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I am pretty much planning the same thing, trip to basecamp and then Gyoko. I am not 24 anymore though, I have 10 years on you. The trip is to be a 35th birthday present to myself actually. I would really like to hear more about your trip when you get back. It will give me a good idea of what I am getting myself into.
Maybe for kicks I should pickup a Retina and some kodachrome, it could be interesting.
Hi, I did this trek in 2005. It is a beautiful trek but there are some streneous parts, for instance the climb to Namche Bazaar on the second day took me about 2 hours. Going down took me less than 20 minutes!
I brought my Hasselblad with 50, 150 and 250mm lenses, lenshoods, 2 magazines, polaroids, a lightmeter. For film I brought Fuji Velvia 100F. All in all my camerabackpack weighed almost 10 kilos. Carriying this did not cause me serious problems but it was heavy and I sometimes wished I brought something lighter. Since you have the choice I would advice the lighter Mamiya 7 kit. If you have the time, go up to Gokyo as well.
My slides came out great. Some are on my page at www.flickr.com/photos/asialover. Go to the For the love of Mountains set.
Enjoy the trek but take it slow and don't go up to fast or you might suffer from severe altitude sickness. I made several treks in the Himalayas and met too many people with altitude sickness.
Thanks Chris. I have used Velvia 50 in the Himalayas (Ladakh) but I was not very satisfied with the results though I got some good photos with Velvia 50 in the Alps. The contrast is too much most of the times. Therefore I have not used the similar Velvia 100 as well. I have had good results with Provia 100(f) though it has a slight tendency towards blue. Velvia 100F does not suffer from this, has finer grain than provia 100f and can handle contrast better than Velvia 50.
I shot most of my mountain photos in the (early) morning or in the late afternoon.
Hi Chris, at that altitude I used a skylight filter. I experimented with a polariser in the Himalayas but I did not like the results. The colour of the sky became, in my opinion, a bit fake. At these high altitudes the blue sky already gets quite dark without the use of a polariser.
I use a Sekonic meter with an integrated spotmeter. I use the spotmeter when there is a lot of contrast and/or when I want to get a ridge in silhouet against a lighter slope/peak. I measure at the brightest spot or a blue sky and set the result on the camera. With slide film, you could also measure a white cloud and overexpose the measurement by 2 stops but try this first. For some effects I underexpose a bit, however in those cases I bracket about 3 photos.
However most of the times, I use the dome of the meter (ambiant light I think it's called, English is not my native language). If I am standing in the same kind of light as most of the landscape I want to photograph, this gives me fine results.
Slidefilm is not very difficult, just make sure you do not overexpose it since this gives very bad results. Expose only correctly or slightly underexpose and your pictures will be great. Try a few rolls before you go.
I used to be into climbing, and I had the pleasure of meeting Alfred Gregory a couple of times in the sixties, he was from Blackpool, and in those days was using Nikon Fs with plain prisms I can't remember if he used a meter or sunny 16, he showed me some slides he had recently shot in the High Andes in Patagonia on Kodachrome. The reason he used Kodak Film was they sponsored him,and he got it free, in exchange for endorsing their products.Alfred Gregory, the photographer on the Hillary expedition, used three cameras: a Kodak Retina II with Kodachrome 10 ASA film, a Rolleiflex with Kodak Plus-X and Panatomic-X and some Ektachrome and a '35mm Contax camera with interchangeable lenses' using mainly Kodachrome. The only camera he took above the South Col was the Retina.
His book, Photographs from Everest to Africa, is well worth buying. ISBN 9781 9209 8961 3
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