More RB67 Questions

k_jupiter · May 17, 2007

1.) What is the exposure compensation factor with an 82mm extender for 90mm, 127mm, and 180mm, lens?

2.) I have two bodies. One is labeled Professional, one is labeled Professional S.
The Professional seems to have darks slide interlock, the Professional S does not. This is contrary to the documentation I have read. Any Ideas?

3.) Where is the bast place to get foam kits for rb67 backs? How about the foam on the bottom of the mirror?

Thank you,

tim in san jose

reellis67 · May 17, 2007

1) http://www.mamiya.com/assets/pdfs/6x7/RB67_Pro-S_v7.PDF (page 28)

2) The backs have the interlock, not the body, so it sounds like you have the backs switched. It doesn't matter so long as you are OK with the arrangement.

3) Jon Gooman (Interslice on ebay). His $6 kit will do a number of backs as well as the body. Check his website for directions on doing the back. The process is simple and just about anyone can do it.

- Randy

Travis Nunn · May 17, 2007

Well, Randy pretty much said it all. I bought John Goodman's seal replacement kit and resealed both of my RB67 backs. John's a good guy, he'll answer any question you might have.

k_jupiter · May 17, 2007

reellis67 said:
1) http://www.mamiya.com/assets/pdfs/6x7/RB67_Pro-S_v7.PDF (page 28)

2) The backs have the interlock, not the body, so it sounds like you have the backs switched. It doesn't matter so long as you are OK with the arrangement.

3) Jon Gooman (Interslice on ebay). His $6 kit will do a number of backs as well as the body. Check his website for directions on doing the back. The process is simple and just about anyone can do it.

- Randy

Aye, Thank you. It looks like 1.5 to 2 stops exposure compensation. This would be on top of whatever the focus scale adjustment indicates?

I have 1 back marked ProS. It doesn't interlock on the ProS body. It does interlock on the Professional body. The 6x4.5 backs (not marked ProS) interlock only on the Professional body also, so hence is my confusion.

Thanks for the tip on Interslice.

tim

Travis Nunn · May 17, 2007

So if I'm reading this correctly, none of the film backs will attach to the ProS body? Is that correct? If so, does it have this attached to the back of the body where the film back would go?
Dead Link Removed

wirehead · May 17, 2007

Any RB67-mount back will attatch to any camera and function as a film back.

Interlocking for multiple-exposure-prevention and darkside-removal-reminding is a different matter altogether. And even with compatable cameras, it's a little flakey, so I suggest you not trust it.

k_jupiter · May 17, 2007

t_nunn said:
So if I'm reading this correctly, none of the film backs will attach to the ProS body? Is that correct? If so, does it have this attached to the back of the body where the film back would go?
Dead Link Removed

They will attatch. They just doesn't interlock the dark slide with the exposure button. I haven't tested the multi-exposure interlock yet. I do know that doesn't work on the Professional Body. I just wanted a sanity check to make sure I am not crazy. Well, not that crazy.

tim in san jose

epatsellis · May 18, 2007

oh, you are crazy Tim,
I started with one body and lens, and now have 2 pelican cases full....

erie

k_jupiter · May 18, 2007

epatsellis said:
oh, you are crazy Tim,
I started with one body and lens, and now have 2 pelican cases full....

erie

same here, and I started last Monday.

The stuff is so cheap, the tax return came in, I just couldn't help myself. I do know the last thing I want is a 65mm lens. Then I'll stop... I promise.

tim in san jose

epatsellis · May 18, 2007

now come on Tim, the first step to dealing with the problem is admitting you have a problem, you're still in denial, you've barely started anyway, when you are only missing a lens or two out of the entire range, and have multiples of more than 90mm or 127mm lenses, then it's time to get to MA (Mamiya Anonymous).

erie

Steve Smith · May 18, 2007

wirehead said:
Any RB67-mount back will attatch to any camera and function as a film back.

Interlocking for multiple-exposure-prevention and darkside-removal-reminding is a different matter altogether. And even with compatable cameras, it's a little flakey, so I suggest you not trust it.

I agree. I have a Pro SD body and two Pro SD film backs and I still managed to take three pictures of the darkslide before I realised.

Steve.

Steve Smith · May 18, 2007

k_jupiter said:
The stuff is so cheap, the tax return came in, I just couldn't help myself. I do know the last thing I want is a 65mm lens. Then I'll stop... I promise.

The next last thing I need for my system is a 180mm lens.

Steve.

David Brown · May 18, 2007

epatsellis said:
... you've barely started anyway, when you are only missing a lens or two out of the entire range, ..., then it's time to get to MA (Mamiya Anonymous).

I have 6 of the 7 focal lengths made for the Mamiya TLR! I've only had the RB for about a year and already have 4 lenses for it and shopping for the 360. I'm toast ...

Travis Nunn · May 18, 2007

I've had my RB for a little less than 2 years. I have the 65mm, 90mm and 180mm and to be honest, I don't want any more lenses. I had the 127mm lens (before dropping it in a stream) and it just never felt right, the 90mm seems to work better for me. I don't use the 180mm too often and I feel that anything longer would never get used.

But that's just me.

k_jupiter · May 18, 2007

David Brown said:
I have 6 of the 7 focal lengths made for the Mamiya TLR! I've only had the RB for about a year and already have 4 lenses for it and shopping for the 360. I'm toast ...

Ah David, you have cut to the chase. I have a C3 and a C220, a 65, 2 80's, 105, 135, and 2 180's. I just bought a prism for them and a parafinder. The rbs have a prism, two WLFs, three lens, and the 82mm extender. (a polaroid back was just incidental), and an extra microprism screen.

Time to go shooting. I guess the 65 on the C220 will be my backup field camera.

Me? Have a problem?

tim in san jose

David Brown · May 18, 2007

k_jupiter said:
Time to go shooting.

Yeah. I went out for an hour this morning with the RB and only used 3 of the 4. I mean, really ... :rolleyes:

ethylphenethylamine · May 24, 2007

Hello,

I just picked up a beautiful rb67 pro sd and have a question. Figured I'd add it to this thread instead of starting a new one...

On this table:

If I was shooing with a 140mm at 30mm Bellows extension I would subtract a 1/2 a stop.

Also what are the curves for?

k_jupiter · May 24, 2007

ethylphenethylamine said:
Hello,

I just picked up a beautiful rb67 pro sd and have a question. Figured I'd add it to this thread instead of starting a new one...

On this table:

If I was shooing with a 140mm at 30mm Bellows extension I would subtract a 1/2 a stop.

Also what are the curves for?

You would ADD 1/2 stop to your time or aperture. Perhaps it's just semantics? 2 seconds would become 3 seconds. The curves are for the focus scale on the left. Understand?

tim in san jose

David Brown · May 24, 2007

k_jupiter said:
You would ADD 1/2 stop to your time or aperture. Perhaps it's just semantics? 2 seconds would become 3 seconds. The curves are for the focus scale on the left. Understand?

tim in san jose

Tim is correct. As for the principle behind this: anytime you add bellows extention (or tubes for that matter), the effective aperture (f/stop) is smaller. So, you have to add exposure.

The labeling on these mamiya scales (the TLR has the similar thing) is indicating how much less "exposure" the extension causes. Meaning that one needs to add exposure to compensate. Clear as mud?

Travis Nunn · May 24, 2007

Of course if you use a metered prism with your RB, you don't have to worry about the scales.

jmdavis · May 24, 2007

t_nunn said:
Of course if you use a metered prism with your RB, you don't have to worry about the scales.

But you do have to worry about batteries. Still its better than a camera that will not operate at all without batteries.

Travis Nunn · May 24, 2007

jmdavis said:
But you do have to worry about batteries. Still its better than a camera that will not operate at all without batteries.

That is correct and that is why I have both a metered prism and a WLF so I have it covered

jmdavis · May 24, 2007

t_nunn said:
That is correct and that is why I have both a metered prism and a WLF so I have it covered

Then you must be 'da man.

I like the RB and thought about getting a metered prism (to go with the WLF and nonmetered ones that I have). But I've just gotten too used to using my spot and incident meters to bother.

Mike

Travis Nunn · May 24, 2007

Actually, I never use the WLF simply because all I've ever used in any of my cameras is a metered prism. I guess it's a comfort zone sort of thing. Even though it's heavy as hell, I love being able to use a metered prism with my RB.

In fact, I just bought my first light meter maybe 4-6 months ago. I still haven't used it more than a couple of times, though. I really should use it more often.

ethylphenethylamine · May 24, 2007

k_jupiter said:
You would ADD 1/2 stop to your time or aperture. Perhaps it's just semantics? 2 seconds would become 3 seconds. The curves are for the focus scale on the left. Understand?

tim in san jose

I understand the exposure, thanks, but I am still a little mystified about what it is trying to tell me about focus

Is it showing the change in the minimum focus distance with the bellows extension?

More RB67 Questions

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency