My 1st time developing, and using Cinestill DF96

I'd appreciate some constructive criticism from the experienced members here.

My first-ever development was partial success, with some dire failures. As it is all new to me, and I was a bit nervous, I thought I'd play safe by developing the film in the CineStill monobath, which is getting great reviews. For agitation I did three full minutes at the correct temperature, turning the stick in the middle of the tank, four turns forward, four back, at a constant rate for three minutes. I used an Ilford wetting agent for the final flush, hung them up, and then did something I've seen others do successfully, but it might have had a negative effect: used my right-hand index and middle finger like tongs, just gently wiping the excess water off the film. I'm not sure if this was a contributory factor, but there is a band streaked across many of the shots, which is quite depressing. I let them dry overnight before scanning.

The film is Delta 400, the camera a Leica M-A with an old Elmar 50mm f/4 lens. I used an old Leitz yellow filter for two stops.

I'll give a good one, which I'm very happy with...



and a couple of not so good ones with the band...






Really, I only got one, maybe two decent shots out of the complete role. Perhaps the problem was some not-so-exact exposures when taking the shots, they all look to have more grain than Delta 400 usually gives. Or perhaps some light got into the developing tank? I have an AP tank and reels, which I had no problem with in the changing bag.

Here's one of the disasters:



Thoughts?

Rob

I would rewash and let them dry again without touching the film and use deminieralized water for the final washing.

Rob MacKillop said:

My first-ever development was partial success, with some dire failures. As it is all new to me, and I was a bit nervous, I thought I'd play safe by developing the film in the CineStill monobath... Perhaps the problem was some not-so-exact exposures when taking the shots, they all look to have more grain than Delta 400 usually gives. Or perhaps some light got into the developing tank? I have an AP tank and reels, which I had no problem with in the changing bag.
Rob

Click to expand...

I think you have done well for a first go developing a film Rob, so a pat on the back there.

As for the extra grain, I think it could be at least a couple of things in your workflow that have contributed.

First off the mono-bath. I've never used one (yet, but may make one up from scratch to use out of curiosity) but I have been reading a lot about them recently, both on the web and in my copy of 'The darkroom cookbook'. I believe them to be a 'trade off' in being only one liquid instead of three, which is especially attractive to those new to developing, like yourself. But, the other side to this is a lessening of quality, hence the grain.

Then there are the not quite so accurate exposures, which is something else that would enlarge the grain somewhat. The scanner software can also introduce more grain when compared to optical printing as well, so check out your settings on that.

As for using your two fingers to rid the processed film of most of the last bath, it is something that I and many others use, with no problems. But, it might be worth doing what BSP recommends, presuming that you haven't yet cut your film into strips. One can still reload the film to do it if so, it'll just be a bit more fiddly, and I should know, having done it myself quite recently. And the use of demineralised / purified water as the final bath, with just a drop or two of wetting agent is also recommended.

As for the lighter streaks on some frames, I too would suspect extra light getting in somewhere, before processing. I'm afraid only you can check out all of the workflow to see what may have caused it. But where on your film does it start? I ask as the first uploaded picture doesn't have it, so I presume this frame was at the beginning or end of the film? If it's the middle, I'm totally stumped.

Terry S

It could be that you need to re-fix the film. The undeveloped emulsion might not have been fully removed. In any case, a successful first effort.

Good luck,

Neal Wydra

Thanks, guys. I had cut the negs this morning before making the first post above, so washing them again is out. Actually, I washed them once yesterday afternoon, then at nearly midnight washed them again, hoping to sort the problem. But, I did not use demineralised water.

I now have an observation that might be important: all the frames that came out well are numbers 1 to 12, so they were at the centre of the developing spool. I recall opening the spool, and being impressed that the film was well circulated around the spool, so there was no bunching up. Which leads me to ask why the remaining frames were not developed so well? Is it an agitation problem? I just used the central stick (not sure of the technical term) turning it back and forth. Next time I'll try the slowly spinning method (ditto re technical term!).

I appreciate all the comments. If you haven't used a monobath before, I can well understand why you might point an accusatory finger in its direction, but other people get great results, so why not I? I know I'll get around to a more traditional method once this bottle has seen its last, but it is helping me get into developing, and raising what for me are interesting questions.

May we see the negatives themselves, rather than a scan?
Hold them up to a blank computer screen, and take a digital photo, being sure to include the edges.
I'm betting that the negatives aren't fully fixed, and the band reflects that. So I would follow Neal's suggestion.
I'm also not keen on using just the stick to rotate film in a tank. Even the manufacturer of Paterson tanks doesn't recommend using the stick for anything more than the first few seconds. Inversion agitation is more reliable.

Rob MacKillop said:

Thanks, guys. I had cut the negs this morning before making the first post above, so washing them again is out..

Click to expand...

If you do try and fix again then the strips will have to be washed but neither is impossible even if you have cut them up into strips. You can either push the strips back on the reel fix and wash while on the reel or place them into a tray with separate fix then tip the tray back and forth then pour out the fix and wash them in the same trays with running water or frequent changes of water.

When I see posts that say never use X( in this case monobath developer) it usually makes my hackles rise but in this case I think that separate developer and fix is the way to go

pentaxuser

Good idea. Thanks.