My F2 is sick!

[George Mann]

And it is a late model DP-1 finder with a metal ring resistor. The problem is, the meter needle has been getting stuck on the negative side when its turned off, and only multiple spins of the ASA knob is making it work again.

The meter is still accurate when it's not stuck. Is there a reputable specialist that I can send it to in the US? Is this something that I can possibly fix myself?

 

[shutterfinger]

There is a factory service manual ad an adjustment procedure for free at http://arcticwolfs.net/
The meter movement is likely dirty and needs flushing out with something like CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-...MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-205021975-_-N
The jeweled meter movement is delicate, handle with care.

 

[AgX]

Long time ago I inquired here whether someone ever repaired a galvonometer, thus the actual meter. Seemingly no one did...

Just these days I got a professional multimeterr from the 60's in hands where the needle gets stuck at a definite point in horizontal position, but swings freely at vertical. I made a respective note and left it as is...

 

[George Mann]

Thanks shutterfinger. I would rather send this one out to someone for a full checkup at this point. Do you know of any reputable place to send it in the US?

 

[gone]

KEH used to repair cameras, and I think they still do. They did very good work on mine.

 

[BrianShaw]

In addition to chemical flush, examine the meter movement with a magnifying glass to check for errant metal chips in the meter movement magnets. But if it’s sealed you might not be at liberty to do so.

 

[AgX]

This is the point why I inquired on this in the past and why I left that current multimeter as is. The needle is spring loaded by a tiny spiral spring. This spring is most influencial on the metering result. One thus needs to get access to the meter needle bearing to clean and lubricate the bearing without deforming this spring. At multimeters such meter-casing is even still big, at cameras it is miniscule.

 

[shutterfinger]

Another type is the D'Arsonval https://electricalacademia.com/inst...-movement-darsonval-iron-vane-meter-movement/
Agx- your meter may be a Taut Band https://worldradiohistory.com/hd2/I...DX/IDX/90s/Ham-Radio-199003-OCR-Page-0071.pdf
The jewel bearings do not need lubrication, they need the debris flushed out.
Sometimes the movement gets knocked out of the bearing seat from a moderate to hard bump, push back in gently.

I do not know of anyone servicing the DP-1.

 

[swchris]

I do not know of anyone servicing the DP-1.

Sover Wong? UK based, not US, though

 

[Sirius Glass]

KEH.com

 

[AgX]

Agx- your meter may be a Taut Band https://worldradiohistory.com/hd2/I...DX/IDX/90s/Ham-Radio-199003-OCR-Page-0071.pdf
The jewel bearings do not need lubrication, they need the debris flushed out.

I wrote "spiral spring", not helical. And all meters I have looked at got spiral springs.
At watchmaking jewel bearings are lubricated. But at meters the strain is lower, and there is no absolut encapsulation, due to the potentiometrr knob soone may argue on lubrication.

Have you repaired a meter out of a camera?

 

[shutterfinger]

When in trade school I repaired a few VOM's that the movement was flackly on.
Some had the Zeroing adjusting screw cranked toooooo many turns clockwise and turning it counter clockwise several turns corrected the problem.
If I owned a DP-1 that was malfunctioning I would attempt to fix it but I will not work on one for another photographer.
I have a Sekonic L-VI that the silicon sensor is half dead in. It reads accurate above EV 10, close at EV 8, EV 7 and lower forget it. In leather case with lanyard if anyone wants/needs it.