Not that often, but certainly in certain situations.
The Nikon F3 has an eye piece blind, which is designed to be used when the camera is on a tripod and your face is away from the viewfinder glass. The idea being that it stops stray light entering via the viewfinder. Whenever I'm using the DW3 waist level viewfinder and on a tripod, mirror lockup pretty much ensures there is no light leak happening as the mirror swings up during normal exposure. I do the same when using the DW4 6 x magnification finder.
Whenever doing a long exposure, I will lock the mirror up, regardless. As for really long exposures, think hours, I use the T for time and trip the shutter with the manual shutter switch. The mirror goes up, the curtain opens and everything stays in their place until I take it off the T on the shutter speed dial. Not really a mirror lock up, but effectively the same thing.
Also great for cleaning the camera meter with the mirror locked up and the shutter open, this allows one to clean the meter which is in a recess and faces the film.
Mick.
Those are two new (to me) reasons.... Thanks (insert thumbs-up emoji)I don't use it often, but I use it.
One other advantage is that, for some cameras with leaf shutters, locking the mirror up can permit you to be almost silent when you take a photo.
Other than (possible) mirror slap moving the Camera/Tripod a bit, what else do you use the lockup for.?
In the past it was used to mount a lens with rear-protruding barrel, framing had to be done by accessory finder. As the repective lenses were wide-angle, focusing could be done by scale.
I use it rarely. On my Hasselblad, I've not noticed a difference in image quality between using it and not, even doing very close macro work. I've used it with the Hasselblad a time or two to be very quiet at the time of making the picture. And I've done the same occasionally with 35mm.
Nikon has a few lenses, mostly fisheyes, mostly very old, that can't be mounted with the mirror down. I presume some of the other makers have such as well.
It can depend on subject matter. In a dark, night scene situation if there are bare bulbs in signs or street lights they may blur, as they are being roundly overexposed in the long exposure.I don't see why lockup might be needed for long exposures. The exposure is so long that any temporary vibration won't register. I make people who walk in front of my camera completely disappear by using a long exposure. I would be more worried about for shorter, middle-timed exposures. Am I missing something?
That is one reason i asked.I don't see why lockup might be needed for long exposures. The exposure is so long that any temporary vibration won't register. I make people who walk in front of my camera completely disappear by using a long exposure. I would be more worried about for shorter, middle-timed exposures. Am I missing something?
I don't see why lockup might be needed for long exposures. The exposure is so long that any temporary vibration won't register. I make people who walk in front of my camera completely disappear by using a long exposure. I would be more worried about for shorter, middle-timed exposures. Am I missing something?
CMoore said:quote]That is one reason i asked.
I have NO Idea, but i was thinking it might matter more for the 1/2 to 3 second kind of exposures than the 20 second to 2 minute scenarios..
I remember seeing similar information somewhere. The Luminous Landscape conducted an experiment with the Pentax 645n which lacks MLU. The found that even with long lenses and long and short exposures no effect was noted from mirror slap, or whatever. I don't recall whether they had a 645nii, which does have MLU. The Bronica S2a, proud possessor of the LOUDEST shutter in the known universe (horses shy, chidren cry, etc) doesn't seem to cause blurred pictures. Apparently the racket occurs after the shutterT
While RF photographers cherish and some even worship a quite shutter, many SLR photographers revel in the crescendo of a self satisfying TH-WHACK!!!
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