Moersch Tanol Film Developer

[arealitystudios]

Hello All

So I was thinking about giving Moersch Tanol Film Developer a try with some 35mm film. I'm primarily a Rodinal user and I love the results I get with it in 120, but somehow in 35mm it just doesn't have the same quality. I think it's time I start looking at some other options. I'm not looking for something similar to Rodinal but rather something with a whole new look. Expanding ones horizons is healthy after all.

My main question is this - according to the spec sheet you should mix the two chemicals, 1+1+100. So in a 500 ml tank would that be 2.5ml + 2.5ml of chemistry and the rest water? Or would that be 5ml + 5ml of chemistry and the rest water?

Also, does anyone out there have any experience with this stuff or any tips? I'll of course be doing a few test rolls before I shoot anything important but its nice to get some feedback from experienced users before jumping in.

Thanks!

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

5+5+500.

Have not used the chemistry itself.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

Thomas is right. 5+5+500.

 

[Venchka]

What they said. Mix it just like Rodinal.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Wolfgang Moersch is on APUG as well. He's always very gracious about sharing information. Send him a PM. Or check out the Moersch Photo Chemie web site. I'm sure you'll find useful information there.

- Thomas

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/content/shop/negativ/36/tanol

Lots of info here with examples even.

 

[Markus Röhling]

My main question is this - according to the spec sheet you should mix the two chemicals, 1+1+100. So in a 500 ml tank would that be 2.5ml + 2.5ml of chemistry and the rest water? Or would that be 5ml + 5ml of chemistry and the rest water?

5 ml + 5 ml + 500 ml

I like this developer very much.

Markus

 

[Angelo di Mango]

Excellent developer. i love it with Fp4+ and no loss of speed!

 

[rst]

I use Tanol to develop ADOX CHS 100 which I use in my 4x5 pinhole camera. This gives negatives which can be printed on grade 2.5 or 3 and the same negatives can be used for kallitypes with only a little of dichromate in the developer to increase contrast a bit. So the stain blocks UV light pretty well.

I like it.

And my daughter likes it because it changes color from yellow to brown to green to clear when mixing it and to whatever color when it comes out of the development tank Every once in a while she asks me "When are you going to develop some film in that funny chemistry again?"

Cheers
Ruediger

 

[arealitystudios]

And my daughter likes it because it changes color from yellow to brown to green to clear when mixing it and to whatever color when it comes out of the development tank Every once in a while she asks me "When are you going to develop some film in that funny chemistry again?"

hahahahaha, oh I'm going to love this stuff then. I know its strange, but I use CHS 100 sometimes purely because I love the pretty dark blue that comes out of the tank after a pre-wash in the 120 version.

 

[Hamster]

I read conflicting information about the type of fixer that can be used with Tanol. On a datasheet I found on retrophotographic, it says I should used an neutral or Alkaline fixer, however, a pdf I read on Moersch website says acid fixer is OK.

Can anyone comment on this?

Also has anyone got good result with Txi-X using Tanol? Now that we are heading into the autume, I am moving to faster films. Thanks!

 

[Ian Grant]

Fixers like Hypam/Ilford Rapid Fixer, Kodak Rapid Fixer are fine with most staining developers. Just don't add hardener that does contain more acid usually. The pH of these fixers is around 5.2-5.4 which is not really particularly acidic.

Steve Anchell in his Darkroom Cookbook uses common everyday things as examples of pH and says Black Coffee has a pH of 5, which is nowhere close to what we commonly call acids, even weak ones like Acetic acid/Vinegar pH 2.9 or Citric acid/lemons pH 2.2. both of which are used as stop-baths.

Sandy King has posted that these fixers are fine with Pyrocat, and Wolfgang Moersch wouldn't put that on his website unless he thought similarly. But a water rinse is possibly better than a stop bath.

Ian

 

[Hamster]

Thanks Ian, that pretty much answered my question. The water wash is a good point, I use citric acid as a stopbath at the moment.

I use the cheap (and good) ADOFIX fixer from Fotoimpex, in the German forum Wolfgang Moersch describe it as "fettes", roughly translate as "rich", but he was talking about it on another issue other than Tanol. Will experiment with it and see if it works.

 

[Marcus S]

Check out the website of Wolfgang Moersch. It can be viewed in english as well.

www.moersch-photochemie.de

There are several pages of information regarding Tanol Seed and how it performs with each individual film.

I have used Tanol Speed with several different films and I am delighted with the results. The tonal range that can be achieved with this developer is fantastic.

I just made a few prints of Rollei Retro 100. (exposed to one of his recommendation at iso 250)
The prints are awesome!

 

[Hamster]

Does anyone know how long Tanol solution will last once mixed with water and ready to use?

I have a large batch to do and would like to mix it and leave it overnight to reach room temperature. It would be perfect if that keeps for 24 Hours.

 

[Marcus S]

I bring demineralized water to development temperature first, then I add A & B of Tanol since most of the final solution is water.
24 hours might be a stretch, but I am sure that Wolfgang Moersch will answer your question. He has been very helpful when I needed advice.
I know that Finol developer should be used right away according to his recommendations.

 

[5stringdeath]

Reviving an old thread instead of starting a new one ....

Just started using Tanol with my 120 films. I'm really liking it with Acros at the moment. Haven't done enough shooting with my 400 films yet

Not sure I'll use it with my 35mm work.

 

[r-brian]

I've, too, just started using Tanol. Decided to try it because it is supposed to have a better shelf life than DiXactol, the only other tanning developer I've tried. This week, I just did a 35mm roll of FP4+ (EI 100) and one of HP5+ (EI 200). Both shot the same day in bright sunlight and snow covered landscape. Both rolls look very good. I'll still keep my Rodinal and HC110, but Tanol definitely is a keeper.

 

[maart]

With stop-bath and acid fixer from staining was not much to see anymore. The negatives, 120 Plus-X, became very thick. When I changed to alkaline fixer and replaced stopbath by waterbath the staining was beautiful, and the character of the negatives very nice. Now I use it instead of Rodinal. Better mid-tones, clear but beautiful grain.... For me much better than Rodinal. HC-11o I should even like to try....

 

[Роберт]

Yes, FINOL is a very nice staining developer. It works great on a lot of different films. I have used a Citric Acid stop bath 1,5% and a water bath in combination with the RXN fixer (Neutral) of Rollei. I found no difference in stain with or without the weak acid stop bath.

 

[Marcus S]

With stop-bath and acid fixer from staining was not much to see anymore. The negatives, 120 Plus-X, became very thick. When I changed to alkaline fixer and replaced stopbath by waterbath the staining was beautiful, and the character of the negatives very nice. Now I use it instead of Rodinal. Better mid-tones, clear but beautiful grain.... For me much better than Rodinal. HC-11o I should even like to try....

According to the instructions that comes with Wolfgang Moersch's Finol developer:

Base fog will increase with increased watering time.
6 min. watering time recommended.

Tanol and Finol are my most used developers. In my last order I received 2 syringes that work super for measuring small amounts of developers.

 

[Wayne]

According to this (which I can't verify), Finol has BOTH catechol and pyro. That's interesting. (there was a url link here which no longer exists)