Hello~
Greetings from George from China,Beijing.
This is a post written for those photographers who still use jobo atl and meet the same problem as I did.Though may not have many persons because it's been such a long time since it was discontinued.My gramma may can go wrong because it's my second language,hope the reader could get what I mean.
Last year my jobo atl 2200 dead,and the process of fixing it was very frustrating and cost me a lot of fortune.Fortunately in few days ago when I was almost about to give up it works.I'll post the experience for letting those who met the same problem avoid detours and mistakes.
The first problem is there had nothing showed on keypad,when you turn it on it only start beeping.
The problem of it was usually not on the keypad but the power circuitboard(the one lay under the keypad).
Mine was because some components on the power circuitboard were corroded(the last owner of it was using it roughly),you need to find a nice electrician to let him check it and change the components for you(first thing cost me a lot of fortune).
And this keypad is using membrane switch,which means if some of the button defect,you need to chage the total keypad because it can't be disassembled(though there has two screws under the circuits).
The second problem is that when I turn the atl on,it starts beeping,with
"air diffuser faulty,end manually"showing
First of all,it's nothing about the air leakage,jobo atl has no sensor to test if the air circulation have leakage or something.The hall sensor in there were only set for check the motor position(and there have two floats for water circulation,three temperature sensor).Then it's nothing about the main board or control board,too.I even purchased a spare parts for them(second thing cost me a lot of fortune),then found out nothing changed,now they're laying on my closet.
The problem which caused this error is the air distributor motor was defect,usually it can't be dead,it's just been stuck by the butter inside of the reducing gears as it was applied more than twenty years ago.The method to test it is to power it with 6-10v electric and if it just have noice but not turning,it may get stuck by the butter.
The work on removing and cleaning it was a terrible terrible experience.But worth to do it.You need to unscrew those screws(the disaster is some of them may get rust and be hard to unscrew,I even borrowed a thermal spray gun to remove one of them),(the chemical switching stage may get sufferred by this action,be careful!I realized it after I assembled them all,now I don't even want to fix it because it's so frustrating to move the upper head down and do this again。
Than take down the module (pull the structure located in the lower corner of the machine head,and there is a screw need to be removed on the orther side,near the drum gear.You need to lift the lift to remove it.If you can't do it through the keypad, power the lift motor with 16-20v. Note that the black line is + pole),still,remove those damn screws,than clean the reducing gears under the motor(better take a photo of it first or you may spend a lot of time to figure out how to reassemble them)
If this doesn't help,you need to change it.You can contact Mr.Klaus-D.Seynsche in Germany(kds@fotolaborservice.de,he's a very kind technician and replied my e-mail very fast,remerber to check the trash box because the mail filtering system may do wrong) for purcharsing one.
And then,my atl started to work.What a miracle!
And here's what I want to suggest to those atl owners like me:
DON'T JUST JUST PUT THE MACHINE THERE AND NOT USE IT FOR A LONG TIME.
Because the butter may get stuck,just turn the machine on per few days so the step motor could move when it's running test program.If you think the cooling fan's noice is so annoying you can just plug out after turn off the machine.
And if you're in USA,you're very lucky because if your atl has problem you can call Catlabs to help you,Mr.Omer Hecht is a very kind and professional technician and helped me a lot by emai to fix it.
Best
George
Greetings from George from China,Beijing.
This is a post written for those photographers who still use jobo atl and meet the same problem as I did.Though may not have many persons because it's been such a long time since it was discontinued.My gramma may can go wrong because it's my second language,hope the reader could get what I mean.
Last year my jobo atl 2200 dead,and the process of fixing it was very frustrating and cost me a lot of fortune.Fortunately in few days ago when I was almost about to give up it works.I'll post the experience for letting those who met the same problem avoid detours and mistakes.
The first problem is there had nothing showed on keypad,when you turn it on it only start beeping.
The problem of it was usually not on the keypad but the power circuitboard(the one lay under the keypad).
Mine was because some components on the power circuitboard were corroded(the last owner of it was using it roughly),you need to find a nice electrician to let him check it and change the components for you(first thing cost me a lot of fortune).
And this keypad is using membrane switch,which means if some of the button defect,you need to chage the total keypad because it can't be disassembled(though there has two screws under the circuits).
The second problem is that when I turn the atl on,it starts beeping,with
"air diffuser faulty,end manually"showing
First of all,it's nothing about the air leakage,jobo atl has no sensor to test if the air circulation have leakage or something.The hall sensor in there were only set for check the motor position(and there have two floats for water circulation,three temperature sensor).Then it's nothing about the main board or control board,too.I even purchased a spare parts for them(second thing cost me a lot of fortune),then found out nothing changed,now they're laying on my closet.
The problem which caused this error is the air distributor motor was defect,usually it can't be dead,it's just been stuck by the butter inside of the reducing gears as it was applied more than twenty years ago.The method to test it is to power it with 6-10v electric and if it just have noice but not turning,it may get stuck by the butter.
The work on removing and cleaning it was a terrible terrible experience.But worth to do it.You need to unscrew those screws(the disaster is some of them may get rust and be hard to unscrew,I even borrowed a thermal spray gun to remove one of them),(the chemical switching stage may get sufferred by this action,be careful!I realized it after I assembled them all,now I don't even want to fix it because it's so frustrating to move the upper head down and do this again。
Than take down the module (pull the structure located in the lower corner of the machine head,and there is a screw need to be removed on the orther side,near the drum gear.You need to lift the lift to remove it.If you can't do it through the keypad, power the lift motor with 16-20v. Note that the black line is + pole),still,remove those damn screws,than clean the reducing gears under the motor(better take a photo of it first or you may spend a lot of time to figure out how to reassemble them)
If this doesn't help,you need to change it.You can contact Mr.Klaus-D.Seynsche in Germany(kds@fotolaborservice.de,he's a very kind technician and replied my e-mail very fast,remerber to check the trash box because the mail filtering system may do wrong) for purcharsing one.
And then,my atl started to work.What a miracle!
And here's what I want to suggest to those atl owners like me:
DON'T JUST JUST PUT THE MACHINE THERE AND NOT USE IT FOR A LONG TIME.
Because the butter may get stuck,just turn the machine on per few days so the step motor could move when it's running test program.If you think the cooling fan's noice is so annoying you can just plug out after turn off the machine.
And if you're in USA,you're very lucky because if your atl has problem you can call Catlabs to help you,Mr.Omer Hecht is a very kind and professional technician and helped me a lot by emai to fix it.
Best
George