What is light gasoline? Naphtha?(I'd do it by dipping them in a light gasoline
What is light gasoline? Naphtha?
First thing: what model shutter is it? Some have a cocking ring which can be difficult to get out and in. Some models need the escapement moved to adjust slow speeds. Some have a stop for the pallet that is bent to adjust speed.
Alcohol is somewhat hydrophilic. It may evaporate quickly and cleanly but it may also be a way to introduce water into tight areas. Whatever you use for a cleaner, be very very sparing. Wipe, don't flood.
It has Citizen name on it.
I've done a lil research in this, used to work for OSHA and the EPA specifically on toxic and hazardous chemicals and materials, nothing we uncovered pointed to any build up left behind by lighter fluid. It evaporates 100%, there is no residue left behind. Still, give things you can get to a wipe w/ a clean Q-tip repeatedly. Just because.
Make sure you're buying lighter fluid too, not what you use to get a BBQ going, that's not the same thing.
shutter do not require lubrication.They are designed to run dry;In fact lubrication actually hurts them because, oils and grease harden over time, which can freeze shutter action completely.While disassembling Minolta Autocord for basic CLA I accidentally unscrewed the sync contact nut and the contact had fallen inside the shutter assembly so I needed to open it. And while it's opened what else can I do with it? It is working but wasn't serviced for a very long time. So I need basic tips. I can leave it as is or I guess I can take major blocks out, clean (I'd do it by dipping them in a light gasoline) and relubricate them.
Utter nonsense. Most have detailed lubrication specifications. This rumor seems to have started from a USER MANUAL that advises USERS to “do not lubricate shutter”… not a repair manual. If memory serves correctly, that statement was followed by instruction to send shutter to manufacturer if repair is needed.shutter do not require lubrication.They are designed to run dry;In fact lubrication actually hurts them because, oils and grease harden over time, which can freeze shutter action completely.
shutter do not require lubrication.They are designed to run dry;In fact lubrication actually hurts them because, oils and grease harden over time, which can freeze shutter action completely.
I have this advise from the Nijon service center in Germany(Hamburg, Norderstedt) they apparently spent ore time on washing out old lubicantthan on any other repair.Utter nonsense. Most have detailed lubrication specifications. This rumor seems to have started from a USER MANUAL that advises USERS to “do not lubricate shutter”… not a repair manual. If memory serves correctly, that statement was followed by instruction to send shutter to manufacturer if repair is needed.
Please forgive my bluntness.
The devil is in the details. They could not possibly have meant no lubrication at all or that as generic recommendation. That just isn’t supported by manufacturer specifications or elementary engineering.I have this advise from the Nijon service center in Germany(Hamburg, Norderstedt) they apparently spent ore time on washing out old lubicantthan on any other repair.
I have this advise from the Nijon service center in Germany(Hamburg, Norderstedt) they apparently spent ore time on washing out old lubicantthan on any other repair.
Dan Daniels is well qualified to comment on the Autocords. I have an Autocord which he'd serviced; it is the one with the selenium meter, WHICH WORKS! although I find its use inconvenient. My Autocord looks as though it had sat in a dealer's display case since it was new. Everything works smoothly. I really like the ergonomics of the Autocord, I prefer it to my YashicaMat or my Ikoflex.I pity camera service center people. What they must see when they open up cameras. As momus mentions above, shutter blades are often coated in dried oil or grease and can take a bit to get clean. And that film came from somewhere! Oil migrates, grease decomposes and turns into 'soap' and oil. All dry out, but maybe vaporize first and move throughout the mechanism.
Something like the Synchro-Compur manual I linked to above is assuming that you are starting with clean parts. And that you are using lubes that are appropriate for such mechanisms if/when you do apply lubrication.
I think we should remember that when manuals like the Synchro-Compur one were written, it was assumed that the cameras being serviced were used by professionals. Cameras were used, constantly. And cameras were serviced, regularly. They were tools that needed to be maintained. Most mechanical cameras these days are used by hobbyists and aficionados, not people shooting dozens of rolls a week.
I read this as : don't lubricate;it will run dry just fine! similar to removing light sealsBTW; light traps work better and can't fail.From https://learncamerarepair.com/product.php?product=86&category=2&secondary=21 Prontor S, Sv, SVX Repair manual.
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Well, many Prontor shutters are in the scrap pile as they wore out due to lack of lubrication. Ilex shutters were also designed to run dry.
This was fine straight from the factory but 50+ years later a trace of oil and grease on pivots and sliding metal to metal parts and some springs makes for a smoother and quieter running shutter.
Well this certainly speaks to the perils of building a shutter like an alarm clock rather than a Swiss watch and “lifetime lubrication”!I have a pile of Prontors I bought for little off ebay to service and resell. All are scrap. 10% are usable.
About 25% of the Compurs were non repairable.
Wollensak, Ilex, Copal, all repaired to usable to like new.
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