Minolta X570, meter question

[binglebugbob]

A question about my X570: It fires, but when set at "A", it acts like the shutter is set at about 2 full seconds no matter the aperture set on the lens--it doesn't change shutter speeds by changing the aperture on the lens.

The batteries aren't new, but check good on my battery tester. (not marginal) The "A" LED in the viewfinder isn't blinking which would indicate weak batteries, although a red "down arrow" between 1 second and B at the bottom of the viewfinder is blinking. This location (near 1 sec and bulb) may be related to the roughly 2 second shutter speed.

The curtains seem to be working fine. The shutter speeds work correctly when in manual mode, and an LED shows which shutter speed has been selected. But I don't see any any LED showing the aperture.

So much of the camera seems to be working OK, I have been wondering if I'm doing something wrong...? I'm wondering if the light meter is dead. Any tricks to make this thing work correctly.

 

[shutterfinger]

Re[place the batteries. Battery testers are good for flashlights only, a volt meter is better.
Which type of batteries do you have installed?

 

[binglebugbob]

They are the batteries called for in the manual. But I will try new ones. Cheaper than a repair job.

 

[shutterfinger]

They are the batteries called for in the manual

Silver Oxide, Alkaline, Lithium? Which one??????
They each have different operating characteristics and we the community offering help need to know such details.

 

[Autonerd]

A question about my X570: It fires, but when set at "A", it acts like the shutter is set at about 2 full seconds no matter the aperture set on the lens--it doesn't change shutter speeds by changing the aperture on the lens. [snip] I'm wondering if the light meter is dead. Any tricks to make this thing work correctly.

Are you doing this indoors or outdoors? If you are inside under room light and the ISO dial is set to 100, that could be roughly the right exposure (I'm surprised it doesn't change with ap, but maybe the camera maxes out at two seconds? (I just tried this on my XG-E and it did meter shots longer than 2 sec when I stopped down.)

I'd try either playing with the camera outdoors or turning the ISO up to 3200 and pointing it towards a light. See if the LED on the meter moves to a shorter time and if the camera changes its shutter time appropriately. If the LEDs don't move, it's possible there's a problem with the mechanism that communicates the lens aperture to the camera.

Assuming it's the same mount, that's probably a lever you'll see towards the bottom when you remove the lens. If the LEDs dont' change with the lens installed and higher ISO, try pointing the camera at the light (without a lens) and sliding that lever with your finger to see if the LEDs change. I would be careful about tripping the shutter with your finger in there, though...

 

[Wallendo]

Which lens are you using?
The earliest lenses don't have a mechanism for communicated the aperture to the camera. If your lens has MC or MD in its name, you should be safe in that regard. Lenses labelled "Rokkor" or "Auto Rokkor" with MC or MD cannot be used in Auto mode.
I doubt this issue would routinely cause a 2 second exposure, but it us worth a look.

 

[Mamiya_Repair]

While this issue can be the result of several things, I like to go to the most likely and that is a problem with the AV resistor (aperture value). It is underneath the lens mount ring and when you turn the aperture on the lens, a ring with contacts slides on this resistor. The problem is often dirty contacts although I have seen cracked AV resistors. To access this part you need to remove the lens mount and the spring loaded aperture ring.

 

[binglebugbob]

The batteries are silver oxide Energizer and reasonably fresh. The lens is a 50mm MC although the same thing happens with MD lenses. (I believe the camera was issued with MC lenses, so if it is working it should work in Auto mode with either MC or MD lenses. I don't know of any newer manual focus lens mount.) As you know, "Auto" isn't program--If working properly, it should pick (only) the shutter speed, and not the aperture.. And it doesn't matter whether you point it at an unlit area or a bright light, you get a 2 second exposure on Auto.

I tend to think "Mamiya Repair" is probably closest to diagnosing the problem. At any rate, I think it can be repaired for a reasonable cost. I was more concerned that there might have been some button or switch that I had overlooked.
Thanks!

 

[shutterfinger]

https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Minolta-X-Series-Service-Manual.pdf is a factory service manual that covers your camera. 2024-0422-01 0n pdf page 23 is the AV resistor Mamiya Repair refers to and is a likely cause.
Silver Oxide are the best choice for the batteries listed in the user manual. When checking batteries with a volt meter a 1.5V will read 1.56 or 1.57 when new and will not operate a camera when they read 1.5 or less but most battery testers will show them as being good.
The silver oxide 1.55 should read similar to a standard 1.5V battery, the 3V lithium should read .1V to .3V over 3V to be good for camera use.

 

[binglebugbob]

Before boxing it up to ship for repair, I bought brand new batteries. No difference.

I tried tinkering with an older Minolta lens mount once. It wasn't a great loss in that case, but it never worked right again...

Thanks for the information!

 

[pbromaghin]

Which lens are you using?
The earliest lenses don't have a mechanism for communicated the aperture to the camera. If your lens has MC or MD in its name, you should be safe in that regard. Lenses labelled "Rokkor" or "Auto Rokkor" with MC or MD cannot be used in Auto mode.
I doubt this issue would routinely cause a 2 second exposure, but it us worth a look.

I think you're confusing this with the "P" mode on the x-700. On the x-570 (and all the MD cameras) "A" is aperture priority and pretty much all the MC or MD lenses work just fine. I say almost because there might be one out there I've never tried.

 

[mawz]

I think you're confusing this with the "P" mode on the x-700. On the x-570 (and all the MD cameras) "A" is aperture priority and pretty much all the MC or MD lenses work just fine. I say almost because there might be one out there I've never tried.

He's not, there are pre-MC Rokkors and those are what he's talking about. You need MC or MD for aperture coupling and AE needs that when used with a lens that has auto aperture stop-down (because it cannot read the difference between metered aperture and selected aperture without an aperture coupling)

 

[pbromaghin]

He's not, there are pre-MC Rokkors and those are what he's talking about. You need MC or MD for aperture coupling and AE needs that when used with a lens that has auto aperture stop-down (because it cannot read the difference between metered aperture and selected aperture without an aperture coupling)

Ahhh. I misread his post and didn't register the distinction he made. Thank you.

 

[CMoore]

Before boxing it up to ship for repair, I bought brand new batteries. No difference.

I tried tinkering with an older Minolta lens mount once. It wasn't a great loss in that case, but it never worked right again...

Thanks for the information!

FWIW.................... i sold my Canon A-1 and AE1-P after i bought my Minolta 570.

 

[binglebugbob]

The shop had this summary of the repair: "Replaced aperture contacts. Replaced aperture ring."

I think "Mamiya Repair about nailed it. Works fine now.