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monobaths

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Crawley's FX6a works well with paper but you'd need to play around with the Thiosulphate level (70-125g)and perhaps add bromide or benzotriazole, additional Hydroquinone increases the bcontrast as does lowering the Thiosulphate

Monobath FX6a
normal speed

Hydroquinone 12 gm
Phenidone 1 gm
Sodium sulphite (anhyd) 60 gm
Sodium hydroxide 10 gm
Sodium thiosulphate 90 gm
Water to 1000 cc

I did a lot of work on Monobaths commercially in the late 1970's and we had planned to market one specifically for papers, I've got my notes somewhere in storage

Ian
 
Ralph, why do you want to use a monobath rather than a regular developer, stop-bath and fixer? :eek:

i need a cost effective alternative to large-format polaroidsand hope to get this from direct-positive papers developed in monobaths!thoughts?
 
I can't see why it shouldnt be possible and you could ajust the monobath to control contrast, you'd need to experiment to seeby how much.

Ian
 
Haist in "The Monobath Manual" gives a formula for processing papers. I can post it if anyone does not have access to this book.
 
i need a cost effective alternative to large-format polaroidsand hope to get this from direct-positive papers developed in monobaths! thoughts?
I think I see what you are trying to achieve. I thought that may be this paper would be a better choice, until I realized that it was fibre-based, not resin-coated.

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/product.asp?n=65&t=Photographic+Papers

My thoughts are that some pre-flashing of the papers before the camera exposure might be a better way of controlling contrast? A soft working metol developer like Ilford ID-3 diluted more than usual may also help.

A yellow filter on the camera lens would act as a low grade number filter too for multigrade.
 
keith,
you are right, and that is exactly what i do. iuse either a yellow filter on the taking lens ora self-madepre-exposure filterrto reduce contrast
. now i want to make a plastic daylight tank to develop the paper within a minute or two. this way, i won't need the expensive polaroid any longer.
 
I think you have a brilliant idea, Ralph.

You could use a plastic paper safe as a daylight tank.

Let us know how it works!

Peter Gomena
 
Instead of a tank, maybe you could simply use a black lightproof bag like the ones the paper came in.
 
Why not red plastic or acrlyic tank? If the red coloring was a strong enough filter you could basically develop your paper in daylight!
 
Haist devotes an entire chapter to monobaths for papers and gives several formulas. I picked the following one since it contains no exotic ingredients. It was designed for machine processing where the paper is not agitated in the solution for the first 45 sec to insure good contrast and blacks. Then the paper is agitated constantly for 15 sec to insure proper fixing, after which it is washed. It seems this can be easily done without resorting to a machine. As with all monobaths some tinkering may be needed with the formula for the particular paper used.

Roman Monobath For Papers

Sodium carbonate 30 g
Sodium sulfite 20 g
Ascorbic acid 10 g
Phenidone 1g
Potassium bromide 1 g
Sodium thiosulfate25 g
5-Phenyl-1-mercaptotetrazole 0.05 g
Water to make 1l

R. A. Roman, U. S. Pat. 110,595 (1963)
 
And who sells 5-Phenyl-1-mercaptotetrazole, and what does it do in such a small quantity?
 
And who sells 5-Phenyl-1-mercaptotetrazole, and what does it do in such a small quantity?

It's a restrainer and is probably used to adjust image tone. I would first try Eastman Chamical Co.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Before Haist published his two books on photographic chemistry he wrote a book called The Monobath Manual. The formula appears in Chapt 6. A used copy is usually available from places like Amazon for around $10.
 
I am unfamiliar with trion 100, is it a commercial antifoggant?
 
Did you mean Triton X-100 which is a common surfactant?
 
keith,
you are right, and that is exactly what i do. iuse either a yellow filter on the taking lens ora self-madepre-exposure filterrto reduce contrast
. now i want to make a plastic daylight tank to develop the paper within a minute or two. this way, i won't need the expensive polaroid any longer.
Depending on the format, a Paterson Orbital could be ideal. But do you really need to use a monobath? I am not aware of any monobath will complete within 2 minutes.
 
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