My film scanner died and I will ...

Sirius Glass said:

Yes, actually a Dual turn table that tracks at 0.1 grams.

Click to expand...

Ha ha. Mine is a Thorens which my Dad bought when I was not even born. Love it. Long live analog technology!

MattKing said:

And boy do I prefer a well toned print over an inkjet print designed to emulate one.

Click to expand...

It was a few visits to Photo galleries that put the spark back into me to get my darkroom set up. I have a professional ink jet printer gathering dust and I am sorry but the prints just don't compare to a real hand made darkroom print. Luckily I shoot almost 99% black and white though Now I am trying to learn how to make a good print all over again since the last time I was in a darkroom was 1997. I am having so much fun and I am so happy with what I am shooting now. ouch !

MattKing said:

Thanks Mike for the capacity information.

I use it after sepia or brown toning because I see a real difference in the fragility of the emulsion during the final washing and drying steps, although I just air dry my RC prints.

The 1 + 13 recommendation came through APUG. It is reasonably consistent with your suggestion and with the normal dilution recommendation for those who mix up the Part B for hardening fixer.

And boy do I prefer a well toned print over an inkjet print designed to emulate one.

Click to expand...

Amazing things, instruction sheets. My heretical practice of using a belt dryer is addressed in of all things the data sheets for Ilford warmtone and Art papers. They advise to use a hardening fixer to prevent sticking, if you are so foolish as to use a Pako dryer. I love both of mine.
Matt I think I will follow your and Kodak's advice and use a straight hardener after toning. In retrospect I was warming the Selenium toner just enough that I think I was really softening the emulsion as well. When all else fails, follow the instructions!
Best Regards Mike