Mounting a 300mm Componon-S onto a DeVere lens panel

[Tom Kershaw]

I've been informed that in order to mount a 300mm Componon-S lens (with attached flange) to a DeVere lens panel for a 5108 enlarger, I need to remove the flange from the lens for the correct size hole to be cut in a lens panel from the flange. However, the flange on the lens seems very firmly attached, and I wonder whether the flange is actually integral with the lens.

Any ideas?

Tom

 

[Ian Grant]

No, they unscrew. I have the same lens/enlarger.

The flange screws to the lens panel, but personally I'd bolt it on then paint the bolts matt black. Mine has the flange attached by threaded screws, so you'd need to drill & tap the panel, and I think small nuts, washers & bolts would be more secure.

Ian

 

[Tom Kershaw]

When I try to unscrew the the flange, the rear element unscrews instead, so perhaps more force is required once the rear element is off. However, I haven't been able to budge the flange using only my hands.

Dead Link Removed

 

[Ian Grant]

You need to warm the flange, carefully, that helps. Not sure the best method though, and now you don't really need to.

Just measure that lip on the flange, that has to fit inside the hole you drill. Drill just under-size then file it out until it fits. Then With those rear elements unscrewed (as in the photo) you should be able to mark and drill the flange and secure it.

Ian

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Just measure that lip on the flange, that has to fit inside the hole you drill. Drill just under-size then file it out until it fits. Then With those rear elements unscrewed (as in the photo) you should be able to mark and drill the flange and secure it.

Assuming I get hold of a blank panel. The other option would be to purchase a custom drilled panel.


Thanks for the tip on warming the flange,

Tom

 

[Ian Grant]

I found it was cheaper to buy any reasonable second-hand board, in fact one for a 39mm lens, to mount my 240mm Rodagon, then drill that out.

You will find that the 300mm lens is a bit tight on focussing with 10x8 negatives, have you got a floor standing or bench mounted 5108 ?

Ian

 

[Tom Kershaw]

It's the floor standing model with the 30"x40" base board and I can rack the head up to the highest position.

Tom

 

[Ian Grant]

Good job, it's the same as mine. You need it - you'll find enlarging 10x8 negs around 10x8 - 12x16 with a 300mm quite strange at first as even a slight movement in height/focus has a far greater effect than with smaller enlargers & shorter lenses.

BTW I got a very good deal on bulbs for the head 2 years ago, when I'm next in the UK (SEpt/Oct) maybe we should purchase a bulk order along with a few others. I can't remember what I paid but it was about 25%-30% of the usual list price. (Of not off so for example £3-£4 instead of £12)

Ian

 

[Tom Kershaw]

BTW I got a very good deal on bulbs for the head 2 years ago, when I'm next in the UK (SEpt/Oct) maybe we should purchase a bulk order along with a few others. I can't remember what I paid but it was about 25%-30% of the usual list price. (Of not off so for example £3-£4 instead of £12)

That might be a good idea, I seem to remember paying £13 per bulb (Philips Focusline) when I bought a set of 4. I've read that on some enlargers when one bulb goes you have to replace all the bulbs, but I'm not sure if this is the case with the 5108.

Tom

 

[Ian Grant]

I've always replaced bulbs as they go, with no problem. I suspect that a very minor modification might lengthen the life of the bulbs very significantly. A small resistor to drop the voltage is used on some slide projectors and I'm sure the same can be done one for each bulb on the 510 for B&W use only 8. Does your enlarger have a timer that keeps the fan on for an adjustable time after each exposure.

The invoice (or delivery note) for my last bulbs is still attached to the box, I saw it last week but didn't look at the name of company, but I should be able to re-order at the same discount level.

Ian

 

[Tom Kershaw]

My timer is a standard DeVere unit with three time controls 10 secs, 1 sec, .1 sec connected to a DeVere 240V control unit. The fans come on when the power is turned on via the control unit; exposure seems to operate as a separate function. I would have thought it was advantageous to have the fans running constantly when the unit is on to dissipate heat from the head and bulbs.

 

[Ian Grant]

OK, my colour head has an adjustable relay that allows me to set a delay so the fan turns off immediately or up to 10 or 15 seconds after the lamps. This is probably non standard. It's an RS components relay I'll see what the circuit is in Sept/Oct.

Again some slide projectors had something similar built in to protect the lamp.

Ian

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Just measure that lip on the flange, that has to fit inside the hole you drill. Drill just under-size then file it out until it fits. Then With those rear elements unscrewed (as in the photo) you should be able to mark and drill the flange and secure it.

Ian,

How did you go about drilling the hole?

Tom.

 

[Ian Grant]

Tom I used a hole cutter, slightly under the final size, the type that fits a drill, I clamped the panel to a piece of old wood as it requires a pilot hole, then I filed the panel to fit with a medium/coarse half round file.

Ian

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Tom I used a hole cutter, slightly under the final size, the type that fits a drill, I clamped the panel to a piece of old wood as it requires a pilot hole, then I filed the panel to fit with a medium/coarse half round file.

A standard electric power drill? I wasn't sure if the hole would need to be machined out...

Are you referring to this type of hole cutter?:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/26065/Drill-Bits/Holesaws/Cobalt-Holesaws/Bosch-Cobalt-Holesaw-76mm

 

[Ian Grant]

Yes, the secret is in the final filing, that's what should be reasonably neat & precise. The holes on camera & enlarger lens boards are often quite crude because the lens flange forms the light seal, and the screws or nuts & bolts secure the flange & lens to the board.

Ian