These Minolta AF lenses also come from the box of defective/untested photo equipment:
All four have lame apertures, which I attribute to oil contamination; the 35-105 also has mold on two lenses.
- 2 x AF 35-70/4
- 1 x AF 35-105/3.5~4.5
- 1 x AF 70-210/4
I will try to fix this.
The 28-135mm f4/4.5 from that time frame was an outstanding lens.
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That's why I'm happy that I don't have to touch my as good as new 28-135, which I got very cheaply.
It seems to be faultless
You need to add the dedicated 2 flash set up with 8 AA battery holder, the bulk film back with a 100 feet of film, then the 28 to 135mm. When I get a chance I will dig out my set.
All three of these first generations zooms were excellent for their day, only downside is the macro mode, no AF.
The 28-135mm f4/4.5 from that time frame was an outstanding lens.
More for wedding and events, main flash off set with a head on fill flash. I tend not to use much in way of flash, only used mine once, shot a roll of color film did a nice job. I need to find my unit, it's in storage, forgot what box. Here is a link the user manaul with a description of the basic unit. It hold 6 not the 8 I misremembered. Also missing is the bulk film back, which must have come later.
That is a good price! I spent a little more on a CG-1000, and it seems to have stopped working correctly since I first tried it out. The fault is it not consistently firing the connected flash (4000af) and when it does fire it feels like it's full blast rather than being cut short with the TTL. The flash symbol in the camera's viewfinder blinks slowly too. So I guess i'll open it up and see if it's something obvious like a leaked electrolytic, since that's about the most of what I can troubleshoot.
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Top piece is held in with plastic tabs that crack easily. Bottom is full of springs ready to jump out.
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The grip rubber has to come off but it's made out of the same stuff as the body's grip unfortunately... a sticker in the battery compartment holds the two halves together also. The flash sync socket doesn't have to be removed - doing so just breaks the wire connecting it.
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The grip is held together with 4 plastic tabs on the sides. Squeezing in the right locations with some wiggling and pulling managed to get them loose without breakage. Alot of the flash accessories seem to be constructed in a similar way with lots of plastic tabs and things held together with stickers and other stuck on covers. I burned out a 4000AF playing with it and there's zero chance of getting into those things without leaving marks. Although maybe that's intentional for something with a giant capacitor inside.
Gonna take a break for now. I'm not good at electronics and i'm not seeing or smelling anything obviously wrong. I'm not even sure if this grip is the problem... I sorta just wanted to look inside it to be honest.
Guess the thing to do next would be to remove the capacitors and try measure them.
Finally put the grip back together after replacing all but the smallest capacitor, since I had plausible replacements on hand for the others, and it seems to work now. My incredible test method is noticing the flash is more intense (with an audible recycling whine) when aiming it to the side than directly ahead, which suggests it's picking up the TTL stuff. I've never had much long-term success with replacing capacitors in stuff though so we'll see how it lasts.
Which capacitors did you replace? Just the electrolytic ones?
Oh, yeah I should've said that. Just the electrolytics.
Small update. I realised the grip rubber didn't have any compound curves so I could just stick a sheet of rubber on and did exactly that.
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The VHB foam tape was just to raise the rubber up a bit.
I had one of the famous AF 28-135mm f4-4.5 lenses arrive today. It came attached to a 7000i which is as boring in person as it looks in photos. The backlight in the LCD is kinda cool, I guess...
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There was stuff wrong with the lens, as usual. Some haze on the inner elements, a weird smudge too, and the front element looks like it'd been dropped onto rocks and has a few chips out of it.
Disassembly was with help of photos from pbase and the service manual on archive.org.
Camera repair guide : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
Camera repair guidearchive.org
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Full of dust under the covers, but also the dust seals seem to have mostly done their job.
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The aperture sits between lenses G8 and G9 in that optical diagram on page 5 of the service manual, and I've no idea how you'd reach it. Fortunately I didn't need to go that deep. But I did spend a bit struggling to get the 4th lens barrel out, the one with elements G12 and G13.
There's archways in the part the manual calls the 'lead groove barrel' for removing the 3 cam rollers holding that element in place. You use the same archways to access another set further down but I didn't need to take this one apart that far. You line them up by messing with the zoom and focus adjustments.
The problem I had was that the archways are only big enough for the screws to come out, but not the rollers around the screws. But because of the old oil between the both, the screws were kinda stuck inside the rollers. It took alot of fiddling and using a screwdriver tip from the inside to push on the little bits of exposed screw threads to get the things to come out far enough. When till stuck to the rollers the tips of the screws were still just in the screw holes and holding things in place.
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The surface of element G11 there on the left was filthy and i've no idea why. G12 opposite it was spotless. Maybe a gravity thing in how it was stored or a degrading coating? It looks like there's some wipe marks on it that weren't from me.
On the right is the opposite side of the aperture, G8, where it looks like some kinda groady wet flake got inside. I cleaned it off before I thought to take a photo but you can see its remaining residues on the metal. I figure it must've sat on the lens for a bit before falling off and sticking to the metal and drying.
After that I reassembled the thing. It seems like it'd be a minor ordeal if you had to reach the aperture for any reason. The service manual isn't super clear on some stuff, I feel.
Well at this point in writing the post I figured I should check the infinity point and found it was way off.
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After some fiddling and confusion, the way it seems to work is that the two halves of the focus mechanism, the focusing ring and the cam tracks, are coupled together with that length of white tape. It had me confused for a bit because I thought maybe something had dropped out that I didn't notice, or i'd reinstalled parts wrong. Load bearing tape seemed a little odd after everything else is made from milled slabs of aluminium at great expense.
But thinking about it, it's really not a bad idea. It seals the inside from dust, it's easy to adjust (you peel the tape off, slide the two halves, and put the tape back on), cheap to replace if needed, and the more normal method with 3 tiny pointed screws tends to be awful (slips easy, leaves gouges and divots, hard to make tiny adjustments since the screws want to re-find their old divots, can come loose with time, easy to damage the tiny screw heads or wear out threads, distorts parts from round to triangular...)
The manual might clearly state it's the tape that mechanically couples the two halves, but I overlooked it if it does.
Also I had to open the lens again because there was another problem i'd either not noticed or caused myself. At longer focal lengths the focus got stuck hunting/ rapidly oscillating, overshooting the focus point. A guy called John in the comments of pbase had the same one, with bent spring contacts in the part of the board that senses the current focal length.
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They're visible from the outside of the assembly, which is fortunate cuz the 2 screws that need removed for it have wax seals on them, so i'd rather not have touched them if I didn't have to. I scratched the outline of the mating part (2553-1382-01, brush connecting plate) to help get it back on in about the same place.
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They were then carefully bent back. That John guy on pbase had his snap off when attempting this so I was being very cautious. I've just realised what might've caused it too - when reassembling and disassembling stuff repeatedly to try figure out earlier problems, the finger of the brush connecting plate mustn't have gone into its matching hole while the screws could still engage and pull the parts together. The brush plate is made from something springy if that is the case.
No idea what would've caused those dents in the gold traces though. But ether way, bending the brushes back finally fixed the lens and now it works fine... I think. I've no digital full frame cameras to really test it, so i'll just have to see if it can do Kodak Colourplus in months old used chemicals justice.
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