Thanks Mike for the capacity information.
I use it after sepia or brown toning because I see a real difference in the fragility of the emulsion during the final washing and drying steps, although I just air dry my RC prints.
The 1 + 13 recommendation came through APUG. It is reasonably consistent with your suggestion and with the normal dilution recommendation for those who mix up the Part B for hardening fixer.
And boy do I prefer a well toned print over an inkjet print designed to emulate one.
Amazing things, instruction sheets. My heretical practice of using a belt dryer is addressed in of all things the data sheets for Ilford warmtone and Art papers. They advise to use a hardening fixer to prevent sticking, if you are so foolish as to use a Pako dryer. I love both of mine.
Matt I think I will follow your and Kodak's advice and use a straight hardener after toning. In retrospect I was warming the Selenium toner just enough that I think I was really softening the emulsion as well. When all else fails, follow the instructions!
Best Regards Mike