My developing set up

[James Thorsen]

Hi - so I have been interested in 35mm for some time and I have been taking photos and getting them developed at a local camera shop here in Philly. They did a great job developing, but I wanted to try to do it myself.

Over the past 2 weeks, I've been assembling an arsenal for ideal development. I've been reading a bit and a watching a few Youtube videos. I had to mix and match from both amazon and B&H (couldn't get everything in my Amazon locker and hard for me to get packages at home with B&H).

Here are my chemicals for black and white film:

Ilford ilfotec dd-x
tf-4 archival rapid fixer
kodak indicator stop bath (for black and white)
kodak photo Flo

I'm going to use Massive Dev for instructions on times for my specific rolls of film and I have alll of my beakers, containers and hardware. You think that is a good arsenal to use for a beginner? Anything to keep in mind or any recommendations?

 

[btaylor]

Great start! Now dive in— it’s the doing that counts. Embrace and expect mistakes, they are the best teacher

 

[James Thorsen]

Great start! Now dive in— it’s the doing that counts. Embrace and expect mistakes, they are the best teacher

Yes, I am going to this week. Doing my research made me get some last minute things to make the process flawless. What would be a common mistake you are referring to?

 

[pentaxuser]

Looks fine to me. You might want to practice loading a film in the dark a couple of times but then again some people just naturally have a feel for such things so it may not be a problem. You haven't mentioned where you will load the film. Unless it's a darkroom that you know to be light-tight then it is worth sitting in the room for maybe 10 minutes to be sure it is lightproof.

If it is a changing bag then just make sure it is also lightproof. Zip the bag up with your hands inside and shine a torch from the inside to check you cannot see any light. In case things go wrong after starting to unload the film, simply withdraw the film from the reel and wind it back into the cassette. Have a break for 10 minutes and try again
Best of luck

pentaxuser

 

[James Thorsen]

Oh yeah forgot to mentioned changing bag and Patterson tank with spool.

 

[jimjm]

Sounds like you're good to go!
If you haven't yet, download the Ilford film developer PDF. This has all the processing and times info you'll need for just about any films with your developer. I would start with the manufacturer's recommendation rather that relying on the Massive Dev chart. Not that the MDC is necessarily incorrect, but manufacturer recommendations can change over time, as chemistry and film formulations change.
Just develop a consistent routine and keep chemical/wash temps close, and you'll be all set. Hang your films to dry in a dust free area and don't disturb them for a few hours, until they are dry.

 

[btaylor]

Yes, I am going to this week. Doing my research made me get some last minute things to make the process flawless. What would be a common mistake you are referring to?

James, nothing in particular- that was a general statement. Our mistakes are uniquely our own! I am also a kind of “process flawless” kind of guy, but one of my favorite lessons learned was working with beginners at a local community center and the leaders encouraged everyone to relax, have fun, and don’t worry if you loose a few shots or the occasional roll. Those pictures just weren’t meant to be- now make more!

 

[James Thorsen]

James, nothing in particular- that was a general statement. Our mistakes are uniquely our own! I am also a kind of “process flawless” kind of guy, but one of my favorite lessons learned was working with beginners at a local community center and the leaders encouraged everyone to relax, have fun, and don’t worry if you loose a few shots or the occasional roll. Those pictures just weren’t meant to be- now make more!

Yo thanks!

 

[StepheKoontz]

Just make sure those reels are bone dry, any moisture and it's a problem. I would also recommend getting some cotton gloves for film handling. I also use a nitrile glove to squeegee the film between my first two fingers once I hang it up to dry. The only other suggestion is include both a rotation and inversion motion during agitation to ward against streaking.

 

[mshchem]

Oh yeah forgot to mentioned changing bag and Patterson tank with spool.

There's only one T in Paterson .
Seriously, follow Ilford's directions. They have a great website. Stephe's point on dry reels super important. Also with 35mm, when you trim the end of the 35mm film prior to loading, make sure you don't leave a ragged open perforation hole.

 

[GRHazelton]

Two suggestions based on personal experience: Use something like a plastic dishpan or a developing tray to corral the goodies for loading the tank. It's amazing how big a typical bathroom floor becomes in total darkness as you search for something vital you dropped, and you can't turn on the lights! LOCK THE BATHROOM DOOR AND WARN OTHERS WHY ITS LOCKED! Also label the bottles - and their lids! - for the fixer and developer. (Don''t ask me how I came to this realization.) The idea of practicing loading a reel with a "throwaway" film is a good one. Do it first in the light, then in the dark. When you can do it in the dark easily, you're probably ready. Even so, you WILL have failures. Such is life.

 

[mshchem]

Two suggestions based on personal experience: Use something like a plastic dishpan or a developing tray to corral the goodies for loading the tank. It's amazing how big a typical bathroom floor becomes in total darkness as you search for something vital you dropped, and you can't turn on the lights! LOCK THE BATHROOM DOOR AND WARN OTHERS WHY ITS LOCKED! Also label the bottles - and their lids! - for the fixer and developer. (Don''t ask me how I came to this realization.) The idea of practicing loading a reel with a "throwaway" film is a good one. Do it first in the light, then in the dark. When you can do it in the dark easily, you're probably ready. Even so, you WILL have failures. Such is life.

This is a great suggestion! The OP mentioned a changing bag. I would really try to find a dark, room, or big closet. Get a small chair, a tray or dish pan to put everything. Changing bags can drive you nuts. Perspiration can cause troubles.

 

[James Thorsen]

Just make sure those reels are bone dry, any moisture and it's a problem. I would also recommend getting some cotton gloves for film handling. I also use a nitrile glove to squeegee the film between my first two fingers once I hang it up to dry. The only other suggestion is include both a rotation and inversion motion during agitation to ward against streaking.

Cool - I got the Ilford squeegee coming in the mail. Was intending to use it - thanks for your advice - I see it's important.

 

[James Thorsen]

There's only one T in Paterson .
Seriously, follow Ilford's directions. They have a great website. Stephe's point on dry reels super important. Also with 35mm, when you trim the end of the 35mm film prior to loading, make sure you don't leave a ragged open perforation hole.

Thanks you.

 

[mooseontheloose]

Oh yeah forgot to mentioned changing bag and Patterson tank with spool.

I started developing my own film 13 years ago and used a changing bag then since I didn't have any place I could block out the light properly. Even though I have a darkroom now, I'm still using that changing bag - I actually prefer it to standing in the dark for some reason. That said, as someone mentioned above, as temperatures get hotter, you'll find you'll have very hot sweaty hands in that bag pretty quickly. I do one (or both) of these things to help counter that - before loading film I crank up the air conditioner so that the air is nice and cool before I start. I also wear nitrile gloves - I may sweat inside the gloves, but I won't over my film.

Do you have film clips or something to attach to your film to make sure it dries nice and straight?

 

[Adrian Bacon]

Great start! Now dive in— it’s the doing that counts. Embrace and expect mistakes, they are the best teacher

+1

Also try to be consistent, and if you change anything, only change one thing at a time. Keep notes. I have a moleskin notebook that I use to log rolls developed, what I developed, what I used, and what I did. It’s handy to refer back to.

 

[James Thorsen]

This is a great suggestion! The OP mentioned a changing bag. I would really try to find a dark, room, or big closet. Get a small chair, a tray or dish pan to put everything. Changing bags can drive you nuts. Perspiration can cause troubles.

See I just wanted to add, got most of the stuff on Bjorn's list of recommended items on B&H plus a few things from amazon. One thing that set me back in time was the fixer they sent the "Photographers' Formulary TF-4 Archival Rapid Fixer for Black & White Film & Paper" which needs to be mixed all at once (a one liter concentrate making a gallon solution) because of the solids present in the liquid. Needs to be mixed in a large beaker and needs a gallon container, which was not present on this little "wishlist" provided by B&H. So I had to get those things, which delayed the process. Still waiting on them.

 

[James Thorsen]

I started developing my own film 13 years ago and used a changing bag then since I didn't have any place I could block out the light properly. Even though I have a darkroom now, I'm still using that changing bag - I actually prefer it to standing in the dark for some reason. That said, as someone mentioned above, as temperatures get hotter, you'll find you'll have very hot sweaty hands in that bag pretty quickly. I do one (or both) of these things to help counter that - before loading film I crank up the air conditioner so that the air is nice and cool before I start. I also wear nitrile gloves - I may sweat inside the gloves, but I won't over my film.

Do you have film clips or something to attach to your film to make sure it dries nice and straight?

Yeah, I got film clips, squeegee (arriving very soon), thermometer, one small beaker and medium sized one (the largest one coming in the mail this week). I got the changing bag. Thankfully, I'm in the air conditioning, so temps will be about 72 degrees F. But I intend to have my chemicals at 68 degrees and I intend on working cleanly with gloves.

I know everyone says practice out of the bag, but I don't have any "throw away film". I'm just gonna try on a roll and if it's ruined, it's ruined...not really sweating that too hard. I'm a cook in my professional life. A lot of cooking is having your ingredients ready (mis en place) and following techniques and formulas.

I guess my initial question was just my doubt in the combination of chemicals I had, but from what I can gather it doesn't need to all be the same brand. Thanks for all of your feedback and suggestions...definitely stuff to think about.

 

[James Thorsen]

See I just wanted to add, got most of the stuff on Bjorn's list of recommended items on B&H plus a few things from amazon. One thing that set me back in time was the fixer they sent the "Photographers' Formulary TF-4 Archival Rapid Fixer for Black & White Film & Paper" which needs to be mixed all at once (a one liter concentrate making a gallon solution) because of the solids present in the liquid. Needs to be mixed in a large beaker and needs a gallon container, which was not present on this little "wishlist" provided by B&H. So I had to get those things, which delayed the process. Still waiting on them.

All recommended storage containers were smaller 32oz containers...definitely a let down because I could've gotten them all at once.

 

[Adrian Bacon]

See I just wanted to add, got most of the stuff on Bjorn's list of recommended items on B&H plus a few things from amazon. One thing that set me back in time was the fixer they sent the "Photographers' Formulary TF-4 Archival Rapid Fixer for Black & White Film & Paper" which needs to be mixed all at once (a one liter concentrate making a gallon solution) because of the solids present in the liquid. Needs to be mixed in a large beaker and needs a gallon container, which was not present on this little "wishlist" provided by B&H. So I had to get those things, which delayed the process. Still waiting on them.

As soon as you run out of that fixer, I’d recommend switching over to Ilford rapid fixer. You can mix up 500-600 ml and run 10-15 rolls through it before mixing up the next batch. If you want, you can even replenish it and your per roll waste goes way down.

 

[mshchem]

As soon as you run out of that fixer, I’d recommend switching over to Ilford rapid fixer. You can mix up 500-600 ml and run 10-15 rolls through it before mixing up the next batch. If you want, you can even replenish it and your per roll waste goes way down.

+100

 

[James Thorsen]

As soon as you run out of that fixer, I’d recommend switching over to Ilford rapid fixer. You can mix up 500-600 ml and run 10-15 rolls through it before mixing up the next batch. If you want, you can even replenish it and your per roll waste goes way down.

Oh damn...I should've done that originally...This "Bjorn's" wishlist on B&Hs site really disappointed me! Is this TF-4 mixer really good or something?

 

[tezzasmall]

The fixer that you've ordered will be fine James. Different people use different chemicals, depending upon what they can get in their country easily etc. But yeah, a one litre of liquid concentrate is much easier to use and store than a powder that you have to mix up to one gallon.

And as no one else has mentioned it, a lot of people think using a squeegee is a bit of a no-no, as they are known to produce scratches (down the full length of the film!) occasionally. It only takes a small bit of something to get on the blades and oh dear.... It should be fine for a while whilst new, but I'd wash my hands and run two fingers down it, as recommended by someone amongst these posts.

Good luck with your first film and remember it's supposed to be fun!

Terry S

PS I meant to say, the Pentax K1000 is a great camera to learn on. Very well built and should last a lifetime. I used one when I first went to college, long before digital was even thought about!

 

[James Thorsen]

The fixer that you've ordered will be fine James. Different people use different chemicals, depending upon what they can get in their country easily etc. But yeah, a one litre of liquid concentrate is much easier to use and store than a powder that you have to mix up to one gallon.

And as no one else has mentioned it, a lot of people think using a squeegee is a bit of a no-no, as they are known to produce scratches (down the full length of the film!) occasionally. It only takes a small bit of something to get on the blades and oh dear.... It should be fine for a while whilst new, but I'd wash my hands and run two fingers down it, as recommended by someone amongst these posts.

Good luck with your first film and remember it's supposed to be fun!

Terry S

PS I meant to say, the Pentax K1000 is a great camera to learn on. Very well built and should last a lifetime. I used one when I first went to college, long before digital was even thought about!

Thanks - Yeah, so far I've been really happy with it. I was originally drawn to the technology because of it's gritty lo fi qualities, but I've been getting blown away by the work I've been doing with the Pentax K1000. Crystal clear images with lots of depth.

 

[GLS]

I also wear nitrile gloves - I may sweat inside the gloves, but I won't over my film

+1

Thin, disposable nitrile gloves are a godsend when loading the reels (especially if using a changing bag). ANY perspiration on your hands will otherwise get on the film and will likely cause it to bind in the plastic reels; I learned this the hard way when I first started doing my own development.