RalphLambrecht
Subscriber
I saw a feature on Youtube where the author recommended to mix 30g/ of regular table salt to a developer solution to increase contrast and muffle grain. Has anybody tried that experience? Did it work?
I seem to recall reading that adding about that much NaCl to D-23 equals a close relative to Microdol-X. Not sure if it's a mechanism to increase contrast but it could be.
I seem to recall reading that adding about that much NaCl to D-23 equals a close relative to Microdol-X. Not sure if it's a mechanism to increase contrast but it could be.
Try it and let us know what you find.
I'll hink about it Eric.Try it and let us know what you find.
Research in the addition of sodium chloride to high sulfite developers resulted in Kodak Microdol. (Note no tMicrodol X which contains other chemicals ) As Ian mentions a thiosulfate and or a thiocyanate can also be used. However there is the danger of dichroic fog if too much sulfite is used and also the problem of sludging. I see no particular advantage in it's being added to paper developers.
With the exeption of homebrew formula of D23. But (as you stated) it is just One option - there is also a way to change to
theosulfate or theocyanate.
But THEN you have a diferent formulation without NaCl and an other name of your developer in the very near of Kodak Microdol (old formula).
with regards
PS : NaCl is a nice chem. because it isn't much restricted from official regulations. .....![]()
Research in the addition of sodium chloride to high sulfite developers resulted in Kodak Microdol. (Note no tMicrodol X which contains other chemicals ) As Ian mentions a thiosulfate and or a thiocyanate can also be used. However there is the danger of dichroic fog if too much sulfite is used and also the problem of sludging. I see no particular advantage in it's being added to paper developers.
I'll hink about it Eric.
I'm thinking to add NaCl or sodium sulfite t clean water first and then use that solution to dilute the developer to get a working solution developer.With the exeption of homebrew formula of D23. But (as you stated) it is just One option - there is also a way to change to
theosulfate or theocyanate.
But THEN you have a diferent formulation without NaCl and an other name of your developer in the very near of Kodak Microdol (old formula).
with regards
PS : NaCl is a nice chem. because it isn't much restricted from official regulations. .....![]()
Good thoughts Ralph - but If you are interested try some of that old ID formulas or just mixing your D23 insread of Perceptol.I'm thinking to add NaCl or sodium sulfite t clean water first and then use that solution to dilute the developer to get a working solution developer.
thank you all for your help;I'll report on results after next Thursday.7,5g metol....
with regards
Table salt contains an anti caking additive that is insoluble in water and causes cloudiness. Use pickling salt to get clear solutions. You don't want anything settling on your film. As for Kosher salt check the label. It too sometimes contains insoluble susbtances and even some surprising ones like sodium ferrocyanide.
well , a 2% solution of black himalayan salt indeed makes a good substitute for a polysulphide toner.I forget to state - but it should be quite clear. Good pure NaCl but without further intrigients like fluorine and others.
with regards
PS : Most expensive "himalaja" salt should be the next voodoo issue !
Well, I've tried it and it worked; instead of mixing Rodinal with water,I've mixed it with his:I saw a feature on Youtube where the author recommended to mix 30g/ of regular table salt to a developer solution to increase contrast and muffle grain. Has anybody tried that experience? Did it work?
I forgot to note that I used it with Rodinal 1:25at 20C for an Ilford FP4+;the negatives are clear and pinsharp;camera was a Nikon FM with an 50mm f/1.8 E-series.Well, I've tried it and it worked; instead of mixing Rodinal with water,I've mixed it with his:
FilmDevBooster (FDB-1)
water 50°C / 120°F
750 ml
sodium sulfite anhydrous(as a light silver solvent)
20 g
pure sea salt(again as a light silver solvent)
35 g
sodium hexametaphosphate(FotoCalgon)*
1g
metol
1g
potassium bromide(to reduce fog)
0.5g
cold water to make
1,000 ml
working solution to dilute developer with
* add with hard water supplies to prevent calcium scum
I'm just a hobby photochemistry and probably not even a good one at that but, maybe I'm a lucky one because, under the microscope (40x),the grain is clearly smaller, the sharpness did not suffer(if any there is more detail)and there is no fog at all; next step is to have the negs scanned and the negatives enlarged to verify early findings.
the test is done now and the vote is that using the booster rather than plain water did reduce the grain slightly ; it also increased detail and sharpness but some apparently due to a contrast increase in the midtowns;in other words, the booster positively changes the tonal curve; from now on, for me, this is the way to go.Well, I've tried it and it worked; instead of mixing Rodinal with water,I've mixed it with his:
FilmDevBooster (FDB-1)
water 50°C / 120°F
750 ml
sodium sulfite anhydrous(as a light silver solvent)
20 g
pure sea salt(again as a light silver solvent)
35 g
sodium hexametaphosphate(FotoCalgon)*
1g
metol
1g
potassium bromide(to reduce fog)
0.5g
cold water to make
1,000 ml
working solution to dilute developer with
* add with hard water supplies to prevent calcium scum
I'm just a hobby photochemistry and probably not even a good one at that but, maybe I'm a lucky one because, under the microscope (40x),the grain is clearly smaller, the sharpness did not suffer(if any there is more detail)and there is no fog at all; next step is to have the negs scanned and the negatives enlarged to verify early findings.
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