Muddy Kodak 320-TXP 4x5

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DougGrosjean

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I *think* that's the type of film. It's a 320-asa b/w film, that the local photo store sold me. I just wanted something to try in my new-to-me Burke & James press camera, it was cheaper than T-Max, so I bit.

I've got b/w souping experience in 35mm and 120 format. But in 4x5, the problem I'm running into is that unexposed areas never become clear. They look like coffee with cream.

I did get one batch of 6 negs where the un-exposed areas, using the Yankee tank and Ilfosol S - but got streaks. After that I tried Folgernol, D-76, Microdol, T-Max.... all the same. Tried going back to the Ilfosol-S (it's rare in the area where I live) and tray processing, and ended up with pink instead of clear un-exposed areas. With tray processing, I've gotten to where I can soup them and get decent density with no scratches - but still have the mud in the un-exposed areas.

I can scan the negs as if they're paper negs on a flatbed if they don't clear up, but shoot - the quality / resolution is a bit poor, with lo-contrast.

Any ideas?
 
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What type of fixer are you using? Do you test it before you use it? It is entirely possible that your fixer is nearing exhaustion and all of the unexposed silver isn't cleared.

- Thom
 
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DougGrosjean

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I'll mix up a new batch of fixer, and use that with Ilfosol-S.

I don't think light leaks are the problem - the first photos I took were long exposures (several minutes) and were consistent.

My darkroom is an interior bathroom, and I don't go in till after dark, and all lights in the house are off. So I *think* I'm OK there.

Thanks for the ideas - I'll check the fixer out shortly, and let you know if that was it. Got a hunch maybe it is....
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Milky pink would be a fixer problem. A magenta cast like you get with T-Max films is usually a combination of inadequate fixing and/or washing (more likely washing, and using Hypo Clearing Agent, Permawash or a sulfite bath will take care of it).

General low contrast might be underdevelopment and/or underexposure. I don't know Ilfosol-s, but Folgernol and Microdol-X are likely to produce less contrast, so I'd set those aside for now. It's probably best to get it under control with D-76, since that's a fairly standard developer that many people use with Tri-X.
 

PHOTOTONE

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I'll mix up a new batch of fixer, and use that with Ilfosol-S.

Thanks for the ideas - I'll check the fixer out shortly, and let you know if that was it. Got a hunch maybe it is....

If the film has been "under fixed" enough to not completely clear the negatives, then you can re-fix them in fresh fixer to clear them, and it won't hurt them at all. Be sure to hypo clear and wash just as if it were the first time you fixed them.
 

fhovie

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Fresh fixer whould make the non image areas really clear unless you pushed or fogged the film.
 

dmax

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Is the film fresh? If not fresh, how badly out of date is it? If the film is fresh, and assuming no source of fogging either in your film holders, camera, "darkroom", etc. then it's most likely a fixer-related issue.
 
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DougGrosjean

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Turned out to be the fixer. Mixed up a new batch, ran the negs through it, and Wow! Found out that all is well. Cleaned them right up; segs are sharp and crisp.

Thanks!
 
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For the future, take a small piece of film and see how long it takes for your fixer to clear it. Then double that time for adequate fixing.
Please note that if it takes longer than a minute or two to clear the film strip, your fixer is probably nearing exhaustion and it's time for a new one.

One member here has a very elegant approach. It's a two bath fixer. Identical fixer in both trays. Use up the first one until it's completely exhausted, since you have a second tray of fixer, the second bath will clear what the first one couldn't. When first fixer is exhausted, the second becomes the new first, and a fresh batch is mixed up for the new second bath. Complicated? - maybe. Fool proof - yes!

- Thom
 
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