Moersch Tanol Stand Development, Most diluted, No agitation on Polypan F 50 ASA

I have 13 rolls of Polypan F 50 ASA not Ilford brand and I am buying Moersch Tanol 100ml x 2 developer set. Film comes in 100 ASA canisters and camera is Leica Mini 2 with 35mm Elmar.



PS: AFTER ALL I WILL DX CODE THE CANISTERS FOR 25 ASA AS BELOW POST FROM BERNARD.
ps 2 :I NEED POLYPAN F 25 ASA SET FOR FILM IN TANOL STAND DEVELOPMENT DETAILS AFTER ALL.

I want to use stand development and 1 hour or more is not problem.

Weather is around 25 celcius and summer time more than 30.

I need your advise on dilution- I prefer most diluted-,temperature and keeping temperature firm ,
agitation- I read no agitation have an special edge effect - and timing. And anything you know is always is so important.

Umut

Looking at the data sheet for Tanol, most or all films are rated at less than their nominal speed; e.g. HP5 at 200.
http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/files/articles/Tanol ENGLISH 23-4-2014.pdf
So, exposing your 50ASA film at 100ASA is a step in the wrong direction. Expect muddy shadows. Stand development will not make miracles with the sensitivity. Proposed solutions:
a) Use the +2 exposure correction on the Leica Mini 2 for all pictures;
b) find out about do-it-yourself DX labels (google) and affix proper 50ASA labels on your films. Even so, at 50ASA, your film may not have enough exposure for Tanol; Polypan F-50 is not documented in the Tanol data sheet.

Thank you Bernard ,

And all , I need answer for stand development details in tanol of 50 asa polypan f set in 25 asa

Umut

Why not do a personal ISO test and develope the method you choose, then assess the negatives to make adjustments. No matter what anybody else does or uses, the ultimate decision as to what you do, is yours alone to determine.

Rick ,

If I am not wrong, for test , I need a adjustable camera. I have only Leica Mini II and Mini Zoom and you cant do anything like such a test.
But may be I am wrong , if anyone shares a post for such test , I would be glad.

Umut

You could photograph the same thing several times, cut the film into strips, and develop each strip differently to determine your development times. You would need a base time to start with, though, an I can't help there. Just find a published time for something close to 25 ISO in that developer, and make each test development a different time. (I'm sure someone has a better idea, though.)

Good thought Truzi. The film could be cut to four lengths and dev one each at 30, 45, 60, and 75 minutes to see which is closest to optimal time, and tweak from there.

Have you sen this: http://filmphotographyproject.com/polypan-f-what-it-how-process

Truzi,

I remembered now , I have a Olympus XA , I found an Magnum photographer made exceptional trip in Switzerland and documented people and mountains. I think it is a very good camera with good processing. Its ASA setting is adjustable down to 25 asa and could be usable for my rollei 35s to play with speeds. I have no manual camera with working lightmeter.

Thank you,

Umut

Rick,

Thank you , Let me read it. I am waiting any report of experience from you all.

Umut

Polypan F Tanol 1+1+100 32ASA 12minutes 24C Agitation per 1 minute

Darko made it clearer , its a one shot developer , comes with droplet apparatus , an leica mini 2 can be set 1 stop slower.

Darko Saric helped me a lot and I am very happy to see his photographs and personally know him

Umut

Tanol used in Stand development

Hi,

I have a video showing some X-ray 10x8 stand developed in Moersch Tannol, hope it helps. I will be making some further videos showing my stand development process in more detail in the very near future, but this overview should help and you can see the quality of the negatives to be had. The video is here if you are interested

http://youtu.be/iMN0zKxijJo

If you take the time to check it out I would love to hear what you think

Best wishes

Dave Smith

btw, I use 6ml (3 each of A&B) in a litre of water and semi-stand for an hour with vigorous agitation at the half way mark (vigorous to avoid Bromide drag)

Tanol Stand Development for X Ray, Large Format and 35mm Film

macgabhan said:

Dave Smith

btw, I use 6ml (3 each of A&B) in a litre of water and semi-stand for an hour with vigorous agitation at the half way mark (vigorous to avoid Bromide drag)

Click to expand...

Hi Dave,

Thank you for your excellent reply and your video was excellent also.

Let me ask you a question, if I am not remember wrong, stand development without any agitation would give special qualities at the edges so the tanol catechol developer.

If I dont agitate the developer, would I double that edge effect, one from the pyro developer and other one from the non agitation or does it only a wishful thinking ?

Second, LF photographers spends lots of efforts to deciding on timing of development, with charts, calculators, graphs, spot meters.

How do you decide on stand development time, dillution, agitation, temperature referencing above struggle ?

But as you point , bromide is a threat. Is there a way to pass that effect when keeping the edge effect at the
top ? How much or how do you describe vigorous agitation ?

I have only Paterson Tank System 4 35mm Tank only accepts 290 ml developer. I am thinking 1.5 A drop + 1.5 B drop + 300 ml water. How does that little tank effects all the process ?


Thank you and I will subscribe to your stream.

Take care and I loved everything in your video, xray negatives were excellent

Umut

Hi Mustafa

Many thanks for your kind comments and for taking the time to look. I will be posting more videos on stand development in due course, to show the actual wet process. For the edge effect of stand I think that you still see that with semi-stand, though the effect is quite subtle (a bit like not over-doing the USM in photoshop). If you wanted to use full stand I think that you might be able to obviate the Bromide drag by using very dilute solutions and extending the time (maybe two hours) though I haven't tried this regime since I like what I am getting with my current protocol.

All that messing about with charts, times, temperatures etc is really a thing of the past with stand development - when I started with this method it felt a bit like cheating! But really, the results speak for themselves in my opinion (I will also be doing a video to try to explain sensitometry, though not mathematically but visually instead).

The idea with stand (or semi-stand) is to use just enough developer for the area of film being developed (the dilution doesn't matter) and since a roll of 35mm has the same area as a roll of 120 and the same asa sheet of 10x8 then the amount of developer is the same and this is typically around 5 or 6ml - there are people who use significantly less than this. So for your 35mm film I would use 5ml of Adonal and then 300ml of water, or 3+3 of the Tanol, but why not try smaller amounts. For temperature I just want to be sure it is reasonable not too cold or hot so as to shock the film, I use tap water. The agitation is easy with the Patterson tank I just use half way inversion reasonably quickly for about half a minute. I had some experimentation with 10x8 in a tray (I think I showed this on the video).

I hope that this helps?

Best wishes

Dave

I hope that this helps?

Best wishes

Dave

Click to expand...

Good evening Dave,

Thank you for your help. I saw an image at gallery and it was 1 hour stand developed rodinal and contrast was the highest I have ever seen.
Do tanol do that max contrast with 1 hour stand ? Frankly , I love greyish sky , sweet like choclate diffused look ?
What do you advise to me ?

Best,

Umut

Hi Mustafa

I see no real difference between Adonal and Moersch to be honest

Dave