Mixing D-76

[Frank R]

I am about to develop my first film since I was in high school in 1981. I just took three shots of 9x12 EFKE 100. I will be using D-76 mixed 1:1 in a Unicolor drum and roller base.

I plan to do these first sheets one at a time so I can learn the process.

Since this is a small batch of film:

How should I mix the D-76? Should I mix up a whole package and make 1/2 gallon of developer? Or should I mix a half or a quarter of a package at time? If so, do I then store the unused powder in a sealed glass jar?
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How do I calculate how much developer, stop bath, fixer, and photo-flo to use?

 

[hywel]

The right thing to do is to mix all the D-76 at once. Although it all looks like one powder there's actually a couple of different ingredients and by only mixing part of the powder you risk not getting the right proportions. And then save the unused stock solution in a full tightly sealed bottle, it'll keep for several months (I think Kodak say 6 months, I've certainly had no problems after 2 or 3). And I'm sure it won't be that long before you're back processing some more film!

As to quantities, sorry, I can't help, I'm a 35mm and 120 man only.

Hywel

 

[Paul Sorensen]

You always want to mix a full package of D-76, or really any powder developer. Just mix up a batch of stock solution and then dilute it per batch. As for how much to use, I am not sure, it will depend on which size unicolor drum you are using (assuming that they made different sizes). For roller development you do not need to fill the developing tank, but you need enough to have it slosh around appropriately to give you the proper developing action. I am sure that someone else can help you with the volume needed.

 

[Frank R]

Thanks for the mixing advice.

Anybody else know the amounts I should use? I am using an eight inch drum.

What is the shelf life for fixer and photo-flo?

 

[thebanana]

I'd just fill the tank to the appropriate level with water and then measure the volume. Then you could figure out how much of the chems to use from there.

 

[Frank R]

I'd just fill the tank to the appropriate level with water and then measure the volume. Then you could figure out how much of the chems to use from there.

I just measured the tank volume; it is two quarts. Something tells me that I probably don't need to use half a gallon per session.

 

[Vaughn]

Is that 9"x12" or 9cmx12cm? I will assume 9"x12"...

One liter (qt) of D-76 will develop 4 sheets of 8"x10". Mixed 1:1, one liter of D-76 will develop 2 sheets of 8"x10". 500 ml of 1:1 for one 8x10 (80 sq in). 9"x12" is 108 sq in, so that would be 675 ml per 9"x12". Maybe use 750 ml

So then you might as well keep to 750ml of solution for all the chems - but you'll be able to re-use the stop bath and fixer until they get exhausted. I don't have those figures in front of me...I will later today and will post them if someone else does not.

I would get a tray and photo-flo in that rather than in the drum (to get both sides of the film. In fact you may want to finish up the fixing in a tray (pour the fixer out of the drum into a tray, remove the film anf put it in the tray). I find that it is better for removing the last of the anti-halation layer from the back of the film. I also hypo-clear and wash in trays (I develop 5 8x10's at a time in a Jobo drum).

Vaughn

 

[MikeSeb]

Mix your own

Frank, if you decide you want to stick with it, consider buying bulk chemicals and mixing your own developer. It's easy and cheap, and you'll always have fresh chemistry in whatever amount you need.

 

[Frank R]

Sorry, but that is 9x12 cm not inches. I'll just convert your figures to 4x5 inches, thanks.

I am finding a lot of information on Kodak's and Ilford's sites, and on the web, but I am trying to sort it all out.

I have been given several bags of D-76, and Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent. I also have an unopened 5 liter of Ilford Rapid Fixer concentrate, a half gallon of Kodak Indicator Stop Bath concentrate, and a quart of Phot-Flo 600 concentrate.

I also have several Unicolor drums and a Beseler drum. I will be using the Beseler motor base because it reverses every few seconds. The inside of the drum has ridges to allow the solution to flow behind it.

My EFKE 100 instructions indicate I should use plain water as a stop bath so I won't need to use the Kodak Indicator Stop Bath.

I have about 90% of what I need, I am just trying to finalize everything else before I proceed. It seems the volumes and the times needed for each product is slowing me down.

If I determine how much volume of D-76 1:1 to use to process four sheets of 4x5 (9x12) film, should I just use the same volume of Rapid Fixer,Hypo Clearing and Photo-Flo?

 

[Vaughn]

9cm by 12cm does make more sense...tho 9"x12" sounds like an interesting size!

Kodak Rapid Fix will do 120 4x5 negs per liter

Kodak HCA will do 100 4x5's per liter (with a rince between it and the fixer). Without the rince, reduce capacity to 30 4x5's per liter.

Indicator stop bath you just keep using until it goes purple. I would advise using it. I used water for years...but I have cleaner looking negatives now that I am using an acid stop bath with the drum. With water, I was having some sort of residue (probably related to the anti-halation layer?) on the back of the film (FP4).

The amount of the stop, fix and HCA you use is not that important -- use whatever amount is easy to pour into the tube...perhaps 8 oz. Save and re-use it. An oz of fixer will do 8 4x5 negs, so using it as a one-shot fix is a bit wasteful.

Others on the forum have suggested just "a couple drops" of photo-flo...but I don't know to what amount, etc...a seach might yield more info.

Have fun!

Vaughn

 

[Kilgallb]

I develop 4x5 in a unicolor drum intended for 8x10 prints.

An 8x10 drum will require about 3 ounces of developer just to cover the film properly. I believe it takes 2 ounces of D76 stock to develop one sheet of 4x5. So I use 4 ounces when developing two sheets and 3 ounces if I am doing a single sheet.

I have found that it is best to discard the developer after use. It will be polluted by the antihalation dye anyway.

I fix in an open tray (you only need to be in the dark for a few minutes) then use double strength hypo clear also in a tray. You need double strenght to really get at the material on the obverse side from the emulsion. It will avoid the screen door effect some others have written about. I find Tmax has no problem with this effect but Delta 100 seems to be more problematic.

If I do two sheets, I have a separate fixer tray for both sheets. This way you can agitate in the tray without risking a scratch of the emulsion.

 

[mjs]

I mix a gallon of D-76 and then immediately separate it into four 1 qt. bottles, filled to the brim and capped tightly. Even with Tmax film, which is very sensitive to the freshness of D-76 developer, the quart bottles seem to be good for a month at least.

It used to be more important to me; a quart of D-76 will develop 16 4x5 negatives, but only 4 8x10 negatives and that's what I've been shooting since I got my Wehman. I've been going through D-76 a lot faster lately. Time to look up mixing my own, I guess...

Mike

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I mix a gallon of D-76 and then immediately separate it into four 1 qt. bottles, filled to the brim and capped tightly. Even with Tmax film, which is very sensitive to the freshness of D-76 developer, the quart bottles seem to be good for a month at least.

It used to be more important to me; a quart of D-76 will develop 16 4x5 negatives, but only 4 8x10 negatives and that's what I've been shooting since I got my Wehman. I've been going through D-76 a lot faster lately. Time to look up mixing my own, I guess...

Mike

Mike, if you have not yet done so, take a look at this D-76 type developer storage life study by Michael Dosch (with developer recipes included) :

http://www.udmercy.edu/crna/agm/phenvitc.htm

 

[Frank R]

I fix in an open tray (you only need to be in the dark for a few minutes) then use double strength hypo clear also in a tray. You need double strenght to really get at the material on the obverse side from the emulsion. It will avoid the screen door effect some others have written about. I find Tmax has no problem with this effect but Delta 100 seems to be more problematic.

If I do two sheets, I have a separate fixer tray for both sheets. This way you can agitate in the tray without risking a scratch of the emulsion.

What about volumes of fixer needed? Do you use the same amount of fixer and photo-flo as you did the developer?

How about the amount of washing? That must be a lot more, right? Do you just fill the drum with water and run it for a few minutes, maybe change the water a couple of times?

 

[bdial]

If you are using the drum for the fix, yes. Don't photo-flo in the drum though, for it use enough in a tray to cover the film.
There are many discussions here on washing. Simplified, Kodak's recommendation is 5 changes of water over 20 or 30 minutes. Ilford's method is three changes of water with agitation in between. Just letting it run is another way, but wasteful.

 

[mjs]

Mike, if you have not yet done so, take a look at this D-76 type developer storage life study by Michael Dosch (with developer recipes included) :

http://www.udmercy.edu/crna/agm/phenvitc.htm

Thank you, Tom. It was very interesting. I have always had something of a reluctance to mixing my own chemistry, which stems from early life experience. In high school I avoided chemistry, sticking to physics, and have maintained that prejudice since. Do you have any experience with mixing your own D-76 type developers yourself? I'm curious about the economics: I currently pay about $6.50 for a 1 gallon bag of Kodak's powder at retail. Have you any idea what my cost might be, mixing from the sources listed in the article you referenced (Photographer's Formulary and Kodak, primarily, it seems.) Also, are lab scales suitable for this sort of thing very expensive?

Mike

 

[pnance]

Check out http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Developers/Cost/cost.html apprently its not cheaper, unless you consider that you only mix up the amount you need, and wouldn't be throwing out any that spoiled. Assuming you only mix what you need when you need it.

 

[gainer]

PC-TEA diluted 1 + 50 has about the same activity as D-23 whic IIRC is about the same activity as D-76. You can make a gallon of the PC-TEA stock for the cost of a gallon of triethanolamine, 341 grams of ascorbic acid, and 8.5 grams of phenidone. That's 13.5 ounces of ascorbic acid which you can weigh to sufficient acuracy on a kitchen scale. If you buy 10 grams of phenidone from Photographer's Formulary, you can throw it all in and never know the difference in activity. You can get the TEA and ascorbic acid from www.chemistrystore.com. This solution will keep a long time and will make 50 gallons of working solution.

I'm sure you will want to try it out before you make it in quantity. 100 ml TEA, 2 1/4 teaspoons of ascorbic acid, 1/4 teaspoon phenidone will do the job. Warm the mixture to help it dissolve. TEA is very viscous at room temperature. If you like it, 50 gallons of working solution will cost less than 50 dollars.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Thank you, Tom. It was very interesting. I have always had something of a reluctance to mixing my own chemistry, which stems from early life experience. In high school I avoided chemistry, sticking to physics, and have maintained that prejudice since. Do you have any experience with mixing your own D-76 type developers yourself? I'm curious about the economics: I currently pay about $6.50 for a 1 gallon bag of Kodak's powder at retail. Have you any idea what my cost might be, mixing from the sources listed in the article you referenced (Photographer's Formulary and Kodak, primarily, it seems.) Also, are lab scales suitable for this sort of thing very expensive?

Mike

Mike, for me, it was mathematics, physics and chemistry - so I became an engineer.

I've been mixing my own photochemistry for many years. I generally use one-shot chemistry so it is most convenient for me to mix the amount I need - when I need it. A couple of good internet sources for chemicals are Artcraft and The Chemistry Store. I'm currently using a battery powered DURASCALE of 50 gram x 0.01 gram capacity (about $30.as I recall). www.myweigh.com

 

[gainer]

I just tested the teaspoon formula again to make sure I wasn't misleading you. These are level spoonfulls, BTW. 7 minutes at 72 F gave nornal contrast on HP5+. That is IIRC what you would get from full strength D-76. Grain is as fine as D-23 and sharpness is slightly better. The attached photo shows gradations but cannot show fine detail due to file size limits.

 

[gainer]

This was 35 mm.

 

[Harrigan]

If you are using the beseler print drum to run sheet film I use 250ml per 8x10 sheet of film, which is the max a 8x10 beseler print drum will handle without flowing out the end when rotating. I have also used 200ml without a problem. I use stop bath but I run more modern film than efke. I also do not fix in the tube as I find film wants to be fully immresed in the fixer so flip the light off after the stop, remove the film and put into a tray of fixer and flip the light back on. Again this is all done in the beseler color print drum for 8x10. For 11x14 beseler print drum I use 500ml of chemicals per run. Pitch the d76 if diluted 1:1 after use.

 

[Kilgallb]

What about volumes of fixer needed? Do you use the same amount of fixer and photo-flo as you did the developer?

How about the amount of washing? That must be a lot more, right? Do you just fill the drum with water and run it for a few minutes, maybe change the water a couple of times?

I put about 1 litre of fixer in each 8 x10 tray, from the same bottle. (The fixer all goes back into that same bottle so it all mixes again)

I wash in either a 11 x 14 tray or lately in an old yankee Sheetfilm tank.

When washing is over, I put each sheet, one at a time into a 5x7 tray with about 300 ml of distilled water. I add just enough photo-flow to get a bit of froth.