Most diluted rapid fixer possible?

BetterSense · Sep 15, 2014

For a variety of reasons, I am using one shot fixer. This is actually pretty expensive. I have started using very dilute fixer that takes 10 minutes or more to clear. Is it safe to do this as long as I fix for twice the clearing time? Does anyone else use very dilute fixer and if so, how dilute? I have been using 45ml in 1l of water but thinking of going even more dilute.

frank · Sep 15, 2014

I use developers @ 1:100 because I'm happy with the results and happy with the economy of it. That being said, I do not and would not try he same with fixer because fixer is vital to archivalness. Use your better sense!

Bill Burk · Sep 15, 2014

I only once diluted my fixer to the point where it took over 10 minutes to clear.

The negatives were fine, but I don't want to repeat the experience.

What had happened was I mixed my last few ounces of concentrate into my last tray of a last run of film for the session...

I was plain old out of fixer.

And then as the trays floated around in the tempering bath, the little 5x7 tray with my last fixer wandered under the incoming waterfall...

I caught it as soon as I could, and just did what had to be done, waited for the film to clear then doubled the time.

snapguy · Sep 15, 2014

wait

All you have to do is wait. If your negs go blooey in 25 or 50 years, you know messing with the manufacturer's instructions is not a good idea.

bdial · Sep 15, 2014

If you're going to experiment with fixers you should also use a residual silver test to evaluate the timing and dilution.
But, there is no particular benefit to using fixer one shot. You can re-use it until it's spent and checking its status is easy to do by using hypo-check or similar compounds or timing clearing times.

RalphLambrecht · Sep 15, 2014

BetterSense said:
For a variety of reasons, I am using one shot fixer. This is actually pretty expensive. I have started using very dilute fixer that takes 10 minutes or more to clear. Is it safe to do this as long as I fix for twice the clearing time? Does anyone else use very dilute fixer and if so, how dilute? I have been using 45ml in 1l of water but thinking of going even more dilute.

Iexclusvely use film-strength 1+4 rapid fixer in the two bath regiminanything else may save cost but is a waste of my time as far as I'm concerned;money I have;time I don't

piu58 · Sep 16, 2014

From the viewpoint of the chemical equilibrium material is most completed fixed in soluten with the most content of free thiosulphate ions. This is the case if you use the fxer 1+4. More conecentrated fixer contains less free ions.
The difference in fixing effect between concentrated (i.e. 1+4) and diluted fixer is HUGE.

MDR · Sep 16, 2014

Don't underfixing or very weak fixer is not a good idea if you want to preserver your photographs for a longer time. Besides fixers are really cheap compared to other parts of the dev process large Fixer bottles for C41 are also often cheaper than purpose made B/W fixer.

polyglot · Sep 16, 2014

Why are you single-shotting your fixer? Changing whatever part of your process is forcing that would seem to be a better idea than gambling on your negative longevity.

At least do a residual silver test.

BetterSense · Sep 19, 2014

Convenience. Right now, I dont have to keep any bottles of fixer between sessions, and try to keep track of how many times it's been used. I don't need a funnel for pouring the fixer back into the bottle.

pdeeh · Sep 19, 2014

But might it turn out to be very inconvenient if it turns out all your film is improperly fixed and starts to deteriorate rapidly?

Pat Erson · Sep 19, 2014

BetterSense said:
Convenience. I don't need a funnel for pouring the fixer back into the bottle.

I don't either... I just use the top cap of my Paterson tank.

I've fixed my films at 1+9 dilution in the past. I had been given this tip by Helmut Newton's French printer Marc Picot. That was in 2000 and I was starstruck and I wanted to do like the pros do.
My negs suddenly turned brownish. I quickly returned to the 1+4 procedure. I don't know how Mr Newton's negs from the 80's will stand the test of time...

Xmas · Sep 19, 2014

MDR said:
Don't underfixing or very weak fixer is not a good idea if you want to preserver your photographs for a longer time. Besides fixers are really cheap compared to other parts of the dev process large Fixer bottles for C41 are also often cheaper than purpose made B/W fixer.

Depends where you buy the fixer...
And how you use it.
Bottled fix is new fangled.

Rodinal at 1+100 is pretty cheap, Microphen (or ID68 scratch mixed) more expensive.

Fix is important as is hypo clear, the negs from the WWII austerity ASW corvettes mostly archival.

Fix is not cheap.

I normally use anhydrous powder cause I shopping basket it home by 500gm or kilo, and it is lighter than water.

Shipping water is not CO2 friendly.

Rudeofus · Sep 19, 2014

Xmas said:
Fix is not cheap.

I normally use anhydrous powder cause I shopping basket it home by 500gm or kilo, and it is lighter than water.

Shipping water is not CO2 friendly.

First of all, while fix isn't cheap, neither is film. If your shots are worth your effort and the roll, you might as well spend something on making them last. Second, unless you somehow managed to get anhydrous Sodium Thiosulfate, you ship quite a bit of water (about 1/3 of total weight), whether you like it or not.

The best and most economical way to pursue analog photography is not cheaping out on materials, but instead thinking twice before taking a shot, and then taking only the good ones.

Most diluted rapid fixer possible?

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency