My Color Print Paper Keeps coming Out Red. What Am I Doing Wrong?

[ashcorra]

As you can see from the pictures, something has gone terribly wrong, however, I am not sure what.

I have a Durst M605 Color Enlarger. I am using Fuji Crystal Color Paper(I think that's what it's called), with RA-4 chemistry by Arista. Chemistry is not old, it's still fairly new, only bought it no more than 1-2 months ago and have only used it a few times. It is stored in room temp(approximately 73 degrees farenheight at any given time in my condo all year round, I live in Las Vegas). Paper is just as new. My Enlarger is working well, I have had no issues making prints in B&W. And, no I am not using the Red filter that swings back and forth, under the lens. I originally had the colors set to 40 Magenta, 20 Yellow, and 0 Cyan(I never move Cyan). And my first batch came out this way too so I increased the Magenta and Yellow to 60 and 40, respectively, but it's still super Red. What gives?

 

[rcphoto]

Are you new to making color enlargements?

 

[koraks]

Is the swirly pattern visible on the prints consistent with the image on the negative?

How are you doing the development; drums, trays, roller transport processor? What development time + temperature?

How was the chemistry stored exactly; you noted duration and time, but not if any oxygen could get to it during storage.

How are you replenishing the developer; i.e. at what rate?

Is there any possibility of cross-contamination of the developer with blix (this would be my first guess as to an explanation of what you're seeing)?

If you develop an unexposed test strip, does it come out perfectly white?

 

[John Salim]

Looks like your filters are not in. ie... printed with 'white light'.

John S

 

[BobUK]

Looks like your filters are not in. ie... printed with 'white light'.

John S

The Durst M605 has a lever about two inches long on the left side of the filter head.
It is used to remove all of the filters from the light path whilst focussing and composing the image.
After years of using the M605 I still occasionally forget to put the filters back into the light path before making the exposure, so I tend not to use the filter lever if possible.

Good Luck with the printing.

 

[koraks]

Good catch on the filter lever; that's easy enough to verify and a good possibility!

 

[ashcorra]

Are you new to making color enlargements?

Yes, to color I am still fairly new. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve more experience than a proper novice, but I am definitely still learning. I’ve been at it not quite a year.

 

[ashcorra]

Is the swirly pattern visible on the prints consistent with the image on the negative?

How are you doing the development; drums, trays, roller transport processor? What development time + temperature?

How was the chemistry stored exactly; you noted duration and time, but not if any oxygen could get to it during storage.

How are you replenishing the developer; i.e. at what rate?

Is there any possibility of cross-contamination of the developer with blix (this would be my first guess as to an explanation of what you're seeing)?

If you develop an unexposed test strip, does it come out perfectly white?No oxygen can get into my storage, I mix my chemicals in water dispensing jugs, so I never actually have to open them and expose them to air

Is the swirly pattern visible on the prints consistent with the image on the negative?

How are you doing the development; drums, trays, roller transport processor? What development time + temperature?

How was the chemistry stored exactly; you noted duration and time, but not if any oxygen could get to it during storage.

How are you replenishing the developer; i.e. at what rate?

Is there any possibility of cross-contamination of the developer with blix (this would be my first guess as to an explanation of what you're seeing)?

If you develop an unexposed test strip, does it come out perfectly white?

I mix my chemicals in water dispensing jugs like the picture that I attached below. The only time they’re ever exposed to air is when I am mixing them. Otherwise, I keep them sealed in the jug and only pour what I need from the jug. I have one for each separate solution. One for my stock solution one for my working solution. And also each subsequent solution. As for the image, yes, the image is coming out consistent with the negative. It’s just the color that is concerning. I am using a Unicolor drum and mechanical roller, that does the rolling for me. Like I mentioned it is an Arista RA4 kit that I purchased, which included all the chemicals. I have a Cinestill TCS 1000 that i use to heat my chemicals in a water bath. There are several temperatures at which. Arista has recommendations for in the instructions however, I usually go for the developer heated at 95 + .25 degrees Fahrenheit and I let that develop for one minute and 10 seconds, and the blix is able to be heated to a less specific temperature of 85 to 95°F. And then I’d put that on the roller for 60 seconds. After the developer and blix are completed, I let it sit under the faucet of a modest current of running water, same temperature as the Blix, for 2 to 3 minutes. Also, I think it’s worth noting that I am adding replenishment solution to my working solution of both the developer and the blix. The ratio varies, depending on how much paper I am planning on developing, however, with this particular session, the measurements were 120 mL of working solution to 16.6 mL of replenishment and 120 mL of working solution to 22.2 mL of replenishment respectively. And just in case anyone thinks this is important to add, I followed the directions that came with the Arista RA-4 kit very closely, and more importantly I have had success, prior to this with the same kit, so I don’t think I did any of the initial mixing incorrectly. I highly doubt there are any issues with cross-contamination, I am extremely careful not to let that happen with any of my print/negative developing chemicals. It has taken me a very long time to locate many of my chemicals and I have spent a lot of money on these chemicals, and I am extremely careful with them. I don’t do a whole lot of color printing, which is the only t reason I purchased the Arista RA-4 kit, otherwise, I strictly purchase individual, laboratory grade,(mostly Kodak) chemicals for all of my other developing. I am very particular about my chemicals, so, as I said, this is highly doubtful. But, I can’t rule it out 100%. I have not tried developing in unexposed test strip as you suggested, I will have to try this and get back to you.

 

[ashcorra]

This is the jug

 

[ashcorra]

The Durst M605 has a lever about two inches long on the left side of the filter head.
It is used to remove all of the filters from the light path whilst focussing and composing the image.
After years of using the M605 I still occasionally forget to put the filters back into the light path before making the exposure, so I tend not to use the filter lever if possible.

Good Luck with the printing.

Yes I am aware of this lever but thank you for the input.

 

[ashcorra]

Looks like your filters are not in. ie... printed with 'white light'.

John S

Could you elaborate please?

 

[ashcorra]

Looks like your filters are not in. ie... printed with 'white light'.

John S

Your theory sounds interesting, but how is this possible? You mean the enlarger just doesn’t have the intended filters in at all?

 

[rcphoto]

Your theory sounds interesting, but how is this possible? You mean the enlarger just doesn’t have the intended filters in at all?

Most color enlargers have a knob or a lever that moves the color filters out of the light path. Some people like this for focusing or printing in B&W without the dichroic filters. In some cases, it is easy to hit this lever without realizing it.

 

[ashcorra]

Most color enlargers have a knob or a lever that moves the color filters out of the light path. Some people like this for focusing or printing in B&W without the dichroic filters. In some cases, it is easy to hit this lever without realizing it.

YesI have a lever on my enlarger, however, this is not the problem, I’ve checked this already to be sure. But thank you.

 

[ashcorra]

I will do another batch here shortly and post my results, maybe they will be a better clue to my issue. I will try to get a better picture of them also so that they are easier for you guys to examine. I think maybe the picture I attached with my initial post was too vague.

 

[MattKing]

Most color enlargers have a knob or a lever that moves the color filters out of the light path. Some people like this for focusing or printing in B&W without the dichroic filters. In some cases, it is easy to hit this lever without realizing it.

Check as well that nothing in the head is loose or has become dislodged or disconnected.
Very red prints might come from the cyan filter coming loose from the control dial and falling into the light path. If the bulb location has been moved from where it should be, that could cause a problem too.

 

[rcphoto]

Check as well that nothing in the head is loose or has become dislodged or disconnected.
Very red prints might come from the cyan filter coming loose from the control dial and falling into the light path. If the bulb location has been moved from where it should be, that could cause a problem too.

Thats a good point, adding Cyan makes a "white" light correct?

 

[MattKing]

Thats a good point, adding Cyan makes a "white" light correct?

No - a blue-green light.
And if you increase the amount of cyan, your print will move toward being more red, because red and cyan are complementary.

 

[ashcorra]

Check as well that nothing in the head is loose or has become dislodged or disconnected.
Very red prints might come from the cyan filter coming loose from the control dial and falling into the light path. If the bulb location has been moved from where it should be, that could cause a problem too.

Hmmm I see, I will definitely do a check up on my enlarger, maybe that’s what it is. I’ll let you know.

 

[koraks]

This is the jug

Looks like that jug will allow air in as you drain fluid from it, leaving your chemistry exposed to the effects of oxidation. Don't expect your developer to last very long this way unless you keep the jug entirely full.

As to replenishment, does the Arista developer use a dedicated replenisher, or does it replenish with working-strength developer? If the latter, your replenishment should be OK, but if an actual replenisher is used, you might be over-replenishing your developer, which will ultimately result in problems quite like the ones you're experiencing.
Do you happen to have a pH meter so you can check the developer pH against Arista's specifications? Not that pH tells the full story, but it's a useful indicator.

Concerning cross-contamination: only you are present when you're making these prints, so I can't judge what risks you may be running. In general, drums offer 'good' possibilities for contamination given their construction. I assume you rinse your tanks effectively (including the lid/light trap!!) before the next print.

Btw, your development sounds on the long side for an RA4 process. The usual parameters are 45 seconds at 100F. 95F is of course a lower temperature, but I'd be surprised if that would necessitate a time increase by >50%. Are your times according to the Arista specs? If so, the Arista stuff is definitely less active than big-brand RA4 developers, which surprises me greatly given how close color chemistry tends to be in terms of performance across manufacturers.

 

[John Salim]

Could you elaborate please?

You should be able to turn the lever to swing all the filters in or out of the light path.

So normally you would use 'white light' and fully open aperture to compose and focus.
Then you'd stop down and put the filters in for printing.

John S

 

[rcphoto]

No - a blue-green light.
And if you increase the amount of cyan, your print will move toward being more red, because red and cyan are complementary.

But wouldnt the yellow and magenta push it more "white"? That's what the color wheel would indicate would happen.

 

[pentaxuser]

Yes, to color I am still fairly new. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve more experience than a proper novice, but I am definitely still learning. I’ve been at it not quite a year.

Can we take it that within this period of not quite a year you have: 1. Always experienced this red cast or 2. this has only occurred in the last few days and it is this sudden change that has prompted your thread?

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[ashcorra]

Most color enlargers have a knob or a lever that moves the color filters out of the light path. Some people like this for focusing or printing in B&W without the dichroic filters. In some cases, it is easy to hit this lever without realizing it.

Just to update everyone, I found out what the issue was.

It turns out, I had several issues, most important one being, what rcphoto suggested. I thought I had checked this, but when I went back to look once more, it turns out that there are two levers, one on the front and one on the left side. I had checked the one on the left already and made sure it was in the correct position however, I hadn't realized that there was one on the front, as well. The one on the front, was indeed, turned in the wrong direction. It was in the "in" position when it should have been pointed towards the "out" position. It was the small lever on the front.

Thank you all, but a special thank you to rcphoto. You were right, man.

 

[rcphoto]

Just to update everyone, I found out what the issue was.

It turns out, I had several issues, most important one being, what rcphoto suggested. I thought I had checked this, but when I went back to look once more, it turns out that there are two levers, one on the front and one on the left side. I had checked the one on the left already and made sure it was in the correct position however, I hadn't realized that there was one on the front, as well. The one on the front, was indeed, turned in the wrong direction. It was in the "in" position when it should have been pointed towards the "out" position. It was the small lever on the front.

Thank you all, but a special thank you to rcphoto. You were right, man.

@BobUK and @John Salim said it first, I just tried to clarify. Glad you got it figured out! Happy printing!