Most Rugged, Long Lasting Nikon?

I'd like to know what the consensus is regarding Nikon's toughest camera built to date. I would like to buy another (the last, I promise) body and would like to know everyone's experiences with them. I am looking for a camera body that has good weather sealing, tough construction, reliability, long lasting exposure meter,and all for under $1000.00. (This excludes the F6 because of the price).

I know that Nikon makes tough cameras, but I am worried about getting a nice looking camera that is near it's end internaly. Examples:

The first Nikon F series (Photomic, FTN, etc). Great camera. Great reputation. Problem is that the metering cells ( if they still work) are about to reach the end of their lifespan. This would mean that I would be stuck with a beutiful camera with no metering.

The F2 (S, SB, Photomic, A, AS, etc.), again, great cameras but due to their age I don't expect their metering cells to be functional too much longer. Maybe a bit more life on the F2A and The F2AS, but not that much longer and parts are almost impossible to replace.

F3 series. Somewhat tough if it were not for the high copper content on the body and prism that makes it actually easier to ding and bend than other metal alloys. Also, the LCD display has a relatively short life and I have no idea where I could have it replaced.

F4 series. Late models including the F4S have better track record than earlier models of the F4. Will the multiple components stand the test of time? Will I be able to get a late model that had all kinks worked out?

F5 series. Looks tough. Looks well sealed. How many years will the metering and electronics work?

F100. I have heard stories about plastic components going bad with film advance.

My objective is to try to purchase an old Nikon pro body that will last for several more years. I know that it will probably depend on how well the previous owner took care of it, but I would like to know which would be the safest bet. Any advice or experiences you would like to share?

I’ve used most of the Nikon series, and I think the original F or F2 are the strongest internally. If you want the TTL meter, try the F2 with the Silicon diode meter. My F2Sb with the DP-3 meter prism for the pronged lenses still works great, or try the DP-13 meter prism for AI lenses. Several people do excellent repairs to the F/F2 and their meters, such as Pete Smith at FOTOCAMERA REPAIR (561-433-8434) or the F2 expert Sover Wong http://www.geocities.com/sover_wong/Nikon_F2_Repair_Service.html

I'd definitely say the 'F'. F2s have too many extra parts to break off. I dropped my F (when I had one, YEARS ago) two storeys onto concrete - it was fine apart from a ding in the corner.

Makes a good weapon if confronted by a thug or a bear, too!

the F. what a tank !

Definitely the F, a lifetime product and Nikon optics to boot. There are still metering parts and people that repair them. Second, the F2.

ctr

I second Sower for F2 repairs. Good fellow who takes pride in providing good service. The F meters are repairable, there's at least one guy who does repair on them (see www.cameraquest.com for more info on that).

I have the F2 and F3, and having handled the F4. I like the needle meter in my F2 Photomic. It's a heavy camera and as every camera it has its own little annoying quirks. If you need motordrives, an F3 or F4 would be better. And if you use glasses, the F3HP is good. And as for sturdiness, the F3P or the Titan version would stand some extra beating. But if you're looking at using a camera for say, 5 years on, I think any of the pro bodies would still be repairable, as there's parts cameras to go around for some time to come.

I think how well at ease you are with the camera and the overall condition of the camera is more important than anything.

resummerfield said:

I’ve used most of the Nikon series, and I think the original F or F2 are the strongest internally. If you want the TTL meter, try the F2 with the Silicon diode meter. My F2Sb with the DP-3 meter prism for the pronged lenses still works great, or try the DP-13 meter prism for AI lenses. Several people do excellent repairs to the F/F2 and their meters, such as Pete Smith at FOTOCAMERA REPAIR (561-433-8434) or the F2 expert Sover Wong http://www.geocities.com/sover_wong/Nikon_F2_Repair_Service.html

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Thanks for the link! I wonder if there is anyone out there that does with the F what Sover Wong does with the F2?

They're such different cameras. Is the absolute only consideration rugedness and life span?

The F's are tanks, but many are already old. Personally I'd try and splurge for lightly used F6, they pop up now and again for $1300. I think it'd last a LONG time. Barring that I'd find a great condition F5 for around $650 and then maybe a moderate one for $400. Then you have 2, which is always nice.

I shoot them. And I shoot them alot. And I beat them up alot. And they never so much as skip a beat. The only problem I know of is the rubber bodycover/grip on some of the earlier bodies loosens after heavy use and torqueing, but it can be fixed by Nikon reasonably or yourself easily.

But, the F5 is a far cry from the F, or even the F3.

(I talked to a fashion catalog shooter who shot serious serious quantities of 35mm years back, like 100-150 roll days, ( this is before digi), and he tried the Leica and Contax SLRs, but he literally chewed through their shutters. He said he went to a Nikon and never had problems again...he could have been full of it though...)

The toughest is a Nikonos, but I gather from your posting you only want an SLR. Also, the Nikonos takes lenses not common to other Nikon cameras.

The meter issues are one area that could be a problem on any older camera. Either age or heavy usage could mean a soon to be dead meter. However, your budget of $1000 encompasses many cameras, and you could actually buy two or more of some bodies, then shelve one if the meter fails, or use the extra bodies for parts.

There are more issues in the cameras than length of service. Most of the ones you are listing allow the viewfinder to be changed, which might be a feature you could find useful. However, that adds weight and size to each camera body. The F3 was sold new up until around five years ago, and the F4 only was discontinued around ten or so years ago. If you could find either in good shape, and not used by a photojournalist, then it would be reasonable to expect a long life from either. The F4 is much heavier, but the motordrive is built into the body. The advantage on the F3 is that it is light and nimble.

If you look at the FM and FE lines, the last of that line, the FM3A, might be something you could still find new, or barely used. Other newer models are the FM2 and FE2. The original FM and FE are quite old, but you could buy four or five of each in your budget. I still have an FM and FE that are working, both with serial numbers indicating they are over 25 years old. Both were recently used for photographing a jazz concert and worked flawlessly. Obviously a camera over ten years old might need new foam or back door seals, or even cleaning out the dust, but this is regular maintenance. The downside of these cameras are no autofocus, and a smaller viewfinder that cannot be changed, though you can change the viewing screen in all except the original FM. They are also not as weather sealed as an F4 or F5, but they are much simpler cameras.

You might want to check what your $1000 could buy at KEH in Atlanta Dead Link Removed

A heavily used F4, F4S, or F4E could experience a film transport failure, or possibly a shutter failure. Any camera with an LCD in it could have that LCD fade or fail at some point in the future, and I have seen a few well used F3 cameras with a dead LCD. If you don't mind an external lightmeter, the original F or F2 are interesting choices, though the Photomic meters are all becoming very old electronics. The F5 is actually simpler than the F4, and newer, but also heavier and switches to a command dials control system; so failure components in the future might be the command dials, or the LCD panels. Cost wise, it is interesting that finders for an F3 or F4 can often cost near what the cost of a complete used camera will run.

So you definitely have many choices. I think buying two or more bodies is the way to go, though as a professional I need that back-up gear; you might consider that option even as an enthusiast.

Ciao!

Gordon Moat
A G Studio

Just how tough do you want? And what other features do you need? Most older Nikons are pretty tough. I dropped an FE2 about three feet onto pavement a few months back with no real effect. My Nikkormat FTn has had a ding in the prism for decades with no effect. As for the Nikonos, last time I dropped my Nik IV it chipped the garage floor while lightly scratching the camera.

I still have and use the Nikon F that my father bought in 1967 in Ethiopia. Once, I dropped it at the airport of Beijing and it took a bit to have its meter repaired but like others have said, the thing is a tank!

I used to know a number of newspaper photographers who were notoriously hard on equipment, and they all swore by the F3. One dumped his Nikon stuff and went Leica R, and it didn't last a year. Hold sold it and went back to Nikon.

HerrBremerhaven said:

......your budget of $1000 encompasses many cameras, and you could actually buy two or more of some bodies, then shelve one if the meter fails, or use the extra bodies for parts.......I think buying two or more bodies is the way to go......you might consider that option even as an enthusiast.

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Excellent advice!

DBP said:

Just how tough do you want? And what other features do you need? Most older Nikons are pretty tough. I dropped an FE2 about three feet onto pavement a few months back with no real effect. My Nikkormat FTn has had a ding in the prism for decades with no effect. As for the Nikonos, last time I dropped my Nik IV it chipped the garage floor while lightly scratching the camera.

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By tough I am referring to the ability to perform under adverse conditions, deliver accurate results even after 100,000 shutter clicks, ability to withstand knocks without too much damage. I have several old Nikon bodies, some have withstood the test of time, others failed miserably.

Of the 2 FM2N's I have, one has had a meter problem ever since it took a slight knock while in my camera bag back in 1984. Just recently the hotshoe became loose as well after having been kept in a dresser drawer for several years. My other FM2N has worked flawlessly, meter still works, but I admit I don't use it much.

An F3 (non HP) I have is so beat up that it does not even have the shape of an F3 anymore! Back in the early 80's it had a problem with the film advance mechanism; you have to stroke it twice per frame and it does not return automatically. Also, for the camera to turn on it must be shaked several times. I have kept it for sentimental reasons all these years.

I currently use an F2A and F3HP regularly. Problem with the F3HP is that I fear it will look like my old F3 in no time, and I fear that my F2A (though it looks and feels like new) will quit unexpectedly due to its age. I would like to be able to use the camera on a daily basis, shooting several rolls per day under humid, hot, and sometimes cold conditions without worrying about camera failure.

What do you want to do with your gear?

If autoexposure isn't important, and autofocus isn't important, the F2AS is a great choice. The F2S is similar but has a non-AI meter coupling. It's better if you will be using non-AI Nikkors but not as good if you'll be using AF Nikkors.

If you can live without autofocus but want aperture priority automation and a more convenient motor drive system, the F3HP is a tremendous bargain. You can buy about four of them, each with their own motor drives, for your budgeted amount.

The F4 and F5 are also very tough. I'd get the F5 over the F4 - it's a lot more usable as an AF body. 8 fps if you use the NiCd battery pack, too. This is the one Nikon body that I don't have that I plan to buy. (They are so cheap now that I can justify it.) The F100 is nearly as good but a little more plasticky. The rewind fork problem you alluded to was fixed years ago.

Lots of good replies. I think without a doubt the old F/F2 series cameras are tanks. I had an early model F3, which turned out to be a piece of junk. I currently have an F5 that I love, but am lusting after an F6.

Unlike a few others, I've had great results with the F3. Of course I haven't had a 35mm in years...! But I thought the F3 was great. So listen - if it's a tradeoff you're looking for between technology and toughness... why don't you try getting an F3/T?? That was the model I had.

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/variations/f3t/index.htm

Forget the champagne, though. It's lame. Black is way nicer!

Each F got better. And stronger.

The F5 is the best of the lot.

I have to say the Nikon F2. If you are concerned about the meter pick the F2S, F2SB or F2AS. I don't think the meter will die before the camera does. If you think the F6 will last long enough but too expensive. I think the F5 would last just as long. I see nothing in the F6 that could make it last longer than the F5.

I have owned only one new Nikon. It was very trouble free. It had a fine reputation. Even its accessories were wll recieved in the professional market place.

I have no reason not to recommend a Nikon SP.

I'm curious as to why no one has mentioned the FM3A. Not a very tough camera?

The less electronics, the less trouble you will have.

For this reason, I would say F or FM. If you want the accuracy for framing, go for the F. If you want the convenience for using a light meter, the FM will do the job.

johnnywalker said:

I'm curious as to why no one has mentioned the FM3A. Not a very tough camera?

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The original poster was looking for opinions on the "professional" Nikon line. That isn't to say the FM3 was strong or tough, or even used by professionals.

FWIW, I've had an F since 1989 (64xxx serial number, won't mount later Photonic heads), and bought an F2AS when the F's shutter went right before a trip. The F2 has been rebuilt once (before I bought it), and been to the shop twice afterwards to correct some shutter-release issues, and I had the F rebuilt, so they're durable, but not immortal.

When I was in college, both the NYC photographer I worked for and my photographer-boss from the newspaper considered the F2 series to be "hypochondriacs" compared with the F or F3. Therefore, you may wish to consider a late-model F3, or the F5. The original F are a pleasure to use, but they are 40 years old.

I have used the Nikon F, F2, F3, F4, and Nikonos III. All are rugged dependable cameras.

When it comes to “long lasting,” I personally feel that manual/mechanical cameras have a longer life span than automatic/electronic cameras. My F2 with standard non-metered prism that I bought brand new in 1971 is still working 35 years later. Plus, it has never been to a repair shop. I am not sure if my automatic/electronic cameras will be working after 35 years.