbinders tape works well for re taping the hinges. Some folks use gaffers tape but over time I think the adhesive gets soft.

snay1345 said:

Well I went out today with my speed graphic for the first time.

Anyway my main question is how do you read the focus scale on a speed graphic. I am confused as how it works. I understand that when I have both the infinity symbols lined up it is focused to infinity. But if they are not lined up how exactly do you tell what is going on. I am kind of confused and I cannot really find anything on the net that explains it well.

If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

Click to expand...

The Speed Graphic was designed to be a camera that is quick and easy to use handheld. There are three different focusing aids. The first is the ground glass and this requires little explanation. Open the aperture wide open and move the front standard to obtain the desired focus. The second way to focus is to use the rangefinder. Later Graphics have a top rangefinder while older models have a rangefinder on the side. Use the rangefinder as you move the standard and when the two images are superimposed the subject will be in focus. The third focusing aid is the focusing scale on the camera bed. Aligning the two infinity marks is where the lens is focused at infinity. With the standard set on the infinity stops, the infinity marks should align when the bed is about 1/8 inch (2-3mm) forward from the rearmost position. As you continue to move the standard forward, the lens will focus at closer distances. For instance there may be a distance of 50(feet). Aligning the two marks for "50" should focus at 50 feet. Aligning the marks at "15" should focus at 15 feet.

There are some cautions. All three focusing aids should agree with one another. There are some facts that you must know. Rangefinders for top rangefinder cameras require a specific cam for different focal length lenses. Side rangefinders are usually adjustable (within limits). Also, focusing scales are matched to a specific focal length lens, and if someone has changed the lens, you may have the wrong scale.

There is more information at graflex.org.

http://www.graflex.org/technical-information.html

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