Moose versus plain Polarizer Filter?

Nick Zentena · Apr 10, 2006

Is there any reason not to get the Moose? The prices are pretty close and in some cases the Moose is cheaper. The 81a won't make that much of a difference will it? With negative film will I even notice it?

David A. Goldfarb · Apr 10, 2006

I guess the question is whether you always like to use a warming filter with a polarizer. I think the effect of an 81a filter is usually noticable with color slide film, but I don't shoot a lot of color neg. If you have two separate filters, you can choose, but if you always find yourself using them together (i.e., if you like the "Outdoor Photography" look), then it makes sense to use the combo filter.

mark · Apr 10, 2006

I only use my Moose polarizors. I have no idea where my regular nonwarming one is. I find the difference to be very noticable in neg and tranny

Nick Zentena · Apr 10, 2006

I'm a little suprised it's so noticable with negative film. I ordered one from some guy on Ebay now. If it's too strong I can get a smaller plain one later but I'd like two avoid buying to bigger polarizers.

mark · Apr 10, 2006

I see the difference because I deal with some serious shadows out here in the morning and evening. I did comparison shots when I got the moose and saw the difference. yes the biggest difference is with Transparency film.

David A. Goldfarb · Apr 10, 2006

If you're shooting at altitude in general, you might want a warming filter all the time in any case, so there are good reasons for it. Shade and overcast conditions call for a warming filter as well.

KenM · Apr 10, 2006

I only know one kind of moose, and it ain't something you put on a camera

Is a 'Moose' a brand of a type of filter?? Help me out here....

Mike Kennedy · Apr 10, 2006

3 kinds of Moose !

We have three kinds of moose here in New Brunswick. The antlered kind,the bottled kind (best ale in Canada) and a filter by Moose Paterson. Here's the web site Ken: www.moose395.net

Mike

KenM · Apr 10, 2006

Sorry, I'll stick with the rock in a bottle - Big Rock, that is

Thanks for the link - it's all good now.

Mike Kennedy said:
We have three kinds of moose here in New Brunswick. The antlered kind,the bottled kind (best ale in Canada) and a filter by Moose Paterson. Here's the web site Ken: www.moose395.net

Mike

naturephoto1 · Apr 19, 2006

Though I have never used a Moose warm polarizer, I have used a Tiffen Warm Polarizer, and at present I use Singh Ray Warm Polarizing filters.

I shoot fairly exclusively on transparency material, particularly Velvia and Provia 100. From my experience regular polarizing filters though they will add color back to a scene, they tend to be a bit cool and to have a bit of a blue cast which is particularly noticed in the shadow areas. The beauty of these filters is that they add the color back and they warm up the scene a little as well.

I have basically retired my regular polarizing filters for color transparency shooting- that includes my B&W and Heliopan polarizing filters.

I have also retired my Tiffen Warm Polarizer for most applications. I use the Singh Ray warm polarizing filters. They tend to allow more light through the filter, have less light loss, and tend to be sharper than even my B&W and Heliopan polarizing filters.

Singh Ray has a new Lighter Brighter Warm Polarizing filter that allows even more light through the filter with less light loss. I am saving up for this in the Cokin P Holder size so that I can use the filter with most of my lenses. I could use this filter with lenses with filter thread sizes of 40.5mm to 82mm. This will allow me to use the filter on all but 2 of my Leica R series lenses as well as all my 4" x 5" lenses (will also work on my Mamiya 7II lenses, but I had Singh Ray replace the glass in the special Mamiya polarizing filter for the camera).

By the way the Singh Ray Polarizing filters are glass and not resin. They are however expensive.

Rich

Dave Parker · Apr 19, 2006

In the area I do most of my shooting, I always have a warming filter on the lens, and yes, it does make a difference on print film, my warming filter has become as standard as my UV filters used to be...I have heard good things about the Moose, and am going to get a couple in different sizes to cover the lenses I shoot.

Dave

naturephoto1 · Apr 19, 2006

Satinsnow said:
In the area I do most of my shooting, I always have a warming filter on the lens, and yes, it does make a difference on print film, my warming filter has become as standard as my UV filters used to be...I have heard good things about the Moose, and am going to get a couple in different sizes to cover the lenses I shoot.

Dave

Dave,

Take a look at my comments about the new Singh Ray Lighter Brighter Warm Polarizer in the previous post. If you can use the Cokin P Holder (the P size Singh Ray Warm Polarizer will fit the circular slot at the back of the holder) this same filter (glass) can be used with a tremendous number of filter thread sizes with the proper adapters. This may prove as or more economical and lighter than buying multiple Moose filters. Additionally these Singh Ray filters will have less light loss particularly useful for those of us focusing through large format (particularly f6.8 and f9.0) lenses.

Rich

anthroboi · Apr 19, 2006

Great thread. I was just going to post a question about polarizers and warming filters. If you haven't caught my other post, I'm going to Antigua & Barbuda for a month and I'm bringing my Canon EOS 300 (Rebel 2000), a warming filter and a circular polarizer. I'm planning on stacking the filter and polarizer, as I'm just using the kit lens (35mm-80mm). Will this be okay, without worrying about vignetting? Also, I've read in a few websites that I should stop up (?) in order to let in enough light (the recommendation varies from place to place). But if I'm using the above camera and using the TTL metering, do I need to worry about this or can I just adjust the exposure so that the meter is in the middle?

Please forgive my lack of technical knowledge, I'm still learning about photography and although I did a fair bit of reading and research several months ago, I need to re-read everything My brain can only hold so much at once, and until exams are over, it's all anthropology I'm afraid.

D-

naturephoto1 · Apr 19, 2006

anthroboi said:
Great thread. I was just going to post a question about polarizers and warming filters. If you haven't caught my other post, I'm going to Antigua & Barbuda for a month and I'm bringing my Canon EOS 300 (Rebel 2000), a warming filter and a circular polarizer. I'm planning on stacking the filter and polarizer, as I'm just using the kit lens (35mm-80mm). Will this be okay, without worrying about vignetting? Also, I've read in a few websites that I should stop up (?) in order to let in enough light (the recommendation varies from place to place). But if I'm using the above camera and using the TTL metering, do I need to worry about this or can I just adjust the exposure so that the meter is in the middle?

Please forgive my lack of technical knowledge, I'm still learning about photography and although I did a fair bit of reading and research several months ago, I need to re-read everything My brain can only hold so much at once, and until exams are over, it's all anthropology I'm afraid.

D-

Hi,

Bob Singh (Singh Ray) says to put the Polarizing filter closest to the film plane. Put the warming filter on the outside of the Polarizing filter. The inboard meter should read through the filters. However, I normally and many other photographers will reduce the polarization a bit from maximum to avoid an almost steel blue sky.

Rich

roteague · Apr 19, 2006

I haven't used the Moose filters. I primarily use a Tiffen Warm Polarizer, but I am considering a replacement for it - I need an 86mm filter.

naturephoto1 · Apr 19, 2006

roteague said:
I haven't used the Moose filters. I primarily use a Tiffen Warm Polarizer, but I am considering a replacement for it - I need an 86mm filter.

Hi Robert,

Ouch. What lens are you using that requires an 86mm thread? The only thing that I would have would be if I would use my Heliopan Center ND filter on my Rodenstock f6.8 90mm Grandagon N MC lens (the only exception if I get it repaired would be 112mm thread size for my Leica R f2.8 Apo Telyt).

Rich

roteague · Apr 19, 2006

naturephoto1 said:
Hi Robert,

Ouch. What lens are you using that requires an 86mm thread?

It's for my Schneider 3b Center Filter, which I use on my Schneider 80mm XL.

naturephoto1 · Apr 20, 2006

roteague said:
It's for my Schneider 3b Center Filter, which I use on my Schneider 80mm XL.

Hi Robert,

Same problem as me. But, at least for the time being I am not sure if I want to use them together. Also, according to Bob Singh, the Polarizer is supposed to go closest to the film plane of all the filters. So I am not sure what to do then using a Center ND filter.

Also, check my posting in this thread about the new Singh Ray Lighter Brighter Warm Polarizer in a Cokin P size will fit the rear slot on a Cokin P Holder and with the right adapter rings fit filter thread sizes to 82mm.

Rich

roteague · Apr 20, 2006

naturephoto1 said:
Hi Robert,

Same problem as me. But, at least for the time being I am not sure if I want to use them together. Also, according to Bob Singh, the Polarizer is supposed to go closest to the film plane of all the filters. So I am not sure what to do then using a Center ND filter.

Hi Rich,

That is the same thing that Schneider says about the center filter - place it closest to the lens. I've got an el-cheapo polarizer that fits it now, but I haven't used it more than once or twice - 3 1/2 stops is a lot of light to loose. Like you, I am on the fence about using this combination.

One other option is to use the Lee 105mm polarizer and an 81A. Nice thing about the Lee holder is you can easily take off all the slots except one, if you choose; the polarizing filters fits on the outside of the holder. But, the only one who sells this filter that I am aware of is Robert White in the UK.

naturephoto1 · Apr 20, 2006

roteague said:
Hi Rich,

That is the same thing that Schneider says about the center filter - place it closest to the lens. I've got an el-cheapo polarizer that fits it now, but I haven't used it more than once or twice - 3 1/2 stops is a lot of light to loose. Like you, I am on the fence about using this combination.

One other option is to use the Lee 105mm polarizer and an 81A. Nice thing about the Lee holder is you can easily take off all the slots except one, if you choose; the polarizing filters fits on the outside of the holder. But, the only one who sells this filter that I am aware of is Robert White in the UK.

Hi Robert,

I also have the Lee holder. By the way, I just went to the B&H website. They list 3 Polarizing filters to fit the holder:

1) The circular 105mm Polarizer that you mentioned - $300
2) Circular 4x4 Polarizer - $179.95
3) Linear 4x4 Polarizer- $159.95

http://tinyurl.com/z9lf3

Rich

John Koehrer · Apr 20, 2006

I'm curious, who makes his product? It's probably not something like Satin Snow, where Dave is directly involved in the production but more like Tiffen or Hoya doing a private label job for Moose.

Nick Zentena · Apr 21, 2006

It's a Hoya product. Not even private label. It's Hoya all the way. The idea I guess came from Moose but it's made and sold by Hoya.

NJH · Oct 25, 2017

Thread resurrection rather than asking this question a new.

I have just recently bought an 81A and a CPL to cover the lenses on a camera system I started shooting earlier in the year. It seems a fair few people just like to use these filters together, hence the Moose filter. However I can see more or rather different use cases for each. I shoot a fair bit of Provia 100f and can see looking at the results to date I could benefit from using the 81A a lot of the time, here in the UK especially with the low sun and if not directly behind a (rare now) golden sunlight scene, as it only seems to be in those conditions that Provia has a nice balance of colours, it really does like to go cold IMHO. The CPL though is something I have never kept on as a matter of course thus my natural tendency would be to want to put the 81A on as a matter of course on some days, and only fit the CPL when perpendicular (or near enough) to the sun, there is enough light to be OK with the light loss etc. etc. However the points above indicate that stacking a CPL on top of an 81A is not ideal, well how bad is this in practice? I haven't stacked these yet as the 81A is new to me, as a youngster I didn't shoot much colour film with any intent back in the day other than to capture snapshots. In my case this would be Hoya and Marumi 67mm filters on a bay 6 adapter on 60 to 250 Rolleiflex 6000 lenses, so I guess similar situation to those filters on the equivalent Hasselblad bay 60 lenses.

Moose versus plain Polarizer Filter?

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Moose versus plain Polarizer Filter?

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