Mirrorslap- rb67

[indierthanthou]

I have some serious problems with mirrorslap with long exposures. I know I can do mirror-up with the rb67, using a dual cable release, but at the moment I don't have one. Is it possible to release the mirror by triggering the button on the body using one cable release, and fire the shutter with another one shortly after (probably under a second, just enough time for the camera to stablilize after releasing the shutter) or will this mess something up? I'm trying to save a bit of money at the moment, I just spent $300 on a meter, and the dual releases I find are usually around $60.

 

[epatsellis]

I own several RB's, and have owned probably 25 over the years, I've yet to own a double cable release. Just set the lens to mirror up, screw in a release cable to the lens, fire the body, give it a sec or two, then fire the lens. (just be sure to put the Mirror up ring back to normal, before you put the lens away, it will bite you sooner or later if you don't)

 

[Maris]

The RB 67 should not be giving mirror slap problems.

Because I do one finger typing I can now hold in my left hand an actual RB 67 mirror damper assembly. It is an elaborate device with high speed gears and a variable diameter spinning weight and it works superbly. The RB 67 probably has the least mirror vibration of any roll film SLR.

There is however a weakness in the system. The axle of the spinning weight runs in a soft brass plate that wears out after thousands (and thousands) of cycles. If the damping weight does not spin freely the RB 67 can shake and definitely needs a service. If the damping wheel ever jumps out of its worn bearings then the mirror moves undamped and usually smashes into smithereens at the top of its travel; a huge mess!

In long exposures the mirror movement time usually represents a small fraction of the total and should be of no account. But with the RB 67 there is another wrinkle. There is no B setting so to close the shutter the shutter speed ring has to be moved off T or the wind lever has to be pushed down. Either operation has potential for camera shake.

I regularly use a finger on the body release to fire the mirror and a cable release in the lens socket to fire the shutter. So far I've never seen camera shake but I've never had to do lots of 2 second exposures which, with a RB67, is an exercise in quick prestidigitation.

 

[indierthanthou]

There is no B setting so to close the shutter the shutter speed ring has to be moved off T or the wind lever has to be pushed down. Either operation has potential for camera shake.

I noticed this. Why does it do it like that? it seems like it would completely defeat the purpose. Most cameras will close the shutter when you push the release again.

 

[David Brown]

I own several RB's, and have owned probably 25 over the years, I've yet to own a double cable release. Just set the lens to mirror up, screw in a release cable to the lens, fire the body, give it a sec or two, then fire the lens.

Ditto!

Just to be clear: the single, regular, plain ol' cable release (you already own) goes into the socket on the lens. You fire the camera release first with a finger.

See:

http://stephengrote.com/teaching/manuals/storage/RB67_Pro_SD_v7.pdf

page 30

 

[epatsellis]

Maris,
I started to type something similar to that, and have grown weary of trying to explain why the RB exhibits little to no mirror vibration, or as the old saying goes "never try to teach a pig to sing, it wastes your time and annoys the pig...." Needless to say, when making long exposures, simply place your hand or a card in front of the lens, then lightly advance the body advance lever, eliminates vibration visible on the exposure.

 

[Ross Chambers]

I own several RB's, and have owned probably 25 over the years, I've yet to own a double cable release. Just set the lens to mirror up, screw in a release cable to the lens, fire the body, give it a sec or two, then fire the lens. (just be sure to put the Mirror up ring back to normal, before you put the lens away, it will bite you sooner or later if you don't)

I'd appreciate elaboration on the "bite you" bit. I don't enjoy being bitten, even by my beloved RB 67.

Thanks - Ross

 

[Steve Smith]

Just to second (or third or fourth) that mirror slap on an RB67 should be minimal. Unlike cameras like my ETRS in which the mirror comes to rest against its stop with a mighty clang, the RB67's miiror mechanism is, I think, on a cam which means it comes decelerates to a stop rather than being abruptly forced to stop.

I also use a standard cable release if I want to do mirror up. Usually I don't bother though.


Steve.

 

[El Gringo]

I'd appreciate elaboration on the "bite you" bit. I don't enjoy being bitten, even by my beloved RB 67.

Thanks - Ross

I think the point that was being made is that if you leave your lens on mirror lock up and put it away, you might, when returning it to the camera forget to check it. Then happily fire off a few shots thinking your not using mirror lock up (therefore not needing a cable realease) before you realise that the shutter hasn't been firing! I've done this once or twice and its not a very nice feeling when you realise whats happened.

 

[nsouto]

One more to add to the great "rb67 mirror slap" furphy.
Never had the slightest mirror slap problem with my (single...) rb67.

In fact if anything it has one of the smoothest operating mirrors of any slr.
Not to say that whatever controls that smoothness won't eventually wear out.

I was fortunate enough to find a double cable release.
Which I've used exactly twice: whenever needed I never seem to find it.

I suspect like many others, I just attach a single cable to the lens, put it
in "mirror up" mode, frame and focus, fire the body and take the shot with the cable.

 

[epatsellis]

El Gringo is spot on, I've had it happen to me, usually when I'm in a rush, and the words that come to mind aren't fit for public consumption (unless you're a rapper..)

 

[kodachrome64]

I think the point that was being made is that if you leave your lens on mirror lock up and put it away, you might, when returning it to the camera forget to check it. Then happily fire off a few shots thinking your not using mirror lock up (therefore not needing a cable realease) before you realise that the shutter hasn't been firing! I've done this once or twice and its not a very nice feeling when you realise whats happened.

This can happen, but I wonder why people don't notice the shutter hasn't fired? I can hear the shutter very distinctly when I use my RB system, and I would be made aware of this right away if the mirror rose and there were no clicking sound to follow.

It is good practice to make sure that the mirror up switch is returned to normal though. Now forgetting to take the darkslide out...that has gotten me a few times.

Nick

 

[paul ron]

Everyone is correct, you only need one cable to fire the shutter n one finger to shoot the body.

But jsut for the heck of it... check the mirror bumpers? I'll bet you can use new seals n bumpers. Are the gummy? Perhps when your economic situation recovers, buy a foam set fomr Interslice n DIY for about $20 n have enough to start a small business to recover your cost.

Also one more... that description of smashing mirrors is not correct since the bumpers will dampen the crash n not break the mirror to smitherines. That govenor does slow n dampen the mirror but they hardly ever fail because they are so well designed n built. The bumpers cause the slaping in 9 out of 10 bodies I have ever serviced.

 

[Ross Chambers]

I have found the double release to require quite sensitive pressure with some lenses, and if you get it wrong the result is non mirror up results.

Lately I've been following the manual body camera release (mirror up) followed by the shutter cable release procedure.

One could use 2 cable releases I guess (assuming one had an orderly mind!) I have a sneaky feeling that Mamiya was compromising between a semi view camera procedure and a snatch the moment one.

Regards - Ross