Modify Hasselblad 100-250 Lens Shade to fit 50mm FLE?

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declark

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I currently have a 38-60 shade that fits my 50mm FLE but it is worn and doesn't stay firmly attached to the lens. I also have a spare 100-250 shade that is in excellent condition in that regard. I always felt the 38-60 shade is a bit shallow to provide much protection for the 50 lens and since it works with the 38 I suspect this shade could be a bit longer. If I were to trim the 100-250 down for the 50 could I go a bit longer without vignetting. I am not sure how to calculate the length other than trial and error. Has anyone else done this before and have a length you could suggest? Thanks for any advice.
 

brucemuir

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Hey Declark,
I do seem to remember a thread somewhere about modifying or making a hood but it may be over at www.photo.net in the archives.

I for sure don't remember what lens/hood combos that came up but the thread was fairly extensive so it may be worthwhile searching and weeding through the info.
Heck, there probably is some pertinent info on apug also.

I have the round style stock Hasselblad lenshood for the older 50mm "C" lens. I would say I could measure it for you but I doubt it would be of any help.

I was thinking you might be able to get the depth measurement off a pro shade but that wont work either because the outer dimensions would be different.

Good luck and I'd try searching for awhile both here and on photo.net if you haven't already.
 
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declark

declark

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Thanks Bruce. Maybe the dim from your round one might be a good starting point if it's not to much trouble for you.
 
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declark

declark

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Well after 2 years finally got around to modifying this dude this morning. Picked up an 80 CF lens recently, so now the modified hood can serve double duty, although not ideal for the 80. I stuck primarily to the overall length of the 38-60 hood, might be a few thousandths longer. After drafting up a crude sort of ray trace (I'm no optics expert) it looked like even the 38-60 might tend to vignette given a horizontal angle of view of 58.5 degrees for the furthest ray at the edge of the front element, so figured I'd just stick with this length to be safe and avoid trial and error.
 

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